Leaking oil tank

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Making sure I fully understand, you can't get a hand on either fitting end where it meets the oil tank and the injection pump? I guess you have no alternative, might as well start ripping the ski apart...

Next step is to remove as much of the oil in the tank as possible so it doesn’t add to what’s already in the bilge. I might be able to disconnect the line from the tank to the filter in order to remove the tank but concerned I can get it reconnected securely after repairing or replacing the tank given the limited access. Concern also for how to burp air that might get in the line in the process. Seems odd that this is such a challenge given so many have repaired or replaced these tanks without commenting on limited access. Perhaps unique to this model, RXDI?
 
Not much room on that model. As much as I hate to suggest it removing the pipe might be your only option.
 
No success so far. The lack of access to the area in front of the motor and just aft of the gas tank also prevents replacing the oil filter. Looks like removal of a section of the exhaust (which requires a special Sea-Doo tool!) could provide access. Ugh!

All those oil tanks are poor quality, so I have had to replace and weld all of mine more than once. Even new tanks have cracked in less than 2 years so I welded them. I use my hot air solder rework station ($60) to heat HDPE 1/8" welding "rod", but I like the inventiveness of lighting HDPE tubing strips (cool). I hope the burning doesn't change the plastic much.

I access the oil line connection to the oil metering "pump" through the hole where the glove box is installed. A long arm is helpful along with the ability to feel and work "in the blind". I clamp the hose, then remove the oetiker clamp and pull the whole tank/hose assembly out to the front. You can fairly easily maneuver it past fuel lines etc.. If you disconnect the oil fill tube at the top then a full oil tank can be removed without loss. Obviously it is easy to then check or replace the oil filter. I also install a plastic quick-connect (used for fuel lines) just downstream of the filter, so the tank is easier to remove/install next time. The hard part is reinstalling the oetiker clamp at the oil metering valve, while working at arms length, through the glove box hole, in the blind.

I have stopped replacing oil filters and just check them and gently blow out if needed. Looking through the filter like a telescope you can see it is only a fine screen, so it is high flow and not easily clogged.

If you would rather, you can remove the tuned pipe and have easier access from the back side. The tank still needs to come out forward. The pipe can come out as one piece without splitting it in two, but I thought this method was more of a pain, although it then is pretty easy access.
 
All those oil tanks are poor quality, so I have had to replace and weld all of mine more than once. Even new tanks have cracked in less than 2 years so I welded them. I use my hot air solder rework station ($60) to heat HDPE 1/8" welding "rod", but I like the inventiveness of lighting HDPE tubing strips (cool). I hope the burning doesn't change the plastic much.

I access the oil line connection to the oil metering "pump" through the hole where the glove box is installed. A long arm is helpful along with the ability to feel and work "in the blind". I clamp the hose, then remove the oetiker clamp and pull the whole tank/hose assembly out to the front. You can fairly easily maneuver it past fuel lines etc.. If you disconnect the oil fill tube at the top then a full oil tank can be removed without loss. Obviously it is easy to then check or replace the oil filter. I also install a plastic quick-connect (used for fuel lines) just downstream of the filter, so the tank is easier to remove/install next time. The hard part is reinstalling the oetiker clamp at the oil metering valve, while working at arms length, through the glove box hole, in the blind.

I have stopped replacing oil filters and just check them and gently blow out if needed. Looking through the filter like a telescope you can see it is only a fine screen, so it is high flow and not easily clogged.

If you would rather, you can remove the tuned pipe and have easier access from the back side. The tank still needs to come out forward. The pipe can come out as one piece without splitting it in two, but I thought this method was more of a pain, although it then is pretty easy access.
The path thru the glove box is worth attempting. I stopped when removal of the four darts that hold the two grills that engage the glove box seemed likely to damage them. However, $5 for new darts is better than $50 for the special tool required to remove the tuned pipe if I’m able to do it blind as you have done. No experience with oetiker clamps so that’s new territory for me, especially given the limited access. Would you recommend a particular quick disconnect for the line? Your comment has been very helpful. Thanks!
 
