Figured I'd let you guys have a crack at this - 05 GTi LE RFI won't run
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funsummerahead
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Well a pump will definitely help. Pump as most of the oil out of the tank that you can. Put an old shirt in the hull to catch any oil that spills and then unhook only 1 of the rotary valve bath hoses from the tank and put the pump suction tube in it and take out as much oil as possible. After that you'll have to just lay down the oil line in the hull and drain it into the rag. You'll probably also have to remove the oil injection line from the tank and drain that too. Remove the oil tank, flush it with HOT water and let it dry. Not a bad idea to replace the oil lines at this point as they're probably original. Hook everything back up, Fill oil tank with SEA DOO MINERAL OIL from the dealer and make darn sure you bleed the oil pump to get any air out per the manual. If you want to clean the hull up really well I personally use the Purple Power in a spray bottle and spray the inside of the hull a good bit. Don't use a pressure washer! No need to, the hot water is best. Take a garden hose and hook it up to the bottom port of your hot water tank, turn the valve and lightly spray the inside of the hull for 5 minutes and it will look like brand new. It will be so clean if you ever have any kind of gas or oil leak you'll see it right away.
Fern
Member
Thanks for taking the time and explaining it I really do appreciate it thank you
funsummerahead
Active Member
Sorry to say but that's the wrong oil... You have a 94 SPX with the 657 or 657X engine. There aren't rave valves on that engine so you should get the mineral oil made by Sea Doo. It is the only correct oil for the ski. There are some high performance brands but whatever. The more expensive Sea Doo oil is not the one you want, simply put it's the wrong oil. You should look it up online as the dealers up charge is a bit and you can have it delivered to you for about the same price.
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noviceskier
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The full synthetic shouldn't hurt it, it's just not needed
Fern
Member
What
You think i can use it then with no problem
You can use the black and yellow bottle and it is actually better than the white bottle. The white bottle is just the minimum your engine requires. White bottle is conventional and black bottle is full synthetic.
To change the rotary oil.
First suck out the oil from the tank until it’s empty.
Next go ok a suction pump to the oil hose on the big hose fitting on the intake side of the engine. This is the large hose on the bottom of the oil tank. Not the one going to the oil pump. Suck out all the old oil or as much as you can get.
Now take the big oil hose off the top of the oil tank and with a bottle or small funnel add some of your new oil to this hose and use your suction pump on the lower one again. Now you have flushed the old oil out and have some new correct oil in there.
Now reconnect everything and fill your tank with fresh oil fill the new oil filter and purge the oil pump and injection hoses.
To change the rotary oil.
First suck out the oil from the tank until it’s empty.
Next go ok a suction pump to the oil hose on the big hose fitting on the intake side of the engine. This is the large hose on the bottom of the oil tank. Not the one going to the oil pump. Suck out all the old oil or as much as you can get.
Now take the big oil hose off the top of the oil tank and with a bottle or small funnel add some of your new oil to this hose and use your suction pump on the lower one again. Now you have flushed the old oil out and have some new correct oil in there.
Now reconnect everything and fill your tank with fresh oil fill the new oil filter and purge the oil pump and injection hoses.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Whenever I suspect a 2-stroke with a dry cylinder (or two), I use my squirt bottle of pre-mix down the throat of the carb (throttle body, or what have you). You can often keep them running this way for 30 sec. or so, depending on how quickly your trigger finger gets tired.
noviceskier
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Yes you're fine with that oil, full synthetic is definitely better but not "needed"
kevinz
Active Member
So I found your reply among all the highjacking of my thread and want to discuss the pressure regulator. How often do these go bad? Do you happen to have a part number? I found the bosch pump and will order it shortly.
funsummerahead
Active Member
I've only worked on a handful of DI's and RFI's. 1 was bad in the DI. I looked on the parts fiche and they don't show a number just for the pressure regulator. Did you check the fuel pressure yet?
funsummerahead
Active Member
That is the WRONG OIL. Synthetic is for RAVE Valve engines. Your SPX is not a rave valve engine. All 580, 657 and 720's should use the Mineral oil only. The one you bought is - The most advanced 2-stoke oil ever developed for Ski-Doo snowmobiles equipped with Rotax E-TEC engines. Specially formulated for snowmobiles and watercraft with E-TEC, direct injection, semi direct and high performance carbureted 2-stoke engines. Its unique premium combination of proprietary synthetic base stocks and highly engineered additives will help ensure your engine attains ultimate performance and unsurpassed protection against friction and wear. Loose is the term high performance carb 2 stroke engines.... What they mean is RAVE Valves. This synthetic I've not seen as I don't have a ski that it goes in. It's for fuel injected 2 strokes with the RAVES. Call the dealer on Monday and ask them which oil you should use. Apparently they have a new Mineral oil for some reason or they just changed the color of the jug. I've not seen or used this new black jug but on the BRP website they don't show the white XPS mineral oil any longer.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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xps full synthetic 2-Stroke is applicable for any 2-stroke seadoo, some don't require or need it. this formulation is also fine for pre-mixing and any air-cooled 2-stroke.
I use this product in my 2-stroke chainsaws and weed eaters for years now with no ill effects. The only 2-stroke I would advise against using xps-2 full synthetic in is outboards or anything specifying TCW-3 (Hydrazine type detergent package).
