Fuel Rail Screw Will Not Come Out

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enut

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I was trying to remove the fuel rail to fog the intake today. One of the screws holding the fuel rail on keeps spinning, so I can't remove it. I heard a snap and now the screw just spins. I do not see any damage to the plastic. Has anyone had this happen to them?

Thanks
 

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You may have snapped the bolt retainer inside the manifold plastic. So now it just spins inside the black plastic. Only way to get it out by heating the bolt head using a gas torch and using a lock plier. after removing you may have to glue back the screw retaining nut.
 
You may have snapped the bolt retainer inside the manifold plastic. So now it just spins inside the black plastic. Only way to get it out by heating the bolt head using a gas torch and using a lock plier. after removing you may have to glue back the screw retaining nut.
The 4-TEC's aren't my cup of tea, but I am trying to wrap my head around the idea of using gas torch around the fuel rail, fuel system, sounds kinda unsafe. Maybe, I'm just not experienced enough to see the big picture on this fix.
 
I'm gonna have to agree with Seadoosnipe on this one. Flames and fuel rails doesn't seem like a good idea. Unless of course you're trying to blow yourself up.
 
I have done this with some extra care. What you could do is get a wet towel and wrap around the area. Also use a small torch with slight flame. Also you can put more wet towels on top of fuel lines and other places that could get melted because of heat. You need around 2-3 mins heat on to the bolt head.
 
Okay, I gottta agree with the others on the danger of using an open flame around a fuel source or where there may potentially be fuel vapors. Probably not the greatest of ideas..... I had the opportunity to investigate a fire death as a result of a veteran welder that decided it would be a good idea to use a torch to cut apart an "empty" acetone barrel to make a grill.....he lit the torch, started cutting, and a few seconds later the upper part of his body was separated from the lower part and the ground beneath was painted red. I wouldn't suggest it to anyone.....
 
How would I heat the bolt since the retaining bolt is embedded in plastic, I don't want to melt the whole support post? The entire manifold piece that the fuel rail is mounted on is plastic. Of course there is the obvious fire risk.
I was hoping someone has ran into this in the past when doing engine work or during an engine rebuild.
There are a lot of items mounted on the manifold like this such as the ECU and the like.
I was also hoping that maybe Bombardier might have some procedure on dealing with something like this.
 
Other than the fuel/fire issue, I too was wondering what heating the bolt up would accomplish in a plastic housing and a spinning retaining nut?!
 
When you heat the bolt it will soften the area where retain bolt I see held. Once you pull it out the retaining nut will come off with some damage to the post. Already if the nut spinning that won't do more harm. After removing the nut needs separating from screw. After works comepleted you have to either glue back the nut or ( this is what I normally does on car intakes) get hexagon nut, heat it up and place it on the plastic post aligning with the fuel rail screw hole. AfTer cooling down best to put some glue to stop nut coming out and put back the rail. Trust this works for me many times on different engines
 
If you are too concerned about getting roasted you can remove the fuel inline to the rail and place it away from the working area. Also get a wet piece of cloth and squeeze into the rail hole. Handy to have bucket of water close to where you are working. Once the fuel rail and tank out line have separated there won't be blast or life threatening hazards.
 
When I take the boat out of storage in the spring, I will give it a try.
Thanks for all of the responses.
 
I used an impact wrench to spin the bolt until it heated up the plastic (maybe about a minute) and it came right out (the bushing came out with it). Then using a pair of vise grips to hold the bushing, I was able to take the screw out completely.

I put some superglue inside the plastic hole and a few drops on the outside of the bushing itself, then I tapped it back into place. After letting it sit overnight and cleaning up the bolt threads a bit, I re-assembled everything.

I torqued the bolt to 9 Nm as was called out in the service manual. So far it seems to be holding, I hope it stays that way. I am surprised the way BRP designed it. The only thing holding the brass bushing from spinning, is the knurled surface around it.
 
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