IBR Not Working and no Fault Codes
- Thread starter Fallslake
- Start date
- Status
Hi Fallslake and those of you that have replaced the motor on these actuators...,
I just replaced the motor on my iBR actuator on my 2017 Wake 155. The whole thing was caused by one of the motor brushes that broke internally and of course the motor died. I bought a new motor and installed it but don't want to put everything back together unless i am sure this will work without having to go to the dealer for a "computer reset". I am trying to test it before installing the whole thing back in, but can't seem to be able to get it to extend/retract using the iBR override feature. Can you tell me if there's any tricks to reset the computer/calibrate the movement of the actuator? Do i start with the actuator retracted? extended? or in the mid position? Are there any steps required to perform ? Or should i just install it and test it with everything re-installed? I would have thought that using the over-ride feature I would be able to verify it works OK before sealing everything back up. When i installed it with the actuator in the mid position, using the iBR over-ride feature, i was able to extend it all the way, but then, i couldn't retract it. It goes max extension and will not retract...and at that point i remove the actuator from the boat and open it up to find the motor a little hot. BTW, I can actuate the motor in both directions by hooking it up to a 12 volt battery. It works great, fast and plenty of torque and the actuator extends and retracts perfectly.
What do you think?
Thanks,
OconeeSeaDoo
Ricky
I just replaced the motor on my iBR actuator on my 2017 Wake 155. The whole thing was caused by one of the motor brushes that broke internally and of course the motor died. I bought a new motor and installed it but don't want to put everything back together unless i am sure this will work without having to go to the dealer for a "computer reset". I am trying to test it before installing the whole thing back in, but can't seem to be able to get it to extend/retract using the iBR override feature. Can you tell me if there's any tricks to reset the computer/calibrate the movement of the actuator? Do i start with the actuator retracted? extended? or in the mid position? Are there any steps required to perform ? Or should i just install it and test it with everything re-installed? I would have thought that using the over-ride feature I would be able to verify it works OK before sealing everything back up. When i installed it with the actuator in the mid position, using the iBR over-ride feature, i was able to extend it all the way, but then, i couldn't retract it. It goes max extension and will not retract...and at that point i remove the actuator from the boat and open it up to find the motor a little hot. BTW, I can actuate the motor in both directions by hooking it up to a 12 volt battery. It works great, fast and plenty of torque and the actuator extends and retracts perfectly.
What do you think?
Thanks,
OconeeSeaDoo
Ricky
Did you clean everything thoroughly and re lubricate? Especially the sensor arm, and ensure its correct placement on replacement?
The override has no problem without calibration as long as it was rebuilt according to how it was when disassembled.
It's sensor arm is how the position of the ibr shaft is managed. If that's out of alignment, dirty, or improperly lubricated, it would need more work to get it right.
The iBR system was put back together and thoroughly lubricated with no issues. When i activate the motor using battery power direct to the motor, it extends and retracts with absolutely no issues. The issue is that I am trying to use the iBR over-ride feature to extend/retract and nothing happens. I am able to extend, but it won't retract... I went to a dealer and they suggested to install everything and try it with engine running. They said that if it didn't work, they might need to "re-flash" the computer, but they said that it should work fine without having to do that. If the position sensor has gone bad, then I might have to buy an actuator... I am going to install it tomorrow and give it a shot and see what happens...I will report back
Last edited:
You should not have to go to that extent. If the pack was rebuilt correctly, and the electronics are in good shape, it would perform as expected when using override.
That's also provided you don't have a harness, battery, or other issue.
well... i assembled everything but it didn't work. ....iBR light is flashing...over-ride doesn't move the actuator... as LPO mentioned, maybe there's a problem with the electronics of the iBR or harness...battery is good, it starts the motor perfectly fine and everything else seems to work ok. I'm out of ideas.
the boat has only 51 hours
On my way to the dealer and hope for the best I will report back with the dealer's assessment.
the boat has only 51 hours
On my way to the dealer and hope for the best I will report back with the dealer's assessment.
mrhonnesty99
New Member
Hello thank you for posting this , I have tested the above motor along with 5 diff 775 motors they all move but will not calibrate in fact the ibr mechanism is a whopping 2-3 second slower from full up to down to up again , so yes it moves but it is not the correct motor for the job .
Mike March
Member
So what motor do you need for this?
mrhonnesty99
New Member
I have then in stock and sell them $150 shipped anywhere in the USA , pm me , all the motors listed above all work but are weak and fail the calibration test .
This works perfectly, and peforms better than OEM
High Torque Permanent Magnet DC 12V High Speed 12000 RPM Brush Small DC Motor High Torque Permanent Magnet DC 12V High Speed 12000 RPM Brush Small DC Motor - - Amazon.com
Don't mislead people, just to sell your higher priced parts.
Calibration test fails because sometimes people don't pay attention to the original sensor location when taking apart / putting back together the worm gear assembly. Also, internal lubrication / sealing plays a role in success.
Yes, SOME aftermarket motors won't do the trick, but just read and verify them before placing into service.
mrhonnesty99
New Member
I mean, you're wrong. I have used that exact motor plenty of times, and have had zero failures. Each unit still functions flawlessly, and had no issue with calibration. I can't believe that it's only attributed to Amazing Luck.
mrhonnesty99
New Member
Mike March
Member
Would this be the same motor that would go into the 2013 ibr actuator
jonthegreat
New Member
So you beached it with it still running and left it running? I just wanna make sure I dont do the same thing since i plan on beaching mine frequently
skiasylum
Well-Known Member
The issue with a onshore breeze I believe is the surf washing up sand and debris into the aft end of the ski essentially locking up the IBR gate. As soon as you put the key on the post the gate tries to move to the start position it burns the motor out. Done deal. A simple walk around of the ski before you put the key on the post might have prevented this. Kick the tires light the fires…
@mrhonnesty99 What is the motor you are selling? What is the brand and specs? Where do you source it?
I'll chime in on the motor issue. The one that I used (link in my original post up top) is much slower than the stock motor. I'd say the IBR gate moves at close to half the original speed. It calibrated fine, but I do get an occasional IBR malfunction light occasionally (not nearly as often as before). The sensor is in the correct place and everything was lubed and assembled exactly as it was prior to taking it apart. So, yes, make sure you use a quality motor.
theking549
New Member
I have a 2017 ibr that’s its giving me codes and will stop moving, I opened up and everything looks good and new like yours i Applied power and motor mover in both directions I see no wear, was yours the same ?
Hobbesland
New Member
Hi, guys!! Had the same problem with dead/burnd motor. Found one just like it in a Roybi 18v drill. Added a picture of model. So if you have an old drill/powertool your likely to get lucky. Has to be a tool with brushes in the motor. This one set me back about 50 bucks. So if you cant wait to get one in the mail....works like a charm.
Attachments
- Status