I use this product in my 2-stroke chainsaws and weed eaters for years now with no ill effects. The only 2-stroke I would advise against using xps-2 full synthetic in is outboards or anything specifying TCW-3 (Hydrazine type detergent package).
kevinz
Active Member
No, not yet. I have the injectors out getting checked and reconditioned. When those get back, I'll either A) check the fuel pressure or B) spend the 40 bucks for a new Bosch one and not worry about it for (hipefully) 250 more hours and 13 years. After that, I'll give her a go and see if she'll start. If that doesn't work out, I have a friend who has offered to help me with it and he has all the crap to work on an RFI.
funsummerahead
Active Member
Well that's fine but you can check the fuel pressure without the injectors and you should as they're the last parts in the system. I cut the fuel line and checked it with a pressure tester. The manual reads to use a T for this and I don't know why since you're not starting it. Simply cut the fuel line and hook up a gauge to it. Put the DESS key in and out a couple 3 to 4 times as it only goes on for 1 second or so. If the pressure is under 56 - 60 psi you have a problem being either the fuel pump or the pressure regulator. If it's low then take out the fuel pump and check that itself BEFORE the pressure regulator. If that's good then your pressure regulator is bad. If your fuel pressure is low then it's obvious that the pump is bad. When done you can either repair the fuel line with a good fitting like brass and a couple hose clamps or put in a good sized fuel filter for $10 that is the right pressure and micron size. An extra filter isn't going to do any harm especially when it's larger than most automotive oil filters.
Fern
Member
So that e-tec oil will be ok then ?
funsummerahead
Active Member
Do you have an E-TEC engine? No you don't. Do you have an RFI or DI injected engine? No you don't. Do you have a RAVE Valve engine? No you don't.. That is the wrong oil but it will work, but then again so will Super tech TCW3 from Walmart. Both wrong oils but both will work... For a while. CALL THE DEALER if you can't look it up yourself. Sea Doo NON RAVE Valve engines should use the Sea Doo Mineral oil ONLY. Just because the oil is from Sea Doo and more expensive doesn't mean it's the right oil...
You are absolutely wrong on your response to this oil so please stop spreading bad information.
The E-Tec 2 T is a full synthetic oil that it approved and recommended for all Seadoo 2-Strokes ever made.
It is not required in the 580, 650 and 720 engines but it is perfectly fine and approved for those engines.
The mineral oil is only approved in the 580, 650 and 720.
So you don’t technically “need” the fully synthetic but to say the E-Tec is wrong is 100% false.
The only requirement for the 580, 650 and 720 is API-TC rated which the E-Tec 2T meets and exceeds.
Yes that oil is 100% absolutely fine. Honestly you couldn’t have picked a better one.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Confirm it's API-TC "low ash" 2-stroke rated product, if it's rated TCW or universal it's not what you want or need.
The subject of e-tec gets confusing b/c the Evinrude/Johnson outboards are called e-tec as well and who knows what else, snowmobiles perhaps? AND, seadoo keeps repackaging these products and changing the labels around.
1) Look at the rating
2) Read the description for it's intended use.
3) I use XPS-2 full synthetic 2-stroke, that's the label on the jug from last year, no telling how it's labeled this year.
If what you have is listed for an RFI or DI 2-stroke jet ski, then it's applicable and supercedes for all other seadoo 2-stroke engines, RAVE type or not. It's API-TC equivalent rated by seadoo and it's very good stuff for it's intended purpose (2-stroke seadoo jet skis). So happens, great for Lawnboy 2-stroke mowers too, for instance, any air-cooled (ie: high temp) 2-stroke. TCW can't handle as much heat, don't use TCW in your air-cooled 2-strokes.
Not to be confused with 4 stroke crankcase oil or the Johnnyrude e-tec 2-stroke outboard TCW-3 oil, those are completely different animals not for seadoo jet ski.
And stay away from "universal" 2-stroke oil, it's gotta be a low ash API-TC, definitely not TCW-3
It's either "low ash" or it's not. A little info FWIW, the "low-ash" detergent package of API-TC 2-stroke oil is for hot running engines like motorcycles, chainsaws and the 2-stroke seadoos need this same "low ash" package too. It, contains metal salts that aren't considered as environmentally friendly to aquatic life as the hydrazine TCW-3 outboard oil, and there's the rub that caused enviro-friction (pun intended).. EPA doesn't like API-TC in watercraft but the seadoos must have it just like a ferrari must have good oil intended for the conditions.
And BTW, don't mix TCW with API-TC in the same container, they'll congeal, ie: turn to jell, clogging the injection system.
Since your isn't a RAVE seadoo, you don't HAVE TO use the full-syn XPS-2, you can use the lower priced XPS-2 blend or the XPS-2 mineral (except mineral was discontinued AFAIK) but full syn XPS-2 is more than fine.
If they labeled this oil e-tec, that's a marketing term seadoo likes to propagate across product lines, it's not an informative term and in this case causes more confusion where there already is way too much confusion. They should be proud of e-tec though, the technology of the high performance fuel-injectd 2-strokes was and still is, an achievement.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Wow,
A+++!
BTW, I rue the day someone puts this API-TC oil in their $20,000 Johnson e-tec then realizes their mistake too late.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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