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HELP with 1999 GTI , running great, stopped to take out of water, now will not start
- Thread starter eddadams
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Well I have it all back together. Starts on trailer won't start in water. Understand there is additional load because of the impeller. I can start it on the trailer, back it in the water and it will run and idle. But won't start. You can hear the starter motor crank it faster out of the water than in the water.
Rebuild included:
Replaced all fuel lines including pulse line.
Emptied removed and clean fuel tank.
Fuel filter and fuel selector cleaned also.
Check fuel system pressure and it holds. Did not find any air leaks.
Carb rebuild SBT Kit ( what do you mean they are known for poor quality? What specifically happens?)
Used original spring on needle. Pop off tested between 36 and 40 as per the manual.
Low Speed Adjuster set at 1.75, High Speed Adjuster at 0
Don't have a tach so not sure on the idle speed, but it will idle.
I searched the forum and saw several other posts from the past with the no start in water situation. I did not clearly understand the solution. Remember the GTI ran fine until one day it would not start in or out of the water. When running the engine sounds strong. I don't believe it is a compression problem. The carb rebuild and fuel line changes fixed the problem of it not starting at all.
Also when in the water I have tried adjusting the Low Speed Adjuster and Idle speed to see if it would start but no luck.
Another question. In the rear electrical box, there are two fuses. I don't see those on the wiring diagrams for the 1999 GTI.
So once again, any and all help will be appreciated. Thanks
Rebuild included:
Replaced all fuel lines including pulse line.
Emptied removed and clean fuel tank.
Fuel filter and fuel selector cleaned also.
Check fuel system pressure and it holds. Did not find any air leaks.
Carb rebuild SBT Kit ( what do you mean they are known for poor quality? What specifically happens?)
Used original spring on needle. Pop off tested between 36 and 40 as per the manual.
Low Speed Adjuster set at 1.75, High Speed Adjuster at 0
Don't have a tach so not sure on the idle speed, but it will idle.
I searched the forum and saw several other posts from the past with the no start in water situation. I did not clearly understand the solution. Remember the GTI ran fine until one day it would not start in or out of the water. When running the engine sounds strong. I don't believe it is a compression problem. The carb rebuild and fuel line changes fixed the problem of it not starting at all.
Also when in the water I have tried adjusting the Low Speed Adjuster and Idle speed to see if it would start but no luck.
Another question. In the rear electrical box, there are two fuses. I don't see those on the wiring diagrams for the 1999 GTI.
So once again, any and all help will be appreciated. Thanks
Mickirig1
Well-Known Member
You did fuel system test by repair manual procedure?
Did you try gas in air box on water? I wonder if starter has gone over the hill and not turning fast enough or strong enough. How is battery? How old? what type / brand? Some cheap one's only are good for two seasons at best. Cleaned and protected all cable connections with dielectric tune up grease?
( Don't put in junction plugs.) Swab some in spark plug boots too. Seals out moisture that will let them short to ground. Some auto part stores will let you borrow a compression tester. You " Buy it " then return for full credit. It is a critical test for top end engine health. Follow testing procedure. Report back.
Did you try gas in air box on water? I wonder if starter has gone over the hill and not turning fast enough or strong enough. How is battery? How old? what type / brand? Some cheap one's only are good for two seasons at best. Cleaned and protected all cable connections with dielectric tune up grease?
( Don't put in junction plugs.) Swab some in spark plug boots too. Seals out moisture that will let them short to ground. Some auto part stores will let you borrow a compression tester. You " Buy it " then return for full credit. It is a critical test for top end engine health. Follow testing procedure. Report back.
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Good news and Worse news.
Fuel pressure tests fine, following the shop manual procedure.
Battery is Duramax Gold new May 2016. Had it retested today, it's fine.
Cleaned all connections with a dremel tool wire wheel. Covered with dielectric grease during reassembly.
Starts great on the trailer.
Worse news. Bought a compression tester. Front cylinder 130 rear 75 :facepalm:
Any posts on what it takes to rebuild?
Fuel pressure tests fine, following the shop manual procedure.
Battery is Duramax Gold new May 2016. Had it retested today, it's fine.
Cleaned all connections with a dremel tool wire wheel. Covered with dielectric grease during reassembly.
Starts great on the trailer.
Worse news. Bought a compression tester. Front cylinder 130 rear 75 :facepalm:
Any posts on what it takes to rebuild?
I don't know how many hours. Supposedly the engine was rebuilt shortly before we bought it 4 years ago. We have probably only put 40 hours on it. I am confused by the posts on the top end rebuild and the kits I see at OSD. Some kits just have the o-rings and gaskets others include pistons, and still others require boring oversize with new sleeves and pistons. Still others say don't bother with rebuild of engine this old. I am not sure what approach to take. I think I will pull it apart and see if I can decide from that. Thanks for the help.
It depends on the crank. If they rebuilt it before you and put in a new crank it is probably ok.
In that case I would send out the cylinders to be bored to the next size and new oversized pistons fitted. Fullbore online. Com is good for this.
If the crank wasn't done recently then you are better off getting a full rebuild either from full bore or SES engines. Or an exchange from SBT.
In that case I would send out the cylinders to be bored to the next size and new oversized pistons fitted. Fullbore online. Com is good for this.
If the crank wasn't done recently then you are better off getting a full rebuild either from full bore or SES engines. Or an exchange from SBT.
Today's update. Got to take it back to the water today. It started like a champ. I rode it around in a cove for a while to be safe. Stopped it and restarted several times. Rode for about thirty minutes varying the speed. No problems. I took it home about 3 miles away and did the compression test again. 115 in rear cylinder 125 in front. I guess the difference from yesterday is that it had run for awhile today and was at full operating temp. Although the compression is a little low, I think supposed to be around 150 psi. I am not going to do anything about it until winter. I believe it wouldn't start Thursday because the contacts on the connection in the rear electrical box where weak and showed up when the impeller load was on it in the water.
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help
benjilafouine
Well-Known Member
I think you should use another gauge to compare. Cheap gauges are not very reliable.
Benji.
Benji.
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