I think the Oetiker clamp used is a 13.3 mm, and are much better than worm-drive hose clamps. They are a lot cheaper from the beverage industry suppliers than BRP. Since it is in a tight area, the full size clamp crimp tool doesn't fit well, but just use a small end cutter pliers to crimp instead. I pre-crimp mine slightly before working in the blind since it makes it easier.

Just Google "plastic quick connect fuel fittings" to see a bunch of barbed fitting options. I believe they are 5/16" barb for that oil line.

Your RX-DI is a bit different than my larger GTX-DI
 
I think the Oetiker clamp used is a 13.3 mm, and are much better than worm-drive hose clamps. They are a lot cheaper from the beverage industry suppliers than BRP. Since it is in a tight area, the full size clamp crimp tool doesn't fit well, but just use a small end cutter pliers to crimp instead. I pre-crimp mine slightly before working in the blind since it makes it easier.

Just Google "plastic quick connect fuel fittings" to see a bunch of barbed fitting options. I believe they are 5/16" barb for that oil line.

Your RX-DI is a bit different than my larger GTX-DI

Tank is out! Incremental access thru the glove box and cutting the line between the tank and filter made it possible. Looks like a quick disconnect should work for reinstallation but replacing the filter could be an even greater challenge.
 
Attempts to repair the tank have been unsuccessful so I’ll be replacing it. Planning to replace the two grommets but hoping to reuse the existing oil level sensor and the elbow fitting on the bottom. How to remove both from the old tank is proving to be a challenge. Any way to do it without damaging either component or further damaging the old tank? Thanks!
 
As miki said. It helps to heat them up a bit so rubber is more pliable and plastic is less brittle. The elbow and sensor are easier to take out of the grommet first instead of trying to pull the grommet out of the tank with those parts still inside the grommet. A little oil makes it easier on re-installation.
 
Thanks guys. Heat did the trick. Both popped out with some mild persuasion after warming up. Replacing the grommet on the sensor looks like the next challenge.
 
Just saw this thread. Glad you got it out.
I have done several of these starting with my own RXDI.
JMTC
I remove the bolts on the tuned pipe at the exhaust manifold along with the two holding brackets. Then loosen the rubber connecting hose at the water box and roll the pipe up enough to get to the oil line. Takes about 15min to 1/2 hour.
While in there I will replace the filter and oil line while waiting on a new tank or repair to the old tank.
I have repaired a couple of these by simply using a soldering iron and melting the joint together followed by water testing for leaks.
Best way to repair is get a 96 or 97 model GTX oil tank as they are seamless and will fit.
Maybe call Westsidepowersports and see if they have a good used one.
 
Jesse - I am interested in your half hour "pipe roll"?
Once you have removed all the attachments mentioned, you don't just remove the pipe?
Is it easier to just "roll" it somehow to gain access?
I can't visualize the roll maneuver (up or down), and how much space you would have.
I have had a tricky time maneuvering the complete pipe both out and in.
 
Just saw this thread. Glad you got it out.
I have done several of these starting with my own RXDI.
JMTC
I remove the bolts on the tuned pipe at the exhaust manifold along with the two holding brackets. Then loosen the rubber connecting hose at the water box and roll the pipe up enough to get to the oil line. Takes about 15min to 1/2 hour.
While in there I will replace the filter and oil line while waiting on a new tank or repair to the old tank.
I have repaired a couple of these by simply using a soldering iron and melting the joint together followed by water testing for leaks.
Best way to repair is get a 96 or 97 model GTX oil tank as they are seamless and will fit.
Maybe call Westsidepowersports and see if they have a good used one.

I have four 8mm hex bolts that attach tuned pipe to the exhaust manifold. Three of the them are accessible. One is hidden on the bottom that requires a $50 special tool. Without moving the tuned pipe, replacement of the filter is totally blind. Even if I could remove the filter, not sure I could replace it! The trade off seems to be leave the filter in (never been replaced - have about 100 hrs on the ski) or buy the tool. Westside has told me they don’t service the RXDI. Maybe that is one of the reasons.
Image1544650195.167743.jpg
 
DooWacka
With the pipe completely loose and the water box pushed back I just work and wiggle the pipe until the manifold connection is raised up enough to get my fat hands in there. Most times I can get it up enough to work both hands in the compartment but, usually one hand through the glove box and one hand between the engine and the now raised pipe.

