Impeller install question

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Seadoonoober

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I tore everything down to do a impeller install and was surprised that no pump oil came out when I removed the cone.

So now I am like :eek: and wondering if my pump bearings need to be replaced. I had someone install a new wear ring last season and it's hardly been used since then.

What I am wondering is two things, at least. First where did the pump oil go and secondly how do I know if the bearings are shot? The shaft doesn't have any play but I don't know how easy it should be to spin with my hands. Should I pull the bearings and inspect and how do I get past that clamp that has the two holes? Clearly I need some removal tool for that.

Also I just noticed that some of the black fins in the jet pump housing have chunks broken off of them. Sigh.
 
Just scoop out the water impregnated stuff....light brown looking...and replace with marine grade grease...same stuff you put in your trailer bearings...or should.

Now...about those damaged fins...post a pic?

You will need a prop removal tool..get the long one for your model..and you'll need a 12mm(I believe) allen socket. Those will allow you to remove the prop.
 
Just scoop out the water impregnated stuff....light brown looking...and replace with marine grade grease...same stuff you put in your trailer bearings...or should.

Now...about those damaged fins...post a pic?

You will need a prop removal tool..get the long one for your model..and you'll need a 12mm(I believe) allen socket. Those will allow you to remove the prop.

So here is what confused me. I was reading this pump oil write up and it says in like step 3 that when you remove the cone oil should come out or you have a problem.

http://www.angelfire.com/oh/theboatguy/oilrep.html

But mine like you said was full of marine grease which I am thinking is correct. I am still trying to figure out how to change the actual gear oil in the pump. Also how easily should the shaft turn? I can turn it with my fingers but I can't just spin it or anything.
 
The pump oil is for the older style pumps. Look at your cone if it doesnt have a little allen head screw on the side to fill with oil then you have the newer style which only takes the marine grease. Its alot easier this way anyways.
 
The pump oil is for the older style pumps. Look at your cone if it doesnt have a little allen head screw on the side to fill with oil then you have the newer style which only takes the marine grease. Its alot easier this way anyways.

Yeah there is nothing like that one the cone. Awesome info. Thanks!!! so Basically I don't need the 75W90 synthetic oil at all.

I was looking at the parts breakdown on seadoowearhouse and it seems that I just need to fill the cone and impeller boot with grease. Although the impeller boot called for synthetic in the drawing.
 
Yes sir. Just make sure its a marine grade grease so it doesnt break down with exposure to moist environment
 
So i got everything installed and took her out on the lake today. New Solas impeller, perfect looking wear ring and she's still having a hard time getting on plane and was only hitting like 45 or 47mph. You can hear that it's just spinning the prop at times when trying to plane out I guess cavitating or I really don't know what.

I am not sure what to check now. I notice that someone said if you don't put loctite on the outside of the wear ring it can slip. Could this possibly be causing the problem? I didn't install it I had someone install it last year. Any other ideas of what I can check?
 
At the risk of pirating, I'm in for at least one post...

What exactly did YOU install besides the Solas?.... And could you share what the pitch is on that new prop?....Was the pump housing replaced?...Small issues can create magnified negative performance results....I'm pretty sure the fins (or whats left of them) in your pump housing have something to do with your problem....so I would start there. IMO

Good Luck to Ya
 
Just the Solas Concorde 11/19. Yeah I am going to go inspect everything really well and find a new pump housing to replace the damaged one.
 
chipped or broken fins on the impeller housing typically don't cause cavitation and normally show no or very little change in any performance. this is actually very common, most skis I see have these chips from rocks getting shot through them.

cavition is caused by sucking air, either from your carbon ring seal or the ride plate/shoe area or somthing stuck in front of the impeller that disrupts flow.

that impeller should work well and you should see quick acceleration and a top speed around 60mph.
 
Thanks for verifying what i was thinking. I reasoned that since the vanes are after the impeller they can not be the source of the cavitation so I began to expect the seal ring or something. Do I need to replace the seal ring each time pull the pump housing? What do you mean by 'carbon' seal ring. I though it's a rubber seal ring. I mean between the pump housing and the ski.
 
carbon ring seal is where the driveshaft goes through the hull.

you don't need to replace the rubber pump seal.
 
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