Help: 2001 Seadoo GTX

[TrevorM]

Hey Seadoo-forums!

I have read some very helpful stuff on this website and have finally decided to join the community!

So first I want to thank everyone who contributes to these forums!

Let's get started: I recently purchase a 2001 Seadoo GTX (951 carbureted). The seadoo currently runs pretty good, but I have noticed the fuel lines are the grey tempos which I just bought fuel line to replace. I also bought a replacement fuel filter and oil filter.

Here's where the trouble begins. First off I am completely new to this, so my question is as follow: 1) Do I need to remove the exhaust to get to the carbs to replace the fuel lines connecting to them? 2) Where is the oil filter located? Also there is a thing on top of my oil tank that looks like an inline filter that has a hose going to it but on the other end no hose is connected??

Thanks everyone for reading any advice and help is greatly appreciated!

 

[mikidymac]

No need to pull the pipe.

You need to get carb kits and rebuild the carbs with only genuine Mikuni kits.
It’s just a check valve on the oil tank. Nothing connects to it.

Make sure you are only running APT-TC full synthetic oil.

 

[TrevorM]

Thank you sir! I have read other post from you and you provide very useful info! I was very worried about that check valve as I thought it was a dead end filter!

So I would like to clean and rebuild carbs but I am hesistant because I'm completely new to all of this and I've been told you could really mess up carbs if you're not careful. Also the carbs are underneath the big black exhaust big correct? If so how do I get to the carbs without taking the pipe off? I'm also trying to replace the oil filter so I need to get to that and the bleed bolt on the pump which is also underneath the piper?

Sorry for all the question complete newbie here, your help is incredibly appreciated!

 

[mikidymac]

The pipe is a pain to remove and replace so I avoid removal.

Once you figure out how to maneuver the air box off the carbs come off pretty easy. In fact it’s better to remove the carbs first to access the pipe bolts.

For the oil pump use a small mechanics mirror and the filter will be easier to find with the carbs and air box off.

Here is the link The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread

 

[TrevorM]

So I was poking around at the seadoo today and found the Air box/flame arrestor. Trying to assess how to accomplish taking it out and replacing fuel lines and oil filter that are near that area. Also I can't help to think that taking the exhaust pipe off would be easier for me lol! So if I do end up taking the pipe off do I need to replace certain gaskets? Also would you have any advice as you said taking the pipe off is a pain.

Also fantastic tutorial on the car rebuild! Still hesistant though! I'll figure it out though! I've been reading up on the service manual.

 

[mikidymac]

Like I said don’t take the pipe off. You can’t access the lower bolt with the carbs on anyway. Seadoo sells a special wrench but it sucks. Trust me, just leave the pipe.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, best not to remove the exhaust pipe b/c most everything can be done without removing the pipe. Check the pipe mounting brackets for lose or missing bolts, my bracket on the starboard side of engine was AOL and the other at the mag housing was missing the bolts.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Before putting too much time & money in any 2-stroke, always check cylinder compression. Yours should be fine (since it runs well) and somewhere above 120psi (132psi is ideal).

When rebuilding the carbs, use the original metering springs, not the kit springs. Basically, you're just cleaning them internally so I'd replace the metering needles, thimble-style fuel filters, and arguably the metering diaphragms. The filters can be cleaned using carb cleaner and compressed air but they come in the kit so may as well

Remove the low speed jet and idle mixture screw and blast out the passage whistle-clean using brake or carb cleaner and compressed air.

The oil filter filters the oil before the oil enters the oil pump on the front of engine.

FWIW, I suggest not doing a whole lot of maintenance in a single shot but instead, water testing in river or lake between maintenance sessions will reveal mistakes that otherwise might be difficult to track down.

Remove, disassemble and clean the RAVE valves once/season, especially if they've never been cleaned before this needs to be done.

