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I'm thinking of removing the engine, what to change on it to avoid oil leaks?

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brobertov8

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Looks like I have leaks on the rear of the engine.
Don´t know where yet... could be just a SC problem or anything else...

If I remove the engine, which parts should I change (on PTO cover) to avoid any oil leaks there??

Thanks
 
I believe ì´ve found the leak. This clamps in red it´s not tight, acctually it´s clearly loose.

Could be the reason of that amount of leaking? Does this boot and clamps have any funciton to "seal" the engine oil?

Thanks

image (15).jpg
 
Yes, that seals the boot to the driveshaft bearing seal which is also a common oil leak.
 
Yes, that seals the boot to the driveshaft bearing seal which is also a common oil leak.

Thanks, I will check all that clamps and hope to stop the leak.

Acctually since I´ve removed the SC, i'm thinking on remove pump and change the wear ring, and also remove the drive shaft to check the bearing seal. Do you know if I can inspect it as it is installed?

Thanks
 
difficult to check when it is out. just make sure clamp is tight and run it. make sure it is very clean and dry, then if it leaks, you'll be able to put your fingers under it and get some oil on your fingers to confirm.

I have never seen that clamp come loose, they are normally oetiker clamps. however, I have seen that bearing seal leak many times.
 
difficult to check when it is out. just make sure clamp is tight and run it. make sure it is very clean and dry, then if it leaks, you'll be able to put your fingers under it and get some oil on your fingers to confirm.

I have never seen that clamp come loose, they are normally oetiker clamps. however, I have seen that bearing seal leak many times.

Many thanks for the tips! Very Useful and Important!
I will do that this weekend.

If I detect some leak in the bearing seal, do you know if I can change it in place, without remove the engine?

Thank You
 
you don't remove the engine. just remove pump and driveshaft. pretty simple fix.

Skidoo, I need your help (again) please.

Atfer remove the pump, what should I do to remove the driveshaft? It will comes out easy or do I have to release some lock?

I remove the four clamps in the image i´ve attached on this post, and I was thinking there was a clamp not tight, but I was wrong. All for were goor tight and the clearance or the gap it is on the bearing under the clamp. I will buy a new one and a new seal and will replace them.

Please see attachment, would be this part which I have to replace, correct??

kit-mancal-ponta-do-virabrequim-sea-doo-4tec-15764-MLB20107554499_062014-O.jpg

Thanks
 
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you are only replacing the bearing seal, not the black rubber part. in the image, you can see a silver ring under the flap which is the bearing seal.

to remove driveshaft, push back collar(wiggle, twist, and push, still may take 2 hands on it) and remove c-clip from shaft. remove pump, then have someone pull backward on driveshaft while you gently tap on the bearing seal with a brass punch. the driveshaft will then release and come out. remove clamp and bearing seal will come right out.
 
you are only replacing the bearing seal, not the black rubber part. in the image, you can see a silver ring under the flap which is the bearing seal.

to remove driveshaft, push back collar(wiggle, twist, and push, still may take 2 hands on it) and remove c-clip from shaft. remove pump, then have someone pull backward on driveshaft while you gently tap on the bearing seal with a brass punch. the driveshaft will then release and come out. remove clamp and bearing seal will come right out.

Skidoo, I need your help once again, please.

Please look the image attached:
image (21).jpeg

Both rubbers (1 and 2) are very hard to move on any direction. Please, which one is the cover of the "C-CLIP"??
Any tip to move these rubbers away?

Is that part on blue arrow the carbon seal?? It will move if I force it?

Thank You!
 
You don't move the "rubbers" away

The blue arrow is the collar, this part needs pushed back to expose the c-clip that you need to remove that is snapped into a groove in the driveshaft. The pump should be installed or the driveshaft will move backwards with it. The carbon seal is directly behind the collar clamped to the bellows(rubber #2 in your pic). I can tell from your pic that the bearing seal is not pushed far enough forward and will leak. There is a tell tale groove that should be exposed. Please read the service manual that can be downloaded for free if you google it.
 
You don't move the "rubbers" away

The blue arrow is the collar, this part needs pushed back to expose the c-clip that you need to remove that is snapped into a groove in the driveshaft. The pump should be installed or the driveshaft will move backwards with it. The carbon seal is directly behind the collar clamped to the bellows(rubber #2 in your pic). I can tell from your pic that the bearing seal is not pushed far enough forward and will leak. There is a tell tale groove that should be exposed. Please read the service manual that can be downloaded for free if you google it.

