flooded engine compartment

cabldawg

Premium Member
Premium Member
I just picked up a 2001 Sportster LE. I haven't had it in the water yet. It cranked up and ran although it smoked quite a bit. I'm not really worried about that. If it needs a rebuild then so be it. My daughter was cleaning the boat yesterday while I was at work. (It's really for her anyways) She was cleaning the engine compartment of all of the oil all over the place and walked away for a phone call leaving the hose running. It completely submerged the engine. We let it drain out. Unfortunately the bilge pump was not working. I pulled the plugs and turned it over and it spit a lot of water out like I would expect. I have been steady working on getting the water out all day today by pulling the plugs and turning it over as well as putting the plugs back in and turning it over more. The plugs come out white and milky every time. I have tried to fire it like I have any four wheeler I've flooded before and I simply cannot get this thing to fire back off. Foggin oil has been sprayed into the carbs and the cylinders. I'm at a loss at this point. Should I pull the carbs and jugs off to see what's in there? I've never worked on one of these engines before but I'm definitely not foreign to doing the work. At this point the starter is likely shot too as all I get now is a click. I ordered a new one from SBT. Any good advice would be appreciated.
 
If you think there could still be water in there and your starter is shot then It would t be a bad idea to take the cylinder cover and cylinders off, then you can soak up any residual moisture with a shop towel, maybe a little compressed air and then some 2 stroke oil for lubrication. Better safe than sorry, especially since you couldn’t run it again after flooding, That must have been one lkk on my phone call
 
If you think there could still be water in there and your starter is shot then It would t be a bad idea to take the cylinder cover and cylinders off, then you can soak up any residual moisture with a shop towel, maybe a little compressed air and then some 2 stroke oil for lubrication. Better safe than sorry, especially since you couldn’t run it again after flooding, That must have been one lkk on my phone call
Yes it was unfortunately. She definitely learned her lesson on that one. I'm getting no water out of the rear cylinder anymore. The front cylinder still soaks the plug pretty bad but it doesn't shoot anything out. I thought the starter went out but the connection to the starter actually broke due to corrosion. I'm going to pickup another copper connector and crimp it on. I've fogged the cylinders again for tonight. Tomorrow is another day. At least this is fresh water from a hose! Do you think the carbs would need to be pulled at this point? This doesn't have the factory air box on it. It has exposed air filters that just clamp on. They appear to be like a washable style filter. Once I get the cable repaired tomorrow I'm going to do a compression test.
 
Yes it was unfortunately. She definitely learned her lesson on that one. I'm getting no water out of the rear cylinder anymore. The front cylinder still soaks the plug pretty bad but it doesn't shoot anything out. I thought the starter went out but the connection to the starter actually broke due to corrosion. I'm going to pickup another copper connector and crimp it on. I've fogged the cylinders again for tonight. Tomorrow is another day. At least this is fresh water from a hose! Do you think the carbs would need to be pulled at this point? This doesn't have the factory air box on it. It has exposed air filters that just clamp on. They appear to be like a washable style filter. Once I get the cable repaired tomorrow I'm going to do a compression test.
I would hold off on pulling the carbs, keep it lubed well like your doing with the fogging oil or 2 stroke oil. After you crank it for 20 seconds or so, squirt a little oil in the plug holes. You will need to get it running as soon as you can, on the water for a good hour would be best buy on the trailer for 20 seconds is better then not at all. Don’t run it on the trailer for more than 20 seconds without giving it a half hour or so to cool down.
 
I would hold off on pulling the carbs, keep it lubed well like your doing with the fogging oil or 2 stroke oil. After you crank it for 20 seconds or so, squirt a little oil in the plug holes. You will need to get it running as soon as you can, on the water for a good hour would be best buy on the trailer for 20 seconds is better then not at all. Don’t run it on the trailer for more than 20 seconds without giving it a half hour or so to cool down.
If I can get it started up tomorrow and only let it run for 20 seconds at a time I should not have the hose connected to the flush port, correct? Once I can reliably get it started I'll drop it in the water to run it out. Also the oil injection has been deleted. He said "he thought" it ran 32:1 on pre-mix. Is that correct? 951 LE model.
 
If I can get it started up tomorrow and only let it run for 20 seconds at a time I should not have the hose connected to the flush port, correct? Once I can reliably get it started I'll drop it in the water to run it out. Also the oil injection has been deleted. He said "he thought" it ran 32:1 on pre-mix. Is that correct? 951 LE model.
No, no need to have the garden hose on the flush port, I forget exactly how long you can run on the garden hose, a minute or so. And especially don’t want to be in the hose until it’s running correctly. Yes, 32:1 is good.
 
Just reading another post and it made me think of you, is that a 787 in that? I’m worried about water getting in the counterbalance shaft, don’t run this motor until someone else chimes in with an opinion about this, I’m thinking you may have to drain that counterbalance shaft if it has a drain, some do, some don’t, and refill it with SAE 30. It doesn’t take a lot of oil but it’s crucial at start up after a rebuild and after flooding. Hopefully @mikidymac can advise you on this. Also if you can get a shop manual, they are super handy to have, I think I got mine here as a premium member but you could try searching the internet
 
Just reading another post and it made me think of you, is that a 787 in that? I’m worried about water getting in the counterbalance shaft, don’t run this motor until someone else chimes in with an opinion about this, I’m thinking you may have to drain that counterbalance shaft if it has a drain, some do, some don’t, and refill it with SAE 30. It doesn’t take a lot of oil but it’s crucial at start up after a rebuild and after flooding. Hopefully @mikidymac can advise you on this. Also if you can get a shop manual, they are super handy to have, I think I got mine here as a premium member but you could try searching the internet
This is a 951. I haven’t been able to find a drain for the crankcase. I watched a video last night of a guy splitting the cases. He just did a top end rebuild. These things are super simple. Apparently this model wasn’t super popular. It’s kinda hard to find information on it.
 
This is a 951. I haven’t been able to find a drain for the crankcase. I watched a video last night of a guy splitting the cases. He just did a top end rebuild. These things are super simple. Apparently this model wasn’t super popular. It’s kinda hard to find information on it.
Maybe get a free shop manual from seadoomanuals.net for any carb model 951, if You can’t find a manual for your exact model. Also could check the diagrams on seadoowarehouse,com it’s the counterbalance shaft I’m most worried about. There may be a drain plug for it.
 
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