new to me Seadoo XP

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Hello all-

Just purchased a 1997 XP from a old co-worker for $500. It has been sitting in her garage covered for the last 15 years. She and her ex bought it new and used it maybe 8-10 times. It looks brand new but obviously I need to go through it. This is my first PWC but I have owned boats and I am not new to wrenching on things. I plan on reading and searching this forum to catch up and welcome any suggestions. I plan on doing the follow before trying to fire it up:

1) pull tank, drain and clean
2) replace all fuel lines
3) drain oil and replace
4) replace all filters
5) carb rebuild kit??
6) new battery
7) new spark plugs
The only thing I see that you’re missing is to replace the 3/32” tygon lines from the oil pump to the intake. Also make sure you read the carb rebuild sticky on the forum and follow it to the letter when tackling the carbs.
It has been sitting in her garage covered for the last 15 years.

Wow, great score, concerning it sat that long, your list is good to get it running. But...that long being 15 yrs you could run into rust problems on the bearings and dried up seals. You won't really know how it holds up until you get it running and start putting some hours on it on the water. Before a water test, I'd have a good luck at the wear ring and drain/fill the jet pump while you're at it. Check those 23 yr old orings at the pump to hull plate for the pressure feed and the bailers.
Use only genuine mikuni carb kits. Make sure the fuel vents work properly. Little insects like to plug them up when sitting that long for sure. Also, a couple plastic parts that do get brittle with age, use or not, is going to be your wear ring and the drive shaft coupler dampers. You won’t know if it’s a problem until you use it. Watch for little reddish colored dust/pieces at the carrier bearing and the PTO coupler after you run it the first time. Also, check the rubber straps that hold the oil tank, gas tank and battery.
With the carb rebuilds (which are absolutely necessary), make sure you change your needles and seats. Order a set of JIS screwdriver bits for the carbs. The carbs have a weird Japanese phillips pattern that a regular phillips doesn't fit very well. Use an impact driver to get the bolts loose. You don't want to strip them. Follow the instructions on the carb rebuild thread to a tee.
Thank you for all the good info and feedback. I will definitely get the carb kits and follow the directions on this site.
Does the tank come out easy or can I get the old fuel out without removing? I checked and there is very little gas in it, maybe 1/3 gal. and is there a engine hour ticker on this model or is it too old for that?
Removing the tank from that model will be a job. Everything has to come out to do it. I would just remove the baffle and remove and clean the best I could that way. It is a small access, but take your time. To get to the baffle, loosen the two pivot bolts on the front of the seat being careful not to scratch the hull lift slightly and pivot the seat to one side. Don’t try and undo the suspension in the back, it’s a booger to get back right and a lot more work. Portal to the baffle is under the center of the seat.

The MPEM does keep hours, but you need a MPEM reader to connect to the DESS post to read it.
Very helpful. I'm new to PWC and after reading this feel it could also be used as a base zero plan after buying a used Seadoo.
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