braindead89
Member
I've had my share of older ski's and I like to see 150 psi compression and rebuild at 100. Whats normal for the 951 and at what compression should I be thinking rebuild time?
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New to the 951
- Thread starter braindead89
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Carbed 951 will blow 132psi on a good day. Mine now blows 122 and still going, will let you know when it sticks a ring or tosses a rod, kinda think under 120psi is the best time to rebuild but we'll see....
951DI on a good day blows more, about 140psi
Clean the RAVES, refill the counterbalance shaft oil, and do something about the carbs immediately if it hesitates and falls on it's face. My counterbalance reservoir was near empty. Check the exhaust manifold mounting bracket bolts, mine had rattled lose and starboard side bracket fell off into the bilge.
951DI on a good day blows more, about 140psi
Clean the RAVES, refill the counterbalance shaft oil, and do something about the carbs immediately if it hesitates and falls on it's face. My counterbalance reservoir was near empty. Check the exhaust manifold mounting bracket bolts, mine had rattled lose and starboard side bracket fell off into the bilge.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
I see around 120 on my gauges, across 4 skis. all run to 6800-7k WOT.
Be sure to check the accelerator pump. It is common for them to plug up. Also I suggest full fuel system rebuild.
The 951 has a bad reputation but feed it XPS full synthetic oil, fog it after every ride and keep water out of the engine and it should be as good as any other.
The 951 has a bad reputation but feed it XPS full synthetic oil, fog it after every ride and keep water out of the engine and it should be as good as any other.
Jerseyrider60
New Member
I have 120 - 125 PSI on my 951's and all run fine, except the on having the surging issue with but that's not an engine issue.
For oil, the purest will not want to hear this but...I buy and 1 gallon containers of any 2 stroke oil, including store brand, and not synthetic. I open the container and top it off with Marvel Mystery Oil. Usually takes about 1/2 quart, 16 oz, to top it off. Shake to mix and use. I have had 10 or so 951's (GTX, RX, XP, RXX), still have six, and never had an engine issue. Ski's have 100 - 250 hours. I use the same on my Pro-X and 900 snowmobiles and also have never had an issue using my oil mixture. Sleds have up to 400 hours on them.
Maybe I am just lucky
For oil, the purest will not want to hear this but...I buy and 1 gallon containers of any 2 stroke oil, including store brand, and not synthetic. I open the container and top it off with Marvel Mystery Oil. Usually takes about 1/2 quart, 16 oz, to top it off. Shake to mix and use. I have had 10 or so 951's (GTX, RX, XP, RXX), still have six, and never had an engine issue. Ski's have 100 - 250 hours. I use the same on my Pro-X and 900 snowmobiles and also have never had an issue using my oil mixture. Sleds have up to 400 hours on them.
Maybe I am just lucky
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
The "best" oil we used to have years ago was castor bean oil. Didn't take long to realize that stuff once mixed only has a shelf life of about a week. Any longer than that and you're taking big risks.
We had good luck with non-detergent 30wt motor oil mixed 15:1 That is aside from fouled plugs, which happens eventually anyway and really wasn't that bad considering the plume.
My seadoo dines on XPS2, manufacturer oil is worth the price to me given the price of today's powerheads and in this case since I'm out to prove a 951 can go much longer than 250 hours. Secretly I"m hoping to reach 1,000 hours or more but it's taking a long time to prove it.
We had good luck with non-detergent 30wt motor oil mixed 15:1 That is aside from fouled plugs, which happens eventually anyway and really wasn't that bad considering the plume.
My seadoo dines on XPS2, manufacturer oil is worth the price to me given the price of today's powerheads and in this case since I'm out to prove a 951 can go much longer than 250 hours. Secretly I"m hoping to reach 1,000 hours or more but it's taking a long time to prove it.
Jerseyrider60
New Member
The science of the oils would say synthetic or mineral is heavily dependent on how you use the ski.
- The pros of synthetic is it breaks down less at high temperature and leaves less deposits.
- The pros of mineral is that it's lower viscosity coats better.
So
- Synthetic is best for a ski that is used frequently or one that is at WOT most of the time while in use.
- Mineral would be best for a ski that is used infrequently (better coating/rust protection) or while in use not run hard. (does not need viscosity protection)
My cocktail is like a combination of the two. My ski sit mostly, and are not run that hard while in use. But every now in then I will run WOT for 30 - 45 minutes. So I need my oil to act mostly like a mineral but need the synthetic protection every now and then.
One of my RX's had 250 hours on it with no issues.
- The pros of synthetic is it breaks down less at high temperature and leaves less deposits.
- The pros of mineral is that it's lower viscosity coats better.
So
- Synthetic is best for a ski that is used frequently or one that is at WOT most of the time while in use.
- Mineral would be best for a ski that is used infrequently (better coating/rust protection) or while in use not run hard. (does not need viscosity protection)
My cocktail is like a combination of the two. My ski sit mostly, and are not run that hard while in use. But every now in then I will run WOT for 30 - 45 minutes. So I need my oil to act mostly like a mineral but need the synthetic protection every now and then.
One of my RX's had 250 hours on it with no issues.
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