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Hopefully last question

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Landonhall40

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Just rebuilt 02 GTX DI top and bottom end.
Brand new wear ring.
Seadoo runs great idles great but when you give full throttle it shoots up to 6400 rpm then starts to slowly go down and settles at 6000-6100. So far the only thing I have checked are the rave valves which seem fine. I see a lot of people say if your rectifier isn't working perfect it can cause issues. I hooked volt meter to battery to test but voltage never changes, but it has to be charging considering I have gone through 3 tanks of gas since rebuild and the battery still is charged. Any help is appreciated.
 
Fuel pump and injectors?
I hope you didn’t rebuild it without finding out why the last engine went out.
 
How old is the battery ? It requires AMPs from the charging system and a bad battery will lower the available Amps being supplied from the charging system
To check the amperage you need a DC clamp type meter
It’s easier to put a new battery in or use a buddies one for trouble shooting
 
Just rebuilt 02 GTX DI top and bottom end.
Brand new wear ring.
Seadoo runs great idles great but when you give full throttle it shoots up to 6400 rpm then starts to slowly go down and settles at 6000-6100. So far the only thing I have checked are the rave valves which seem fine. I see a lot of people say if your rectifier isn't working perfect it can cause issues. I hooked volt meter to battery to test but voltage never changes, but it has to be charging considering I have gone through 3 tanks of gas since rebuild and the battery still is charged. Any help is appreciated.

Is the maintenance light on?
 
Rebuild was due to bad piston. It had zero compression. No there is no maitinanace light. It runs great other than it wont get up to 7,000 rpm.
 
But what caused the "bad piston"? Pistons don't just randomly go bad.
Bought the seadoo with "bad psiton" fixed the piston. So you would have to ask previous owner what "made the piston go bad". Good luck with that the dude had 0 mechanical knowledge.
 
I guess what I am trying to say is you need to find the cause of the previous engine damage or it is going to happen again to your fresh engine. On these it's typically the fuel system causing a lean condition that ruins engines.
 
That's why I went ahead and rebuilt the whole motor since I had no history of motor I have fixed 3 others but this is my first 951 (which has been interesting) the motor seems solid the rave valves were in good shape I have checked water regulator it moves freely (no leaks). Just trying to figure out what other people recommend.
 
I guess what I am trying to say is you need to find the cause of the previous engine damage or it is going to happen again to your fresh engine. On these it's typically the fuel system causing a lean condition that ruins engines.
How could I check this.
 
Is the maintenance light on?

The reason I asked if the maintenance light was on is-if the rectifier was bad most likely the maintenance light would be on. Have you checked your fuel pressure? Have you changed the two in-tank filters and the one external in-line fuel filter?
 
The reason I asked if the maintenance light was on is-if the rectifier was bad most likely the maintenance light would be on. Have you checked your fuel pressure? Have you changed the two in-tank filters and the one external in-line fuel filter?
I have seen people recommend fuel pressure but I'm not sure how to go about testing that and what it should be at.
 
It’s been a little while but I’m almost sure the fuel pressure should be 107 psi plus or -2 psi. You need to get yourself a manual you can get the service manual and a parts manual on “Seadoo manuals.net”for free. On your 2002 inside of the storage bin you’ll need to remove the pushpins to remove the access panel to the fuel tank. From there you will be able to test your fuel pressure, change your in-line fuel filter, and change your two in-tank fuel filters. I originally custom ground a pair of pliers to remove the plastic push pins. Later I found out they have a tool at Harbor freight that will do the job just fine and are fairly inexpensive. Also as miki suggested you should send out your fuel injectors and air injectors
to be cleaned. one of the places that does it is called “Southbay fuel injectors.” Also etemplet A member on the forum here found another place to clean fuel injectors and he was very happy with the job.(maybe he will chime in to tell us the name of the business).Especially since before your rebuild you had a siezed piston this would be highly recommended. It’s been recommended not to clean them yourself. If I remember when I get home from work later this afternoon I could take a picture of the pliers that I got from Harbor Freight and my jimmy rig to test the fuel pressure. And the part number of the aftermarket in-line fuel filter. And also while you have the pump out you can let the fuel pump self clean itself by letting it run in a 50-50 mixture of gas/toluene.
 