 

[TrevorM]

wow thanks everyone for the feedback! Okay I will take your advice and try everything to leave the pipe on. Also a little background, I recently took this seadoo into an official seadoo dealer to get a 17 point insepection. They checked the compression and said it was good (130/130). The issues they noted were as the following:
- Bad fuel quality
- Bad fuel filter
- Bad wear ring
- Bad spark plugs
- Impeller has nicks
- Carbon seal is worn
- "May need carb and fuel line work"

So when I got the watercraft back I siphoned all of the fuel out of the tank. I bought new spark plugs, wear ring, marine grade fuel line (5' of 1/4" & 15' of 5/16"), fuel filter + o-ring, and oil filter. I also bought the jet pump oil and o-rings as I plan to change the oil while I'm replacing the wear ring. I am not sure what I am going to do about the worn carbon seal and I suppose I should buy the carb kits soon to rebuild as mentioned. Also not sure what fuel line clamps I want to use I heard to get oetiker clamps but they are sorta hard to find...

Side note: before I bought this seadoo I test drove it and it ran incredibly good! Fast as hell! So I don't want to mess anything up! I am just trying to fix what the dealer has noted and what other users have said about the fuel lines, etc...

This help is great and I will keep this updated as I continue to work on this 2001 Seadoo GTX! Any other advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

If you're replacing the fuel lines, that's a good opportunity for kitting the carbs ans cleaning them out internally. The fuel lines as they deteriorate over the years will contaminate the carbs.

My guess is you will find some fuel line junk inside the PTO carb fuel screen.

As far as the other stuff goes, I'n still running my original carbon seal, rubber drive shaft bellows and I think someone replaced the wear ring (but the new one has some grooves from debris). The impeller (replaced once, it seems not factory) has dings and one blade is slightly bent on the trailing edge. Despite all this, the boat runs out well and I've seen 50MPH in ideal conditions.

My boat came from NY harbor and obviously has sucked plenty of junk through the pump, it even came complete with a dying muscle lodged in the intake grate.

I rotated my carbon seal and bellows 180 degrees to wear the other side b/c they will ride against the drive shaft so instead of egg shape I'll get an oval. my rubber bellows is easy to pull away from the seal b/c it's lost some tension over the years but still works satisfactorily.

SO my guess based on your boat performs well, is the Seadoo shop was doing a little CYA but they're not entirely wrong to suggest replacement as those parts are consumables, thus suspect. Replacing them in one shot probably saves you money over the long run if a shop will be doing all the work anyway.

130psi is great, make sure to use the correct 2-stroke oil b/c the 951 is very high performance for it's size and design, highly tuned thus your fanciest TCW outboard or universal 2-stroke oil isn't gonna cut it. Fortunately, replacement motors are relatively cheap in comparison with other marine engines but why not try and get max life?

Another for instance, IMO, it's unwise to run the 951 balls to the wall for extended periods, I cruise mine about 5200 RPM and it seems to like this speed.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'm pretty sure I used the factory style oetiker clamps on the carbs themselves b/c the all-factory look is kinda one of my OCD thangs unless I see a clear improvement path plus they work well and fit in those tight spaces where often a worm-screw style wont. Get the assortment online or your local marine dealer should have them as they're also common on outboards,

 

[TrevorM]

Good advice! So I noticed oil being mentioned a lot. The oil that's been ran in the seadoo is the XPS stuff from the dealer. The previous owner gave me a whole thing of XPS oil. Also is it a bad idea if I use complete stainless steel worm clamps? It was a pain to find oetiker clamps I called around but no luck so I got some stainless steal worm clamps from Menards for a low price. Planning on working on the seadoo today or tomorrow after work.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

If you prefer using the worm clamps they should work fine, might experience some difficulty with connecting at the rear carb (pto) fuel inlet where it's really tight. Coast guard rated fuel line is too thick for this space around the barbed fitting, hopefully your parts work out well.

While taking the 2 tank to carb fuel lines lose from the carbs, the fuel return line from the carbs to the tank is most difficult to disconnect and I find giving it a twist while pulling straight-on will avoid breaking the plastic barbed fitting in most every case.

