Hard to reach hose connector for back-flush

[hkr4444]

I have put my 2009 Islandia on a new boat lift and in order to hook up the water hose to do a back-flush, I have to reach down over the back of the boat and can hardly touch the quick disconnect I have on the back-flush input down by the jet. Question is can I extend that back-flush input with a short 2 or 3 foot piece of hose as long as it is open and pointed rearward so it can still exhaust water or maybe just put a 6 in PVC and extend it straight back (or will that interferer with turning the nozzle or the dropping of the reverse cups?

 

[seadoosnipe]

4TEC cooling...

I have put my 2009 Islandia on a new boat lift and in order to hook up the water hose to do a back-flush, I have to reach down over the back of the boat and can hardly touch the quick disconnect I have on the back-flush input down by the jet. Question is can I extend that back-flush input with a short 2 or 3 foot piece of hose as long as it is open and pointed rearward so it can still exhaust water or maybe just put a 6 in PVC and extend it straight back (or will that interferer with turning the nozzle or the dropping of the reverse cups?

I'm sure you know your cooling system is a two part system. Open and closed, with the open loop being your exhaust system. It's not paramount that you backflush every time you go out, unless you are riding primarily in salt water. If you are in salt and come in to a river basin with brackish or fresh water, then you'll be removing most of the salts that cause corrosion.

I don't think I'd extend your quick connect fitting because of water turbulence. The pump is underwater at start and idle, then lifts up to plane, with the pump out of the water at full speed. So there is a transition that might create turbulence on added tubing or PVC.

Have you looked at the possibility of adding a "t" and quick snap connection to the inside? You can get a water hose "t" fitting and add to the same line from inside, if you have the room. That way, you can open the engine compartment and flush from the inside. I know, the 4-TEC takes up a lot of room so this may not be the easiest thing to do. I've found in most cases, if I remove a part or two from the top of the motor to expose the inside, I can work on a few things. I've never worked the Utopia so not familar with the engine compartment configuration.:cheers: