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Maintenance queston...I'm a moron!

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modiddy

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Hey guys..So I have put 20hrs on the engines in my boat since I have gotten it...I bought it with 16 hrs which means I'm at a total of 36 hrs on each engine...I have not done any maintenance to the boat, not even flushing, since I have owned it and I'm not sure what the previous owner has done (i expect the worst).

The main reason this has just now come up is b/c..1..my overheating issue I posted in another thread...and 2..i just downloaded the manual and i was seeing how much maintenance is needed...my question is, being 36 hrs in...what are the main things i should DEF. take care of ASAP.

Thanks.
 
my question is, being 36 hrs in...what are the main things i should DEF. take care of ASAP.

Thanks.

Are you talking about the 1998 boat that's listed in your profile? If so... the maintenance issues recorded for "50 hours" "100 hours" etc should all probably be addressed because the boat is 12 years old.

Or are you talking about a different boat?
 
Are you talking about the 1998 boat that's listed in your profile? If so... the maintenance issues recorded for "50 hours" "100 hours" etc should all probably be addressed because the boat is 12 years old.

Or are you talking about a different boat?

1998 boat in my profile...I don't know if I need to do the 50 and 100 yet, b/c the engines and lines were replaced in 2009. And as for flushout, I take the boat out almost daily (it's docked in the water) so I dunno if I'm ok there also...I will grease the PTO today when I get home
 
And as for flushout, I take the boat out almost daily (it's docked in the water) so I dunno if I'm ok there also...I will grease the PTO today when I get home

Do you use it in saltwater or fresh?

The purpose of flushing the boat is to wash out all of the contaminants from river/lake water (or the corrosive salt from ocean water) that made their way into the exhaust and cooling systems.... its not to simply run more dirty water through it.

If you run in salt water, you should flush it after every time you use it. I run mine in a river so I don't flush too often... but i do turn the engines on and rev them for a few seconds each WITHOUT a hose to expel all of the water that it sucked up (you shouldn't let the water just sit in the boat)

If you haven't cleaned your RAVE valves, i'm sure they could use it by now. Have the carbs been rebuilt? What about fuel/oil filters?
 
Do you use it in saltwater or fresh?

The purpose of flushing the boat is to wash out all of the contaminants from river/lake water (or the corrosive salt from ocean water) that made their way into the exhaust and cooling systems.... its not to simply run more dirty water through it.

If you run in salt water, you should flush it after every time you use it. I run mine in a river so I don't flush too often... but i do turn the engines on and rev them for a few seconds each WITHOUT a hose to expel all of the water that it sucked up (you shouldn't let the water just sit in the boat)

If you haven't cleaned your RAVE valves, i'm sure they could use it by now. Have the carbs been rebuilt? What about fuel/oil filters?

I run the boat in a fresh water lake...not salt water..

I'm not sure what the RAVE valves are so no I have not cleaned those. Are they accessable?

As of 6 weeks ago, the carbs were in good shape when I got the boat checked out when I bought it..that's all I know as far as the carbs go. I'm thinking the carb filters will need to be cleaned though.

Fuel filters I clean out almost weekly.

Oil filter I never have. How do clean the oil filter?
 
I run the boat in a fresh water lake...not salt water..

I'm not sure what the RAVE valves are so no I have not cleaned those. Are they accessable?

As of 6 weeks ago, the carbs were in good shape when I got the boat checked out when I bought it..that's all I know as far as the carbs go. I'm thinking the carb filters will need to be cleaned though.

Fuel filters I clean out almost weekly.

Oil filter I never have. How do clean the oil filter?

The shop manual outlines how to do everything you need to do... it would be a lot easier for you to look it up in there than ask us, because it shows photos and would be more helpful. I'm not trying to be a jerk, I am just saying that because it is very precise and photos are very helpful.

Yes the RAVEs are accessible. You should probably replace their gaskets though. Look at the Engine's Top End section of the shop manual for an explanation of what/where they are. They are exhaust valves (underneath the black/red caps on your engine)
 
The shop manual outlines how to do everything you need to do... it would be a lot easier for you to look it up in there than ask us, because it shows photos and would be more helpful. I'm not trying to be a jerk, I am just saying that because it is very precise and photos are very helpful.

Yes the RAVEs are accessible. You should probably replace their gaskets though. Look at the Engine's Top End section of the shop manual for an explanation of what/where they are. They are exhaust valves (underneath the black/red caps on your engine)

Dude...you're such a jerk :D ...jk...I really appreciate your help. I recall seeing the majority of the stuff in the manual but not the RAVE...I will look for them in the top end section. Thanks!
 
As a minimum, I would flush it ev ery few times you use it to keep the dirt and grime out. The stuff I would do ASAP, install new oil filters. There is 2 and they are like 10 bucks each. Make sure to grease the PTO. Change the pump cone oil. Maybe swap the plugs. That is what I do at the end of every season. So if you dont put it away for the winter, just go ahead and do it now.
 
As a minimum, I would flush it ev ery few times you use it to keep the dirt and grime out. The stuff I would do ASAP, install new oil filters. There is 2 and they are like 10 bucks each. Make sure to grease the PTO. Change the pump cone oil. Maybe swap the plugs. That is what I do at the end of every season. So if you dont put it away for the winter, just go ahead and do it now.

I greased the PTO yesterday...plugs replaced 3 weeks ago...will change oil filters asap....how do I change pump cone oil and what type of oil do I use? Thanks.
 
I greased the PTO yesterday...plugs replaced 3 weeks ago...will change oil filters asap....how do I change pump cone oil and what type of oil do I use? Thanks.

Pull the jet pump, drain the pump cone, add oil, put pump back on... check out the Propulsion chapter of the manual, its under the Jet Pump section

you can use SeaDoo Jet Pump Oil.... or I believe you can use 75W90 gear oil, but do a search to be sure
 
Just to save me from typing it all out, here is a previous post by Karl. Any 75w90 full synthetic gear oil will work. I bought a quart of Mobil 1 at auto zone for 10 bucks. I think the seadoo XPS is close to the same price.

Originally Posted by kustomkarl
Here is some info on the Jet pump oil change;


The pump oil change

If you look into the nozzle in the rear of the ski you will see a cone with 3 screws and an oil filler allen screw.

To change it,
1) Take off 4 13 MM bolts holding nozzle and 10 MM bolt holding steering.

2) Get something to catch the old oil in, drain pan or margarine cup etc.... (don’t forget the nose plugs, the oil stinks to high heaven)

3) Remove the 3 8 mm bolts holding the cone on.

4) Pull the cone and drain the oil out. Prop the front of the trailer up as high as you can to get most of it out.

5) Inspect the rubber “o” ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

6) Lower the front of the ski and add oil** to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

7) Wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. Let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

**NOTE: Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil, or similar same wt.
I hope this helps

Karl
 
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