Before losening the 4 carb mounting allen cap screws, break lose the phillips head screws of the plate that ties the two carb inlet throats together if you can b/c it's more difficult to do this on the bench.

One of those 3/8 drive hand impact drivers designed to be tapped with a hammer comes in handy for breaking lose these screws and bolts after years of galvanic bonding. It shouldn't take much to get them lose this way, and the large #3 bit you'll need comes in most sets.

 

[TrevorM]

UPDATE

So worked on the Seadoo tonight. Took off a few fuel lines and took out fuel selector. One port of the fuel selector was almost completely clogged! I took out the junk with a small pick and sprayed carberator cleaner in each port. I also took out fuel baffle because the fuel gauge doesn't work and wanted to check float find out that damn thing was never plugged in to begin with lol!

On to some bad news... I tried to put the new fuel line on the inlet nipples and they were impossible to slip on! I got 5/16" (Sierra Marine Shields Silverado 4000) I noticed when I bought the fuel line at O'Reily's the box said (7.9xx mm) the hoses are 8mm... I used penetration fluid to lube it up but still can't get the darn thing on the inlets! Tried a dremmel bit to try and wided the hose (just to fit over the inlet part) and the hose is so damn strong it broke my dremmel bit... So it's getting dark out and I'm going to wait to work on it more tomorrow.

 

[mikidymac]

Just buy standard 1/4” automotive fuel hose.

Also cleaning the selector especially with carb cleaner makes them leak air into the fuel system causing problems.

 

[TrevorM]

I got 5' of 1/4 Sierra Marine and 15' 5/16" that's what I read to get for the 951. Also I already cleaned the fuel selector with carb cleaner did I mess it up then??? I spent a lot on the fuel lines so I really wanted to use them.

 

[mikidymac]

Sorry, yes the 951 uses 5/16” for supply and 1/4 for the return. All that’s needed is standard black automotive hose.

I never suggest cleaning and reusing the selectors.

For the 951 I have been using the WSM ones for years with no issues.

 

[TrevorM]

I already have the marine grade fuel line I hope I can make it work! And you suggest buying a new fuel selector (the thing that you switch from reserve/on/off)? I read to just clean it... I didn't want to have to buy a new one shoot! Have any suggestion on the whole fuel lines fitting because I already bought this stuff and it wasn't cheap!

EDIT

I just order a WSM fuel selector. Will be replacing as advised. Fingers cross these expensive fuel lines work!

 

[etemplet]

Hmmmmmm..... good thread with lots of good info. I'm gonna be doing one of this over the winter perhaps sooner. I gotta make up my mind if it is a keeper or not.

 

[mikidymac]

Hmmmmmm..... good thread with lots of good info. I'm gonna be doing one of this over the winter perhaps sooner. I gotta make up my mind if it is a keeper or not.

Once you ride a 951 XP I am pretty sure you will like it. Yes, I am a bad influence, remember the 96' XP?

 

[GGuillot]

Once you ride a 951 XP I am pretty sure you will like it. Yes, I am a bad influence, remember the 96' XP?

You guys kill me with the half dozen skis and so forth trying to decide what to keep or getting more. Yall's wives must be real laid back, mine is having a fit just over 2 skis and 1 single trailer. I've got a lot of lost ground to make up by Xmas. I haven't sprung it on her yet I'm getting a double trailer by next season...her Bday is April, so it's going to be difficult to pull off...

 

[TrevorM]

Quick question: I am buying the genuine mikuni carb kits and gaskets. But I can't seem to find the correct needle and seat. My seadoo ran good so would it be acceptable to reuse the needle and seat?

 

[tobytd]

Do it once do it right. Chances are old N/S won't pass pop off tests.

 

[TrevorM]

I'm having a hard time finding the correct needle and seat by mikuni... I'll keep looking. I need to look at the manual for the grams.

 

[etemplet]

2001 GTX 947 engine takes 2.0 mikuni needles and seats.

Sea Doo PWC Carburetor Reference