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Impeller Replacement Questions????

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Trailbum

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New to the forums here. Been reading up on impeller and wear ring replacement and have a few greenhorn questions.......
I understand I need to put the impeller tool in a vise and place the impeller down onto the tool, then turn the 12MM allen bolt CCW with a breaker bar.... I also read about heating with a torch to ease removal.... Which side do I heat with a torch, the splined side with the impeller tool or the side with the 12mm allen bolt???? Or am I heating just the 12mm allen bolt???
I also see where it's recommended to use blue loctite on the new impeller..... Does the loctite get applied to the impeller splines or the threads of the 12mm allen bolt????
Sorry for the newbie questions.... Once I do this the first time, it'll probably seem easy!!
It's on a 2008 GTI SE155 (4-TEC). I just ordered a refurbished impeller and new wear ring from SBT. I also ordered a Solas WR-011 Impeller Tool... which I HOPE is the correct one!!!
Thanks in advance!!!
Bill
 
I have never had to use heat yet in order to remove impeller. Try removing it without it first. Apply heat to the spline side of the impeller if you must. Apply a small amount of blue loctite (NEVER RED) to the threads of the 12 mm allen bolt before you install the impeller.
GOOD LUCK
 
I wouldn't heat that thing anywhere... you'd run the risk of damaging the bearing pack seal in the pump, which is right behind the impeller!

The instructions which came with my Solas impeller said to put anti-seize on the allen bolt threads, NOT loctite. As I understand it, the direction of rotation of the engine drive shaft actually tries to tighten the impeller on the bolt such that it cannot come loose on it's own.

Here's what I did though... go to Sears, get a 12 mm allen wrench (only place I could find one that big.... all auto parts stores stopped at 10mm), get a 1/2" drive 12 mm socket, and a 1/2 inch break-over bar, go back home and use a Dremel rotary tool (or air cut off tool) with a cut-off disk and cut off a straight section of the allen wrench about 2 inches long (takes maybe a minute). Now with the 1/2" break-over bar, the 12 mm socket and the 2 inch long piece of 12 mm allen wrench you have a much easier tool to take that allen bolt loose! It was EASY even though mine's bolt was definitely tight tight tight!

Finally, if you're like me and don't have a big solidly anchored down vise, get an extra draw-bar for your vehicle (~$20 at Walmart) and get a muffler shop to weld the impeller tool right over the draw-bar ball hole (slip 'em a $5, it only takes them a few seconds to weld it onto the draw bar with their mig welder). Now you can put this modified tool into your vehicle's hitch, pop the pump onto the impeller tool, and it's anchored rock solid to your vehicle and will not move!

This made breaking that allen bolt loose oh so easy for me!!!!

Regards!

- Michael
 
Thanks for the replies and the tips!!!
I replaced the impeller and wear ring last night and was surprised at how EASY it really was!!!
I have a 1/2" drive, 12MM allen socket and was able to remove the impeller bolt with a breaker bar (no torch required).
The old wear ring slipped right out when I removed the screws from it.
I used anti-seize compound on the 12MM bolt when I reinstalled the impeller.
Finished well after dark, so the test ride will have to wait until after work today!!!
Also wanted to mention that I got a "refurbished" impeller from SBT for $60 and it looked as good as a NEW one!!!!
Thanks again!!!
 
Thanks again, dropped it in the water and it ran like a "Raped Ape!!!" Good strong acceleration and hit top speed of 56 MPH... Good as new!!!!
 
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