Hi i have a 2001 sea doo utopia 185 with the 200 hp v6 no 5 second fuel pump sound and no spark

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Eric pfeffer

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I bought this boat for$ 200 . It sat outside for at least 8 years . I tried to start it and at first when i turned key on fuel pump would run for 5 sec. Then when i cranked it i had spark however i ended up having to take all fuel pumps out and replace with new also cleaned gummed up float ect . Also if i put a bit of gas down intake it would fire up but not run . Cause of the fuel pump problem . I got ecited cause i knew it would run after i fixed fuel problem . YA RIGHT once i put all back together for the first few times i turned key on to prime bowls and lines it would run for 5 sec and click when key was switched off .Then all of a sudden it stopped doing anything when key was turned except it would crank . No pump sound no clicking when turned off . So i replaced ignition switch and same thing notta .excep t if i leave key on after a min or so buzzer comes on and fuel pumps start running for about 2 min then stop and start up again with no spark when i crank . Then if i turn key off while pumps are running they stay on for 30 sec or so but no spark now . Any help on what it might be would be so helpful i have spent hours replacing all interior and wet sanding ect cause i fugured after i got fuel pumps replaced it would fire up .now im loosing interest and patience . HELP
 
I have tried it with switch in and switch out . Should i buy a new lanyard key or switch . It is wierd how everything worked fine untill i put new fuel pumps in and then after a couple of key turns i loose spark and no 5 sec lift pump .
 
Ok i looked at lanyard switch and it is the same thing with switch in or out . When key is turned on no 5 sec fuel pump and no beeps. Also no spark . I get gauges and crank . Then after about a min or two if i leave key on . I get a constant tone and fuel pumps come on for about 11/2 min then stop and come on again .it cranks but no spark .
 
Hmm, were the fuel pumps identical to the originals? Maybe there's a blown fuse since it was fine the 1st couple attempts then operation changed?

I'll re-read the above and get back to you after some thought. Basically though aside from the jet pump, this is essentially identical to an outboard Mercury.
 
Yes fuel pumps are identical and i checked all fuses . Its the wierdest thing like i said before i changed fuel pumps . I would turn key on and lift pump would come on for a few seconds then turn off and it had spark when turned over . But it was not getting any fuel cause float was gummed up and other two fuel pumps were also . So i replaced them and unclogged float . Then got exited lol thinking now it would start . Turned key on and off a few times to prime every thing and then lost 5 sec on off and spark . If i leave key on after a min or so the beeper comes ( continuous tone ) on and pumps start running for about 2 min . Then shut off and repeat . But no spark .
Hmm, were the fuel pumps identical to the originals? Maybe there's a blown fuse since it was fine the 1st couple attempts then operation changed?

I'll re-read the above and get back to you after some thought. Basically though aside from the jet pump, this is essentially identical to an outboard Mercury.

Thank you for your input and time .
 
Hmm, were the fuel pumps identical to the originals? Maybe there's a blown fuse since it was fine the 1st couple attempts then operation changed?

I'll re-read the above and get back to you after some thought. Basically though aside from the jet pump, this is essentially identical to an outboard Mercury.
I have a possible reason but need conformation .
I noticed in service manual . That it said to prime fuel . Turn key on . Is it possible it is stuck in prime mode?
 
The ignition disable or "Stop Circuit" is the black with yellow stripe wire on the two ignition switch boxes (Item 20 and 21 of drawing)Sportjet Warning Module 3.jpg. If this wire is pulled to ground, the ignition system is disabled. Disconnect at motor or measure using ohmeter to isolate if something at the helm such as shifter, ignition switch or lanyard switch is grounding this wire. If you disconnect this wire at the motor and spin it over using the starter, the coils should fire the plugs.
 
Also if you have a fuel pressure tester gauge, you can check the fuel pressure. But need to find reason for no spark on all cylinders so if this black wire with yellow stripe is connected to ground somewhere at the helm or anywhere in the harness, the ignition will be disabled.
 
Hey thank you so much for your time . I am heading over now to check it out now that i know what to look for . I will let you know if it works
 
If your spark doesn't return with this wire disconnected, check all 6 cylinders for spark. We'll work from there. I'm using the outboard manual as reference, there may be slight differences so look for anything that doesn't fit my description and let me know.
 
I have a possible reason but need conformation .
I noticed in service manual . That it said to prime fuel . Turn key on . Is it possible it is stuck in prime mode?
Hi sorry for delay been dealing with mom and stage 4 cancer . Yes i think it is exactly stuck in prime mode . I originally right after replacing fuel pumps was able to turn key on and got normal beep and occational click of oil pump . I cycled key on and off about 3 times and then lost everything no beep and no 5 sec pump . So i checked fuses and they were good . I turned key on and got no beep but if i leave key on after about a min i get a solid tone and fuel pumps run this goes for about 2 min then a brief pause in alarm and pumps stop relay clicks the instantly same tone and pumps run . It will just keep going if i leave key on . I try and crank it and no spark
 
If your spark doesn't return with this wire disconnected, check all 6 cylinders for spark. We'll work from there. I'm using the outboard manual as reference, there may be slight differences so look for anything that doesn't fit my description and let me know.
Yes i still get no spark at any of coils and same exact thing . No beep when key is turned on but after 1 min constant tone and fuel pumps run . Then quck pause and tone with pumps . It will keep going as long as i leave the key on .
 