WMRitter
Stainless hose clamps tend work a little easier than tie wraps for me in tight areas.
You can make your own 15mm wrench from a combination wrench or SBT has them for $16.95. I don’t know who sells them for $50 but they are ripping someone off.
When calling Westsidepowersports just ask Nick if he has a 96 or 97 GTX oil tank. I didn’t mean to call them for service.
I would assemble the hose between the new tank and the new filter before installing the tank. I would not disconnect the hose from the oil pump that way when the tank is slid into place there is only one connection to make in the engine compartment.
Sea-Doo 951 Exhaust Wrench GSX /GTX /XP /LRV /RX /Sport LE 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004
 
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I thought is was just the 1996 GSX that had the one piece oil tank? I could be wrong though.
 
jhjesse

Thanks for the lead on the wrench. Ordered one from SBT.

I have a quick disconnect that I’ll install between tank and filter. Hopefully that will make this process easier if (when?!) the new tank leaks. I would have preferred a seamless tank although mine cracked in four locations at right angles to the seam. Efforts to repair either by plastic welding or generous application of JB Weld have been unsuccessful, maybe due to residual oil contamination.

Thanks again.
 
Noticed some oil coming from under the gas tank on my 2004 seadoo gti le. Pulled the oil tank and this is what I found.(see pic) The blue arrows indicate where the seams are separated and the red shows where the actual leak is. My question is how to fix it. I have seen people plastic weld their seams back together but I had the idea of using some brad binder clips to bring the area back together and then plastic weld between the clips. I thought I might just try the clips first and then see if the tank leaks. The clips exert a good amount of pressure and the wire handles are removable.. You can get them in different sizes. The rest of the tank was tight. Any opinions or other ideas?
 
Next step is to remove as much of the oil in the tank as possible so it doesn’t add to what’s already in the bilge. I might be able to disconnect the line from the tank to the filter in order to remove the tank but concerned I can get it reconnected securely after repairing or replacing the tank given the limited access. Concern also for how to burp air that might get in the line in the process. Seems odd that this is such a challenge given so many have repaired or replaced these tanks without commenting on limited access. Perhaps unique to this model, RXDI?
 
I've seen a guy plastic weld using strips cut from plastic line you use on icemakers. He lit the end of plastic and it burned and melted a bead on the tank seam. Looked pretty good and he says it fused to the tank so I'm thinking about going that route.


I fixed my tank with the icemaker line and plastic welded the whole seam all the way around and then brushed plastic epoxy around the weld. took it out on the river and rode it hard no leaks. lot of work but I couldn't afford to buy a new tank.
 
I fixed my tank with the icemaker line and plastic welded the whole seam all the way around and then brushed plastic epoxy around the weld. took it out on the river and rode it hard no leaks. lot of work but I couldn't afford to buy a new tank.

And thanks to the suggestion from this thread dating back to June this year, the 1/4" poly line (ice maker line) really works. I melted it onto the seam on the tank for my 97' GTX and haven't had a leak yet. Looks like my 96' GSX project it won't be an issue, as the tank is seamless.
 
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jhjesse

Thanks for the lead on the wrench. Ordered one from SBT.

I have a quick disconnect that I’ll install between tank and filter. Hopefully that will make this process easier if (when?!) the new tank leaks. I would have preferred a seamless tank although mine cracked in four locations at right angles to the seam. Efforts to repair either by plastic welding or generous application of JB Weld have been unsuccessful, maybe due to residual oil contamination.

Thanks again.

Received the wrench from SBT. It does not fit! Not enough clearance from the end of the stud to the body of the tuned pipe to use the wrench which is supposed to be designed for this one purpose. Amazing. Should be fun attempting to remove just enough metal to squeeze it in. No clue how Sea-Doo managed to install it.
 
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