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GTS cavitation?

G

Gwstaudy

Member
I’m not completely sure what’s wrong with it once again but I’m back on here. I got it on the water again and last time I had it out it would plow water and I’d accelerate and it sounded like it would rev up but not go any faster. I took it out and replaced the wear ring and put in a solas impeller and rebuilt the rest of the pump. Now that it’s back out it definitely gets up faster and I think it gets on plane but if I give it any more throttle it goes no faster. When putting the wear ring in there’s no gap on the bottom of the pump but there is a visible gap on top. Could it be a junk wear ring or something else. It seems like it tops out and I can feel the ski like shake a bit and it like sputters kind of. Not the engine but the water it sounds like.

Additional detail is that I am currently breaking in the engine.
I’m also adding a picture of the gap from impeller and wear ring.
 

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My pump housing seems to be fine besides for there being some marks and chewed up bits on the fins that are right behind the impeller. Could that be enough to cause this issue or is it wear ring related? Do I need a new pump housing?
 
It’s very hard to tell from the picture as the picture gets blurry when it’s expanded but it may look like too much clearance from the prop to the wear ring. Can you get some feeler gauges in there to measure? Without looking at the manual I think maximum clearance is 1 mm? Did you check the manual? Do you remember what the clearance is supposed to be? I wouldn’t ride anymore till you get it figured out, it may not be cooling properly if the clearance is too much. Did you happen to see if a good stream was coming from the pisser?
 
burtshaver2021 said:
It’s very hard to tell from the picture as the picture gets blurry when it’s expanded but it may look like too much clearance from the prop to the wear ring. Can you get some feeler gauges in there to measure? Without looking at the manual I think maximum clearance is 1 mm? Did you check the manual? Do you remember what the clearance is supposed to be? I wouldn’t ride anymore till you get it figured out, it may not be cooling properly if the clearance is too much. Did you happen to see if a good stream was coming from the pisser?
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I don’t believe this one has a pisser unless I’m unaware. I’d bet that gap is more like 2mm from what I can see. It did run good and always started first crank on the water. In the pic the light you can see is from a work light I put behind it and I can only see it at top and bottom but it seems to be a pretty large gap.
 
I know some people have good luck with the aftermarket ones however I have never had an issue with OEM so that is what I use.
 
mikidymac said:
I know some people have good luck with the aftermarket ones however I have never had an issue with OEM so that is what I use.
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Where do you buy oem ones. I’ve seen some but only for $50+. And is there an easy way to figure out which is distorted? Neither appeared to be when I had them out.
 
Gwstaudy said:
I don’t believe this one has a pisser unless I’m unaware. I’d bet that gap is more like 2mm from what I can see. It did run good and always started first crank on the water. In the pic the light you can see is from a work light I put behind it and I can only see it at top and bottom but it seems to be a pretty large gap.
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I’m not sure what model you have but I’m pretty sure they all have pissers, that seems like a very large gap, I’ve read ahead and see you have it under control, I couldn’t imagine it being the pump housing itself. Anything OSD or Seadoo warehouse sells is going to work. I see many people using Delrin wear ring. I haven’t had the pleasure/need to change one myself yet.
 
Measure the wear ring as it sits. When you take the wear ring out do some measurements on the housing, that will verify whether the warp is in the housing or the wear ring. Also pay close attention when removing to make sure you didn't get anything between the two.
 
Gwstaudy said:
It’s definitely different. Sides are tight and the top and bottom have a visible gap. Could that be causing the whole issue or is the pump housing part of the problem too?
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I had this issue and it was from the prop. I put a stock prop back into the pump and a new wear ring over the winter and it was even all the way around
 
DaddyLoafin said:
I had this issue and it was from the prop. I put a stock prop back into the pump and a new wear ring over the winter and it was even all the way around
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Even with a Solas prop? I’ve heard of a lot of people using them and they’re pretty expensive. How does that work. If the prop was the problem it would’ve been digging into the sides of that wear ring you had on. That sounds like a ring problem but I can try taking out my new prop and seeing if the old one works.
 
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Gwstaudy said:
Even with a Solas prop? I’ve heard of a lot of people using them and they’re pretty expensive. How does that work. If the prop was the problem it would’ve been digging into the sides of that wear ring you had on. That sounds like a ring problem but I can try taking out my new prop and seeing if the old one works.
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yup I had a Solas prop in it when it was doing that. bought a used stock prop off eBay for like $30 and a Delrin wear ring from osd and problem gone. and now when I grab the throttle my spx jumps up out of the water like it's suppose to.
 
I took my impeller off and threw my old one on and it seems to have the same gap so I’m assuming it’s the ring. I haven’t measure but I don’t have a reliable way to measure besides a tape measure. I also seem to be leaking a bit of oil out of the nose cone fill screw and I’m not sure why. I used the 592 to seal it.

I’m also including a picture that shows the fins that have gouges and am wondering if these are part of the problem?
 

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From what I managed to measure with a tape measure it seems that the sides of the wear ring are about 1/8-1/16 of an inch smaller than from the top to bottom.
 
Either the wear ring or pump is distorted.

You also have to make sure the inside of the pump is spotless before installing the ring.
 
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