I cannot tell you what happened, I only can suggest things to check.

You did disconnect the black with yellow stripe wire from the two switch boxes and still there was no spark, correct?

In order for the engine to run:

1) There must be fuel pressure (about 34psi) on the injector rail to provide fuel
2) Positive 12V on the purple wire of the ECM
2) The stop circuit of the ignition must not be grounded.

If the ignition circuit isn't providing signal to the ECM, the fuel injectors will not be fired.

But there are many models and configurations over the years, that's part of the challenge to locating the correct service documentation. Perhaps I'm not using the correct version, in which case only confusion can result.
 
Yes i see what you are saying and will check for power at purple wire . However i am pretty sure the ecm has power . I am thinking it got screwed up when i cycled the key on and off to quick . If ecu did not have power the buzzer would not be working . And all i get is that stupid cycle with constant buzzing and fuel pump .
 
Your engine does have the two ignition switch boxes (item 20 &21 from above drawing), correct?

I forgot to suggest disconnecting the 4 yellow wires of the two voltage regulators (item 18) as another test.

If one or both of the voltage regulators is bad, this can interrupt the CDI ignition.

Without ignition obviously, the engine won't start, so make sure it's working.

I'm really not sure I'm using the correct service manual so if possible a couple photos might help confirm.

I think the constant buzzing you're experiencing is just the warning system telling you the key is left on on while the engine isn't running. But yeah, the warning system runs off the same power source as the ECU.
 
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I also found out today . That im getting 7 volts from the black and yellow kill wire . So i cut it at the ecu . And am still getting + volts from wire coming out of ecu . Not from same wire coming from key switch so i guess i need to find out why ecu is backfeeding volts thru kill wire . The motor is a 2001 optimax jet drive 200hp
 
Go behind where your kill switch is and disconnect the plug in the back attached to it. Then try cranking it. This will make sure your switch isn’t interfering with the ability for your motor to start. And by in prime mode I think you mean break in mode it would still fire up it would just have more smoke as the ecu would tell the engine to add more oil. So that’s not it. I’m guessing it’s your kill switch or you’re not getting fuel to your injectors they may be clogged And re attach those wires you cut from the ecu I’m pretty sure that needs to be looped in order to work. I have an Optimax 250. It’s essentially the same set up.
 
I also found out today . That im getting 7 volts from the black and yellow kill wire . So i cut it at the ecu . And am still getting + volts from wire coming out of ecu . Not from same wire coming from key switch so i guess i need to find out why ecu is backfeeding volts thru kill wire . The motor is a 2001 optimax jet drive 200hp

You must have the CDM ignition system with the single ignition control box, or does it have the dual ignition switch boxes?
 
I bought this boat for$ 200 . It sat outside for at least 8 years . I tried to start it and at first when i turned key on fuel pump would run for 5 sec. Then when i cranked it i had spark however i ended up having to take all fuel pumps out and replace with new also cleaned gummed up float ect . Also if i put a bit of gas down intake it would fire up but not run . Cause of the fuel pump problem . I got ecited cause i knew it would run after i fixed fuel problem . YA RIGHT once i put all back together for the first few times i turned key on to prime bowls and lines it would run for 5 sec and click when key was switched off .Then all of a sudden it stopped doing anything when key was turned except it would crank . No pump sound no clicking when turned off . So i replaced ignition switch and same thing notta .excep t if i leave key on after a min or so buzzer comes on and fuel pumps start running for about 2 min then stop and start up again with no spark when i crank . Then if i turn key off while pumps are running they stay on for 30 sec or so but no spark now . Any help on what it might be would be so helpful i have spent hours replacing all interior and wet sanding ect cause i fugured after i got fuel pumps replaced it would fire up .now im loosing interest and patience . HELP

I’m curious if you ever figured this one out? I believe I have the same issue.
 
Stop Switch Circuit
To test for a shorted stop switch circuit:
1. Disconnect the key switch harness from the engine.
2. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position and make sure the lanyard switch
is in the RUN position.
3. Check for continuity between the BLACK/YELLOW and BLACK wires in the
key switch harness - there should be no continuity.
 
Stop Switch Circuit
To test for a shorted stop switch circuit:
1. Disconnect the key switch harness from the engine.
2. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position and make sure the lanyard switch
is in the RUN position.
3. Check for continuity between the BLACK/YELLOW and BLACK wires in the
key switch harness - there should be no continuity.
Ok i will check it when i get back home . I did cut the B/y wire at the ecu and had key on ect and no power was coming from key side . But did have voltage on the ecu side thinking its a short in ecu
 
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