How to eliminate the oil injection

[carbineone]

Hey everybody,New here and me and my son just bought a 1994 Seadoo SP model and have a question concerning the oil injection.It appears someone may have set it up to premix the fuel in a can but in either case thats what we want to do anyway..I have read maybe that you still have to leave the oil tank in place and keep oil in it to lubricate something in the motor..We had to put the tank back in it as it was removed when we got it so if anyone can tell us how to go about this and hook it up correctly and use premix that would be great...Thanks

 

[carbineone]

Well I did some reading here in the posts and it appears I should keep the injection if possible but I do not know what the last people did as the fuel and oil tank were out of it and I seen two lines that were run together and this did not seem right.I am going to have to figure out how all the lines should be ran from the oil tank.Is there a diagram that would show us this somewhere? Do not want to screw this thing up...Thanks

 

[Bills86e]

On the tank bottom is a large oil line that routes to the lower rotary gear bath nipple under the rotary valve cover, then is pulled thru the
engine by gear bevel action and is pushed out the exhaust side of the engine and dumps into the top of the oil tank, unless someone has
removed the tank, tied the two lines together. NOT a good idea, as a small amount weeps into the crankcase past the crankseals on each
side of the gearbath cavity.
On the tank bottom also is a small oil line that goes to an oil filter, then to the oil injection pump that mechanically mixes the precise amount
per the RPM thru two 3/32" oil lines, one to each cylinder gas-air rotary valve lubrication nipples that introduces the pressured oil into the lower cylinder cases to lubricate the crank bearings, cylinder walls, piston & rings. These two small lines become brittle, or break, so people
MIX, instead of replaceing the lines every two years. If you ever owned a weed-eater, you know they fail after age. MIXING is a PAIN, but
its one or the other. maintain/replace the oil lines every two years OR remove the injection pump and put on a block plate, so the RV gear
will not become damaged by free-wheeling in the bath cavity, clamp off your small oil line that went to the injection pump and then pre-mix your oil/fuel. A down side is if you idle around a lot, the *plugs fowl as being oil rich.

 

[carbineone]

Got it Bills,know where everything goes back in now and have looked in a manual how to bleed the lines so will do that tommorow..Now what concerns us is it appears from what you are saying the last owners ran those two lines out of the bottom of the tank together so nothing was probably getting to the rotary valve I do not think,if I understand this all correctly that is..What are the chances the rotary valve is now damaged if they ran the two lines together for any amount of time? I am not 100 percent certain they ran it this way because as I said the oil tank and fuel tank were both out of it for what reason I do know but these two were hooked together when it was dissaembled,maybe they just did it to keep oil from running out of the lines I hope,I cannot say if they were that way when the machine was together and running or not..I hope it is all OK and we will see after we hook it all back up and get it bleed..

One more question..Is there a way to run these SeaDoos out of the water like in the driveway?I know boats but we are new to these Jetskis..

 

[Bills86e]

Your 94SP has a water hook-up adapter on the waterline coming out of the head on the carb side, part #24:
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/HLSM/Seadoo_OEM/Seadoo_pwc.asp?Type=18&A=17&B=12&Action=O

Connect the garden hose to that, start and idle engine, THEN turn the water on slow to mid strenghth. Insure you greased both
the PTO and Driveshaft Bearing Zerk fittings two pumps. Turn OFF the water, THEN bip the throttle to get most water in the
engine and tuned pipe, and then you can shut engine off. The purpose of bipping a couple times keeps moisture out of the
engines lower cases. Moisture Pressure in pipe, seeping in can rust crank bearings and wrist pins raw surfaces, rust piston walls/rings.

 

[carbineone]

Thanks very much.we appreciate it..

 

[seadooya]

If the 2-lines were connected together, with oil in it, then your rv cavity is ok. You can leave it like that, and start mixing gas, at 40/1.

 

[carbineone]

I thought of that actually too..I know people say you have to either remove the pump gear and put the pump back on or completely remove the pump and use a blocking plate..I would think if they were just ran together with oil in them they would just keep circulating the oil through the power valve and keep it lubed..I am trying to make sure the pump is working right now..I bleed it and to be safe also I put a little PWC oil in the gas just to make sure it is going to pump OK..I will update on the progress later..Right now we have a water leak in the top water jacket cover gasket that sits on top the head,one bad o ring around one plug hole and leaks around the edge..Sealed it all back up so hopefully its OK now,going to test run again later today..Welcome me to the wonderful world of seadoos I guess,should just stick to boats,I know them much better...Thanks

 

[carbineone]

Well,that went good as the head and around the sparkplug are no longer leaking water,thats a huge relief.We only paid 75.00 for the jetski but I am pretty happy so far that we got it running and it even runs very good..Next thing I worried about is when we put it in the water if the seals are going to leak and let water in.

One question further,do these have a bilge pump system built in or should we maybe put one like a boat has? I have no idea how these pumps work in these jetskis,I only know there is not anything in there that looks like my bilge in my boat.Now we need to find a trailer and a couple other small parts,the plastic deal that goes on the steering shaft to hold the steering cable is missing and the clips that hold the air cleaner top on are gone...Thanks again..

 

[seadooya]

look inside the nozzle of the pump, at top. You should see 2-white tubes.

Inside the hull, at the back, around the driveshaft, you should see 2-black square pods. Thats your "bailer" system.

While water is being forced out the nozzle, it creates a "vacuum" affect, thus, sucking any/all water out of the hull, through the bailers.

 

[carbineone]

Seadooya,I see what you are talking about I believe,look like just two littlle black boxes right across from eachother,so do they pump out water good at idle or just higher RPMs? I really appreciate all the help you people here have given us...THANK YOU

 

[Old Drag Racer]

You can go to seadoo.com and download a parts manual for you particular ski and it should show exactly how all the fuel and oil lines are ran.

 

[carbineone]

Thanks,I have a manual already...Just sometimes they are kinda confusing in the pictures.

 

[seadooya]

dump ur in the water ,give ur a run ,and see if anymore water, is in, before you dunked it. If so, then again, it is a boat, you can make the call, if you want a walmart 15 buk bilge. If so, route the exit hole under the grab handle.

 

[carbineone]

Seadooya,I was actually going to ask here in a seperate thread if anyone ever puts a little boat type bilge in their Jestski..I have a spare here from my boat and was just going to hook it up to the battery and run a toggle in the dash to operate it,any reason you cannot do this...Thanks

 

[seadooya]

Seadooya,,any reason you cannot do this...Thanks

Have it done to both my skis...lil assurance, bud.