Looking at 1996 seadoo speedster

[Murder after Midnight]

I'm looking at one for about 3k, I'm told it's mechiancally sound and there are no issues, it's a local powersports dealership, the interior is rough, they said they might be open to to dropping the price a bit. what buying advice do you guys have, anything to look out for? it includes the trailer, but that's about it.

 

[USAF_Pride]

IMO, $3k is a little high if the interior needs replacing. AND, because it is a dealer, bring a compression tester and test the engine on your own. Make an unannounced visit so they can't "mess" with the engine.

Do the normal checking to make sure it is really "mechanically sound" yourself. Do not trust anyone!!

 

[Bonmotwang]

I bought a seadoo sportser last year without doing compression test. and it turned out to be 110PSI this spring when I finally did it.
It cost your $30 for a kit, and 180 seconds to get the result.

You can do it when it is on trailer. Open the engine cover, unplug the spark plug cables, unscrew the spark plugs (you may need to borrow a tool from the dealer), check the fuel valve is off, push the throttle to max, screw on the compression kit, turn on the battery switch, put on the key, press the start/stop button to crank the engine for about 10 seconds, the reading on the gauge is your compression reading.
Then switch the compression kit to the other hole.

So do it even you've never heard of "compression test". If they are lower than 120PSI, you got a red flag raised, and come back to the forum for more help.

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

Yea I agree I paid a little over 3k for my 95 speedster and back then I was unaware of compression testing and ended up having to rebuild both motors because of it so most defiantly compression test before you buy!! It's such an easy test to perform that Im kicking myself for not doing it and trusting the seller but hey live and learn.I would try and Talk them down to 2k if compression checks out because you can expect to be putting at least a grand into getting everything the way you want it.

 

[Murder after Midnight]

Yea I agree I paid a little over 3k for my 95 speedster and back then I was unaware of compression testing and ended up having to rebuild both motors because of it so most defiantly compression test before you buy!! It's such an easy test to perform that Im kicking myself for not doing it and trusting the seller but hey live and learn.I would try and Talk them down to 2k if compression checks out because you can expect to be putting at least a grand into getting everything the way you want it.

Where can i get the compression kit guys?

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

You can rent them at any local auto store or you can buy a snap on or Mac but they are expensive harbor freight has them for around $30.00 but their hit or miss I had to take one back after it gave weird compression results I always test my harbor freight tester against my freinds calibrated snap on and it's dead on but I try and use his snap first if he's not using it.It all depends on how much you want to spend. But a quality compression tester is always the best way to go. I would prob just rent one if your just boat shopping.


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[USAF_Pride]

There are several things to check out on these boats; the engine compression being #1 on that list. A new motor has 150PSI in each cylinder. Anything lower than 130 means a new motor at about $1,000 (DIY). Other things to check:
1. Wear ring around impeller - the gap should be less than the thickness of a dime. Anything more and the wear rings need to be changed.
2. Throttle and steering cables should move freely. If they don't, it will be an expensive fix, IF you can find the parts.
3. Structural soundness of hull - crawl under the boat and look it over. Feel for soft spots in the gel coat.
4. INSIST on taking the boat for a water test (at least 30 minutes). Many on here have not done that, only to find out they should have.
5. Check the boat for leaks. We are seeing the exhaust gaskets are starting to go bad and they have discontinued the part (although there are other options).
6. Don't forget to give the trailer a good look. The bunks should not be sagging and should have good carpet on them. Check the wheel bearings (hopefully they have bearing buddies on), winch, tread wear, and lights.

Take some pictures of the interior and exterior of the boat and post them on here and we can let you know what the cosmetic appearance is going to cost you to fix up.

 

[Murder after Midnight]

You can rent them at any local auto store or you can buy a snap on or Mac but they are expensive harbor freight has them for around $30.00 but their hit or miss I had to take one back after it gave weird compression results I always test my harbor freight tester against my freinds calibrated snap on and it's dead on but I try and use his snap first if he's not using it.It all depends on how much you want to spend. But a quality compression tester is always the best way to go. I would prob just rent one if your just boat shopping.


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There are several things to check out on these boats; the engine compression being #1 on that list. A new motor has 150PSI in each cylinder. Anything lower than 130 means a new motor at about $1,000 (DIY). Other things to check:
1. Wear ring around impeller - the gap should be less than the thickness of a dime. Anything more and the wear rings need to be changed.
2. Throttle and steering cables should move freely. If they don't, it will be an expensive fix, IF you can find the parts.
3. Structural soundness of hull - crawl under the boat and look it over. Feel for soft spots in the gel coat.
4. INSIST on taking the boat for a water test (at least 30 minutes). Many on here have not done that, only to find out they should have.
5. Check the boat for leaks. We are seeing the exhaust gaskets are starting to go bad and they have discontinued the part (although there are other options).
6. Don't forget to give the trailer a good look. The bunks should not be sagging and should have good carpet on them. Check the wheel bearings (hopefully they have bearing buddies on), winch, tread wear, and lights.