It’s been a little while but I’m almost sure the fuel pressure should be 107 psi plus or -2 psi. You need to get yourself a manual you can get the service manual and a parts manual on “Seadoo manuals.net”for free. On your 2002 inside of the storage bin you’ll need to remove the pushpins to remove the access panel to the fuel tank. From there you will be able to test your fuel pressure, change your in-line fuel filter, and change your two in-tank fuel filters. I originally custom ground a pair of pliers to remove the plastic push pins. Later I found out they have a tool at Harbor freight that will do the job just fine and are fairly inexpensive. Also as miki suggested you should send out your fuel injectors and air injectors
to be cleaned. one of the places that does it is called “Southbay fuel injectors.” Also etemplet A member on the forum here found another place to clean fuel injectors and he was very happy with the job.(maybe he will chime in to tell us the name of the business).Especially since before your rebuild you had a siezed piston this would be highly recommended. It’s been recommended not to clean them yourself. If I remember when I get home from work later this afternoon I could take a picture of the pliers that I got from Harbor Freight and my jimmy rig to test the fuel pressure. And the part number of the aftermarket in-line fuel filter. And also while you have the pump out you can let the fuel pump self clean itself by letting it run in a 50-50 mixture of gas/toluene.
Okay thanks lot of good info! Yeah I would like to see pictures of how you tested your fuel pressure if you can! Thanks a lot
 
Okay thanks lot of good info! Yeah I would like to see pictures of how you tested your fuel pressure if you can! Thanks a lot

Here’s a picture of the harbor freight pliers that you can use to pull the pushpins out of the access panel. Also the 5/16 inch fuel line disconnect tool you will needIMG_9909.JPGIMG_9906.JPG
 
Here’s several pictures of my fuel pressure testing device. The basic description is: I bought a cheap auto motive fuel pressure testing kit on eBay I don’t remember how much it was maybe 25 bucks and then put a good gauge on it. Mainly the only thing from that kit I used was the black hose with the swivel adapters on the one end that adapts to quarter inch NPT and the push button release on the other end. One end of the tee has the 5/16 inch female quick connect and the other end of the tee has the 5/16 inch male fuel line quick connect. This is just to test fuel pressure not to be used for any long-term. When you take your access panel off you will see two 5/16” I.D fuel hoses. One of the hoses comes from the tank to the in-line fuel filter then to a quick disconnect (this is where you need your 5/16 inch fuel line disconnect tool) then goes to the fuel rail. Disconnect this line at the quick connect and install your fuel pressure test gauge inline. The other 5/16 inch fuel hose is the low pressure return coming from the fuel rail to the tank.IMG_9913.JPGIMG_9912.JPGIMG_9911.JPGIMG_9910.JPG
 
Okay I pulled fuel pump and blew into line that runs to the in line fuel filter and it's near impossible to blow through it put carb cleaner in it and didnt seem to make any difference still seems very restrictive.
 
Okay I pulled fuel pump and blew into line that runs to the in line fuel filter and it's near impossible to blow through it put carb cleaner in it and didnt seem to make any difference still seems very restrictive.

That’s because you’re trying to blow through a closed fuel injector
 
Seems like the issue would be fuel delivery. It can always be that nasty azz computer.

I use fuelinjectorman.com for my injectors he is located in Florida. Dale knows his stuff. I sent him the fuel injectors for my first DI and he contacted me and asked for the air injectors. Said they are more critical than the fuel injectors. I always recommend doing the fuel injectors on any injected ski. I doubt anyone has ever sent them out for cleaning. Just a note, Dale says do not try cleaning the injectors or using any injector cleaning stuff. Says it ruins them Made a point to tell me in his vehicles he uses straight gas or diesel no additives. LOL YMMV.

I think we need a DI thread. There are a few guys on the board with DI's. The Candoo does a lot with the DI. I only just got started. Much to learn but thankfully it isn't all the complicated.

Please keep posting your adventure.
 
I pulled the fuel pump with all the lines there was no injector. Or I am missing something which is very possible. As soon as I feel like I understand these DIs I get reminded I don't

The fuel line that has the fuel filter in it goes to the fuel rail. The fuel injectors are in the fuel rail.
 
If your water control valve is leaking or has a problem it will stop the ski from reaching top speed.. I have heard you lose 400RPM. I found a leak on my wife's ski and it picked up about 150pm.

From the way you describe the problem I"d check the rave system first. If the rave solenoid isn't working properly or you have an air leak... that could cause problems as well.
 
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