Gtx DI head bolts

[DeWet]

Im trying to get head bolts off a seadoo gtx di engine and because of oxidation the bolt only come out a little before the torx head strips. What can I squirt/spray under the bolt heads to disolve the oxidation? Wd40 have little affect.

 

[artr]

I would try a penetrating oil like PB Blaster and let it soak in for a while.

 

[mikidymac]

PB Blaster and heat is about your only option.

 

[etemplet]

If the holes are full of calcium you can try Acetone but be careful with that. And you can't get the heat where you need it. I told my cousin I was gonna use a seafood boiling pot and fill it up with old oil and heat it up to about 350 degrees and let the whole engine soak a couple of days and repeat the process.

The ones I have trouble with calcium is packed around the bolt so it isn't really the threads that are the problem. I've tried more crap. Job goes from 5 minutes to 3 hours and they you throw the part away. Good Luck !!

 

[DeWet]

Cool thanks, ordered some pb blaster so will see.

Last night I ran out of wd40 so had a can of silicon spray lying around. Sprayed it in the hole of obe bolt and it kinda made bubbles kept on spraying where the hole was filled with oxidation before I can now see there is a gap again. Cant see all the way dowb but gonna keep ons spraying and see if it will loosen up.

Will let you know what happened after I had a go for a while

 

[mikidymac]

If it is a saltwater ski it might never come apart without TNT.

 

[etemplet]

Im trying to get head bolts off a seadoo gtx di engine and because of oxidation the bolt only come out a little before the torx head strips. What can I squirt/spray under the bolt heads to disolve the oxidation? Wd40 have little affect.

I just pulled a 2002 RX DI engine. The head bolts laughed at me. They won't budge. I'm gonna give it some thought. My experience tells me just under the head is where the build up of calcium is located. These are the most chicken shite bolt heads I've ever dealt with. Very week. The smart move would be for me to send the engine to the shop and let them worry about it but where is the adventure in that.

 

[Poormanracing]

Hit them from the top down with a air hammer and jolt them around spray pb in there with compressed air.disconect all electrical get a big gage wire and a battery and can ground one end to the block and touch positive to top of bolt will heat up the bolt.but be careful of fuel and so fourth.do some googling to get the jist of it

 

[etemplet]

I was thinking about that electric bolt heating but I have torches. Cool idea though and may do better than a torch heaing from the top only .

My wife showed me a tool a few years back that you hooked to the bolt and the frame and it got red. I didn't think anything like that would be necessary till I started fooling with the skis. Ha ha. I'm a machinist by trade so I know all the tricks or most of them. Some of these things just won't come apart. I had to cut the cover off a 787 once even though I broke the bolts off. That white crap is MEAN.

Thanks for your suggestion I'll give it a try. The engine is completely out of the ski so I can blow it up. Ha ha.

 

[Poormanracing]

Oh ya it is it builds up then all the heat cycles and vibration tightens it up.but I find heating it then letting it cool then heating it again helps instead of just heating it and going for it.i had a customers 96 gti last spring.it sat for ten years and the last he used it was the ocean.i actually got it apart and only broke one bolt.and it broke at the head.i used a battery and wire trick torches where empty.was faster and easier

 

[etemplet]

Yes indeed. The problem with the torch is it takes so long for the heat to penetrate the entire length of the bolt. Then the head looses its hardness and twists right off. I'm definitely gonna try the battery trick. I'm gonna use a cable connected directly to the engine for the ground.

I agree that heating and going for it the first time is a risk. The problem is the bolts are so long you can get the heat to where it needs to be quick enough. We used to "shrink" the bolts using heat and then water. That works great but again, you can't get to the threaded area on the engines.. My friend VJ had a Yamaha Shop. He told me they just headed them red hot and let them sit over night.

This is going to be interesting but I tell ya.... they heads on these DI bolt are pure garbage. Too soft and not enough area. Thanks so much for sharing.

 

[etemplet]

Oh ya it is it builds up then all the heat cycles and vibration tightens it up.but I find heating it then letting it cool then heating it again helps instead of just heating it and going for it.i had a customers 96 gti last spring.it sat for ten years and the last he used it was the ocean.i actually got it apart and only broke one bolt.and it broke at the head.i used a battery and wire trick torches where empty.was faster and easier

I wonder how the salt water gets in there to corrode but it obviously does. I've been using Gasket Eliminator on the top of the head bolts to seal them but I'll never know who the works.

Question - How long does it take to get the bolt hot using the battery method??