Looking for some advice before starting work on 951 GTX

[vogs77]

I purchased a 1999 GTX and am going to be going through the whole fuel and oil system, looking for a little advise from members with experience on this engine. I have read the carbs can be removed without removing the front section of the exhaust pipe, but I also need to replace the oil lines. All fuel lines, filter, selector switch, and small oil lines will be replaced.
1. Should I remove the front section of the exhaust pipe to do the carb and oil line work for better access to everything?
2. Where can I buy the wrench to get the stupid nut under the pipe, I have read the aftermarket ones suck.
3. Any advice on working on this engine would be great also.

 

[Mraw]

1. You can pull the carbs easy with the pipe in however to replace oil lines and filter with the pipe in is a total pain so I would remove it, make sure to follow the seadoo torque manual pattern and spec when you put it back on

2. For the wrench I bought the SBT one however for whatever reason the studs on two of my skis where to long to fit it in so I used a stubby wrench to start it.

3. I would highly recommend fogging your ski after every use. Just pull the airbox and spray fogging oil until it dies, it is tricky and annoying at first pulling the airbox but after awhile you can fog it in 5 minutes or less

 

[mikidymac]

Once the carbs are out of the way you don't need any special tools for the pipe. And.... never try the pipe without first removing the carbs.

 

[vogs77]

Thanks for the advice guys, just cleaned up the inside with some Purple Power and it cleaned up real nice. Pump is off and ready for an overhaul. Hope to try to remove the carbs in the next few days.

 

[vogs77]

I have everything removed except for the 4 carb bolts and the 2 cables. Do you unbolt the carbs then remove the cables once they are loose or do you remove the throttle and oil cables first. I have the 10mm nuts loose but am struggling with getting them out off of the carbs, just cant see them. Also thinking when I go to put these back on do you assemble the cables onto the carbs and then bolt them back on

 

[Mraw]

Remove the carbs first, then remove cables

 

[Lothsahn]

3. I would highly recommend fogging your ski after every use. Just pull the airbox and spray fogging oil until it dies, it is tricky and annoying at first pulling the airbox but after awhile you can fog it in 5 minutes or less

I'm about to winterize mine. You pull the airbox cover and spray fogging oil while the seadoo is idling on the trailer until it dies? Is that better than just pulling plugs and spraying fogging oil, then hitting the starter a couple times?

 

[vogs77]

Carbs out, small oil lines replace tonight. Drained oil tank and ordered all parts from OSD tonight to get this ready for next year.

Fuel system was completely dry for some reason. Tank is full of old gas I need to get out still. Hope once all new parts are installed it will pull in some fuel.

 

[vogs77]

Do I need 1/4 or 5/16 fuel lines for this ski.

 

[MoDawg73]

Do I need 1/4 or 5/16 fuel lines for this ski.

If my memory serves, you need both. If you search on here you can find exact amounts but it is mostly 5/16ths with a little 1/4. About 25’ of 5/16ths and about 6’ of 1/4 for fuel lines. (This is from memory, could be off a little)

Also, I fog mine every use. You can drill two holes in the air box and use tygon with a T fitting to fog without removing the air box. It take 30 seconds for me to fog it.

I can take some pix about my fogging setup if you would like.

Ken

 

[vogs77]

That would be great, thx Ken.

Next question, is there an access to change the balance shift oil, where is it if there is. I was looking around a bit but didn't see anything.

 

[MoDawg73]

 

[vogs77]

Thx. I like that idea

 

[MoDawg73]

I'm about to winterize mine. You pull the airbox cover and spray fogging oil while the seadoo is idling on the trailer until it dies? Is that better than just pulling plugs and spraying fogging oil, then hitting the starter a couple times?

I have read that spraying into the spark plug holes will only protect the cylinders. That leaves the lower end unprotected. It is better to spray it into the carbs so it will lube the lower end and the cylinder!

 

[mikidymac]

I have read that spraying into the spark plug holes will only protect the cylinders. That leaves the lower end unprotected. It is better to spray it into the carbs so it will lube the lower end and the cylinder!

This is correct. You want to lubricate the crank as well as the cylinders.