Take some pictures of the interior and exterior of the boat and post them on here and we can let you know what the cosmetic appearance is going to cost you to fix up.

Where in MI are you guys located?

 

[Murder after Midnight]

You can rent them at any local auto store or you can buy a snap on or Mac but they are expensive harbor freight has them for around $30.00 but their hit or miss I had to take one back after it gave weird compression results I always test my harbor freight tester against my freinds calibrated snap on and it's dead on but I try and use his snap first if he's not using it.It all depends on how much you want to spend. But a quality compression tester is always the best way to go. I would prob just rent one if your just boat shopping.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

There are several things to check out on these boats; the engine compression being #1 on that list. A new motor has 150PSI in each cylinder. Anything lower than 130 means a new motor at about $1,000 (DIY). Other things to check:
1. Wear ring around impeller - the gap should be less than the thickness of a dime. Anything more and the wear rings need to be changed.
2. Throttle and steering cables should move freely. If they don't, it will be an expensive fix, IF you can find the parts.
3. Structural soundness of hull - crawl under the boat and look it over. Feel for soft spots in the gel coat.
4. INSIST on taking the boat for a water test (at least 30 minutes). Many on here have not done that, only to find out they should have.
5. Check the boat for leaks. We are seeing the exhaust gaskets are starting to go bad and they have discontinued the part (although there are other options).
6. Don't forget to give the trailer a good look. The bunks should not be sagging and should have good carpet on them. Check the wheel bearings (hopefully they have bearing buddies on), winch, tread wear, and lights.

Take some pictures of the interior and exterior of the boat and post them on here and we can let you know what the cosmetic appearance is going to cost you to fix up.

pm's sent..........

 

[A B Able Truck]

Forward/Rev shifter - be sure it doesn't have stress cracks at the base of the handle
($700 + if you can find one)

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

Where in MI are you guys located?

I'm in Dundee Mi

 

[USAF_Pride]

Where in MI are you guys located?

Near Grand Rapids

 

[USAF_Pride]

He sent me a link to the site (because he didn't want someone to snake the boat from under him) and here are some of the non-identifying pictures.

Seats definitely need to be redone, but gel coat does look shiny. One concern for me is the registration is from 2011.

 

[Murder after Midnight]

He sent me a link to the site (because he didn't want someone to snake the boat from under him) and here are some of the non-identifying pictures.

Seats definitely need to be redone, but gel coat does look shiny. One concern for me is the registration is from 2011.View attachment 25003View attachment 25004

how much is it usually to restore the interior? if the engine checks out based on the pics....how much would you offer?

 

[Murder after Midnight]

Near Grand Rapids

yeah i'm in detroit.....thought you guys might be closer, but no worries.......

 

[USAF_Pride]

Check out the link at the top of the forum for DIY instructions.

~$400
http://www.seadooupholstery.com/



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[USAF_Pride]

Here is one for comparison. Twin motors. IMO, slightly over priced

 

[scrappydoo]

I have a 1996 Seadoo speedster twin 717 is it hard to rebuild the drive line seal its leaking in boat when not running any help would be great


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[utah997]

Yea I agree I paid a little over 3k for my 95 speedster and back then I was unaware of compression testing and ended up having to rebuild both motors because of it so most defiantly compression test before you buy!! It's such an easy test to perform that Im kicking myself for not doing it and trusting the seller but hey live and learn.I would try and Talk them down to 2k if compression checks out because you can expect to be putting at least a grand into getting everything the way you want it.

Just out of curiosity, how much was the rebuild for both engines? 1k?

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

Just out of curiosity, how much was the rebuild for both engines? 1k?

I sent one out to ses but that was before I decided to tackle they other one myself from what I can remember I think I paid around $700.00 for the motor that ses built and while I waited on that to get done I started working on the second motor myself getting a rebuilt crank$300.00 and a top end done by full boar for $300.00 with a gasket kit and two re machined rotary covers I had another $250.00 in it so all together around $1500 give or take.


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[utah997]

I sent one out to ses but that was before I decided to tackle they other one myself from what I can remember I think I paid around $700.00 for the motor that ses built and while I waited on that to get done I started working on the second motor myself getting a rebuilt crank$300.00 and a top end done by full boar for $300.00 with a gasket kit and two re machined rotary covers I had another $250.00 in it so all together around $1500 give or take.


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That's not bad at all. How many hours are these engines usually good for? (mine will probably be less than the average bear, I like to run at WOT a lot)

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

That's not bad at all. How many hours are these engines usually good for? (mine will probably be less than the average bear, I like to run at WOT a lot)

Well I'm no expert but if I had to guess between 200 and 500 hours depending on how well its maintained but I could be wrong


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