Loud squealing noise from jet area (newly replaced pump).

[Narcotics]

Hi,

So the past month and a half has been quite an adventure for me... first time working on a JetSki (2012 SeaDoo GTI 155 SE)

So heres the story:
After breaking down at sea and discovering the pump seals had given and the entire pump housing was corroded, I had no choice but to replace the entire pump.
I had a successful disassembly and after the new pump arrived, I installed it.

The new pump:
- Factory new
- Nose cone already on (pre-greased)
- New wear ring (NOTE: Impeller was harder to turn with the new pump in comparison to the old)

I installed all of the components, including the iBR successfully (with some struggle with the iBR being a pain).
Bare in mind I didn't use a torque wrench since I didn't have one available (will probably invest in one later) so all the bolts are in tightly.

After pulling the jetski out of the garage on a trailer to run with (with hose attached) it instantly started to squeal VERY loudly.
After I heard the noise I shut it off instantly but did try it maybe 2 more times but didn't continue and stopped before the motor has even finished turning.
I thought the problem could be the impeller being too tight on the wear ring (the impeller was recycled from the old pump but it is in immaculate condition).
Apart from that, everything functions correctly (iBR) and I was told by a friend who was observing from the back that the impeller was failing to turn (or at least struggling).

Thank you in advance for any advice, I'm scared to run it any longer (to possibly wear down the wear ring a bit (maybe?) for fear of damaging drive components).

tl;dr / summary:
New pump, old impeller, loud squealing noise from jet area, almost positive everything is installed correctly, didn't use torque wrench on bolts/nuts (could it be too tight?), please advise.

Max.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Sea Doos have a "rattle" when out of the water due to no load from the impeller. But I don't think this is your issue based on your description.

I would pull the pump assembly and spin the impeller to see if you can hear or feel a bad bearing. It may have been damaged when reassembled. Also, if the pinch washer is not correct, it can lock the entire pump up. It may be partially pinched.

Did you add synthetic grease to the cone and bearings? I know you said the cone was attached, but did it alrays have the grease in it?

 

[Narcotics]

Thanks for the reply.

I've got 200hrs on the Sea Doo and I run in on a lift (to flush it) after every time I use it so I've heard the rattle.
Today I went out and bought a torque wrench and an extension arm so I could reach the pump bolts (the four attached to the hull) and I loosened them and torqued them to what I believe the the correct setting (16 lb ft).
I plan on taking everything apart again tomorrow to feel the impeller (as suggested). And also to take the nose cone off to see if it was actually greased by the guys who put it together (they said it came pre-greased).

I'm not sure what you mean by a 'pinched washer'. What is that?

Part of the reason I 'broke down' (I actually shut off the engine instead of breaking down because of the horrible sound). So I know exactly what broken bearings sound like so I should be able to check for that quite easily.

A friend was observing the jetski while it was running from behind (from a safe distance of course) with a flashlight and the iBR up. He said when the motor starting turning that the impeller seized (stopped moving) for maybe half a second or so then continued to move (making the squealing noise every-so-often). I'm thinking that the impeller (or something else) might not be aligned and might be cavitating the wear ring? I took a look at the wear ring through all of the mechanisms and there only seemed to be minor scratches so far (i haven't ran the engine for more than 30 seconds total).

Any suggestions are very very welcome.

Thank you.

 

[Coastiejoe]

If the impeller stopped and the motor did not. Then you have an issue. I'm betting the drive shaft spline is bad. Either way, you have to take the pump off to inspect things.

I'll try to find something on the pinch washer for you. Basically, if it is installed wrong it can make the impeller very hard to impossible to turn.

 

[Narcotics]

Solution:

After lots of messing around and sourcing information. (It's a very long story). We concluded that the new pump was faulty (but the fault seemed to be a common problem, as a guy in an SBT store told us). The impeller shaft (267000388) was set too far back when manufactured and therefore when we tightened the impeller, it was too tight against the pump housing (the outer ring that the back of the impeller touches when torqued down). After setting this right (simply by knocking it down a 'hair' with a mallet) it give it enough room to spin.

I have yet to run this in the salt water again. If anything else comes up, I'll probably post it. But that should be it.


Thanks so much for your help anyway. I seemed to just jump from one possible solution to another without them working. It's been too long. Time to ride!

Thanks again

-Max

EDIT: So basically the loud squealing was the impeller rubbing on the pump housing.

 

[mkov608]

Based on your initial post (pump badly corroded), I would image the drive shaft is also badly corroded, correct? It sounds as if you have sheared the splines on the driveshaft.

Also, never take somebody's word that somethings has the correct type or quantity of lubricant it in. Pull the cone and check to see the pump bearing has sufficient grease. Do not over torque those bolts!

 

[Narcotics]

The driveshaft was actually in perfect condition and the splines were as if they'd never been touched. Aren't they made to withstand corrosion? That's what it seems because there were literally only tiny salt/water spots on the shaft.
As for the cone... we did end up taking it off just to check and it needed a little more grease anyhow.
Anyway, don't know if you read above but everything is sorted now!


This was a video we made to show the manufacturer the problem:
https://puu.sh/wbUty/a7624b715d.MOV (clicking this link on a PC will download a 82MB .MOV file)

 

[mkov608]

Sorry about that. Seems I missed that last entry before I replied. Good to hear you figured it out!

As for corrosion; all metals corrode, and that starts immediately after the machining process. Ride you ski in salt water and don't do anything to slow down the driveshaft corrosion; it won't last long. There are things you can do to mitigate the corrosion process, but I have read posts where the driveshaft splines deteriorated to the point where it spun inside the impeller. So the answer to your question is no. They aren't made to withstand corrosion, but they will resist corrosion better than other metals. I ride in near NAS Pensacola often, and after the engine flush I rinse the driveshaft and then hit it with XPS Lube or CRC 656.

 

[Narcotics]

Ah thats interesting.

I do always spray inside the intake grate after riding. Would Yamalube do the same as XPS lube? I have yamalubed the engine to avoid corrosion... I found out a few days ago that seadoos come with an engine cover LOL... since this is my first ski I never knew.

 

[mkov608]

I'm not familiar with that product, but if it's a lubricant for marine applications, you're probably good.