Newly broken in xp, well almost

[rotaxrule1]

Guys,

I was able to squeeze in one more ice cold ride to the local lake yesterday. I wanted to finish getting my new motor broken in on my 96 xp. So before yesterday, I had about a half tank of just half throttle or less and variation of throttle. I did the same for the first half of my tank this time to make roughly 10 gallons (well between 8-10 I guess) and gradually bringing up the max throttle.

As soon as I was about half way down on the tank, I did a few quick bursts of full throttle. Man I have never had it pull this hard! I was hitting about 53 in choppy water. My question is this; we were not sure what base gasket was what until after the motor was back together. So there is a small chance it has one that is too thin. From how it pulls, I half wonder if the compression is higher than stock.

Would the static compression test reflect this small of a change? My compression now is 145 mag 150 pto. Also, I was a bit worried because I ran the tank low and it cut out and sputtered on one cyl for a few seconds until I switched to reserve. (I know, got carried away) but it ran fine after, and based on my compression, I don't think I hurt it.

Thanks,

Brandon

 

[Strizzo]

Do the solder test to see if your squish is in spec

 

[racerxxx]

In the manual they show you how to do the solder test for checking the squish, that will tell you how tight or loose your squish is. The tighter the tolerance the tighter the squish, getting you a better bang with the fuel/ignition.

Did you use on OEM base gasket? If so you can look through the jugs and count the holes, that will tell you how thick the base gasket is, although even though you might have a thick gasket that doesn't mean you'll have a loose squish. It should be cc'd to be precise, but the solder will get you close enough.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

 

[rotaxrule1]

Thanks guys, if the squish gap ends up being too small, can I just run premium Fuel or higher octane and be safe? Or does it need to come apart?

Unfortunately I used an aftermarket set, so it came with a few different ones, which was confusing.

 

[racerxxx]

It's too late now but this is why the OEM gasket set makes it nice. When you do the tear down right between the jugs there is a series of holes which correlate to the gasket thickness. You can pretty much just replace the base gasket with the same amount of holes. If not you should measure the thickness where the gasket has not been crushed. Yes if you change the crank or pistons you should always check the squish but the tolerance for proper squish is from .047 - .063. I don't think the stack up of tolerance would take you out of that range with a crank/piston replacement, but not to say that is couldn't. You'll need some fat solder like plumbers solder. Resin core is softer for it crush, but regular old plumbers will work just fine. I think you'll be just fine if your on the lower end, post up what you get.

 

[rotaxrule1]

Thanks again, I'll post up as soon as I can check it.

 

[Strizzo]

Also the manual says no acid core!