Thanks for you prompt reply and the tips.

I could not move the collar, I will try again,
 
Please read the service manual that can be downloaded for free if you google it.

Thank You also for this suggestion about the manual!

Now I got the correct parts names.

I´ve saw they recomend a tool to push back the collar. (image below)

drive.jpg


Could you remove it by hand using that way you explained?? (push back collar(wiggle, twist, and push, still may take 2 hands on it))

thanks
 
you don't need the tool, the way I explained will work fine. it will be difficult to move as they are kind of stuck in place but once you get it to twist, it will also push back. you can also pry gently with a long 2x4 piece of wood may help.

you will not need any of the seadoo recommended tools for removing the bearing seal, while they are helpful, they are not absolutely necessary.
 
you don't need the tool, the way I explained will work fine. it will be difficult to move as they are kind of stuck in place but once you get it to twist, it will also push back. you can also pry gently with a long 2x4 piece of wood may help.

you will not need any of the seadoo recommended tools for removing the bearing seal, while they are helpful, they are not absolutely necessary.

Ski Doo, I removed the drive shaft successfully!

Just had to build a tool to hold the shaft in place, because even with the pump installed, the shaft was moving a little bit when I was trying to push down the collar.

Please see the images attached, I just have two more questions:

image (22).jpegimage (23).jpegimage (24).jpegimage (25).jpegimage (26).jpegimage (27).jpegimage (28).jpegimage (29).jpegWP_20140704_005.jpgWP_20140704_008.jpgWP_20140704_010.jpgWP_20140704_011.jpgWP_20140704_013.jpg

1. As you can see, the bearing seal on the engine side is "broken". How can I remove it from engine, to install the newone, without damage anything on the engine?

2. It´s normal this gap between the carbon seal and the shaft? It is enormous! But I believe which makes the "water seal" is the colar against the carbon seal. Am I right?

Just in case you also know the answer, the wear ring looks ok regarding the clearance.... but I don´t know if it is normal: Gap is less than 0.10 from one side and more than 0.40 on the other side, on each "spades" of the propeler. And yes, I have some cavitation on this ski.

Thank You Very Much!
 
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1. The broken seal should pull out by just pulling on it, make sure to get all pieces of it out. To install new seal, coat with oil and slightly bend and press into place.

2. Yes, the carbon seal to the collar make the water tight seal from lake water. The bellows applies constant pressure to maintain this seal.

Gap can be a little unequal which is pretty normal. As long as the gap is less than .7mm, you will be fine. However, those deep grooves in your wear ring are not good and a sign you sucked up rocks or some other debris.
 
1. The broken seal should pull out by just pulling on it, make sure to get all pieces of it out. To install new seal, coat with oil and slightly bend and press into place.

2. Yes, the carbon seal to the collar make the water tight seal from lake water. The bellows applies constant pressure to maintain this seal.

Gap can be a little unequal which is pretty normal. As long as the gap is less than .7mm, you will be fine. However, those deep grooves in your wear ring are not good and a sign you sucked up rocks or some other debris.

I will try to remove the broken seal from the engine now. Looks like it is "locked". I will try to use gently a screwdriver.

This wear ring came this way from the previous owner. So I believe these deep groves are the reason for some cavitation draging from zero. I bought one new, just waiting to arrive.
I will try put it on the refrigerator to see if the old one come out by hand.

Thanks a lot!
 
1. The broken seal should pull out by just pulling on it, make sure to get all pieces of it out. To install new seal, coat with oil and slightly bend and press into place.

Can I do this to remove that seal (picture attached)?

foto (1).JPG

Just asking to avoid make things worse on the crank.



Thank you!
 
1. The broken seal should pull out by just pulling on it, make sure to get all pieces of it out. To install new seal, coat with oil and slightly bend and press into place.

I removed, it´s just a rubber. I was thinking I had to removed the entire piece. But now it´s ok!

Thank You for all tips and attention you provided!
 
I removed, it´s just a rubber. I was thinking I had to removed the entire piece. But now it´s ok!

Thank You for all tips and attention you provided!

I could not find these two orings. If someone knows about them, please, where can I find them?

driveshaft.jpg

The only oring i´ve see on drive shaft are the two inside the collar.

Thanks for any help.
 
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