Engine temp alarm - reduced power - only happens once a ride - help please.

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I want to ask again which is overheating, the engine or the exhaust? These are two separate and independent cooling loops. OP posted temp data of 70C and over 100C, nobody responded with their results. Ii sounds like engine is overheating, nothing to do with exhaust cooling being plugged.

 

[Hacks]

I want to ask again which is overheating, the engine or the exhaust? These are two separate and independent cooling loops. OP posted temp data of 70C and over 100C, nobody responded with their results. Ii sounds like engine is overheating, nothing to do with exhaust cooling being plugged.

Truth is, I am not 100% sure.

I does not look like its the engine, I mean the white smoke seems to be coming from the back on the engine bay. My first thought was to replace the coolant as I had no idea how long it had been in the ski.
Its got brand new coolant 50/50 from Prestone. I checked levels after I replaced it and all seems good. I don't seem to be missing any and the coolant is not boiling.

The temp readings I was getting were from the ETEMP mode on the ski, if I understand correctly that seems to be the exhaust temp? correct me if iam wrong... anyway, reading on that side are good now.

In your opinion, what else can I check to verify that it is or is not the engine that's heating.

Heres a summary of whats been done:

checked oil - looked a little full (will take a picture and post)
checked and replaced coolant - prestone 50/50
checked hoses for leaks - small leak from the exhaust cooling hose (muffler to back of ski)
did a back wash of the exhaust cooling
cleared with pressure the intercooler and the feed line to intercooler

so far that's it.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Hmm, E-TEMP is external air temp sensor failure on the older 2-stroke models..... Is there a fault number given?

Generally speaking, if you lay your hand on something in the engine compartment it shouldn't be so hot it immediately burns you but might be hot enough to be uncomfortable.

Maybe the problem isn't related to overheating or the cooling system but something else. I'll read back through.

 

[AircraftDoc]

If your speed is good, then your rpm is good too? Does it wane?
Cavitation would happen at takeoff. How is the ski out of the hole? It should yank you at the grips.

 

[Hacks]

And it does, but not as much as it did on the first 2 rides I had with it.

It goes up to 60 no problem but has a harder time getting to 70 (or close). Its like if iam missing some power that I had.

The first 2 rides, I had no alarms at all. Its really weird, between the temp alarm when I floor it or do quick turns, the 7550-7600rpm and the and drop in power/rpm when at full throttle.

Could it be sensor/ecu related... would that affect cruising RPM?

The drop in rpm at high speed could be bad gas or something I suppose, it feels like if the ski was running a little rough, but only at full throttle.

The only common thing that all these things have in common is that they happen at full throttle...

again, anything.

ill be sure to check oil and lines Monday, but I think if theirs nothing all call the shop.

I brought it there 3 days ago to get another key done (lost my key on lake while teaching my sister), and the tech saw no codes on the ski...

mike, again thanks for the help.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

No codes, may have lost some top end RPM/acceleration engine not performing. - Some of these were fitted with air filters in the air intake, I'm wondering if it's been replaced and the new one isn't a seadoo part but a close facsimile might be too restrictive? Pretty sure I've read some 4-tecs have run into this but might be the supercharged models....

Of course you've probably already replaced the spark plugs.

There's also the possibility nothing's wrong?

I wouldn't blame bad fuel unless the fuel stinks like it's bad and is beyond a year old, bad fuel can varnish intake/exhaust valve stems and detonate. Detonation will cause the MPEM's knock sensor to detect knock and thus retard ignition timing, knock count and perhaps ignition timing can be monitored while riding by using a diagnostic scanner, as well as the output and input values of the other various sensors and actuators.

I think this is a link to the shop manual, perhaps this will help.

www DOT seadoomanuals DOT net/download/pdf/service/manuals/2005/2005-seadoo-rotax-1503-4-tech-shop-manual.pdf

If your engine has been grossly overheated, that can damage the engine oil thus it should be changed.

 

[Hacks]

I was surprised to. Its given like 7 high temp warnings since the codes were last cleared (1 month ago).
As stated, I did change the plugs 5hrs ago. but I will check them on Monday when I go see the ski.

I have the manual and the supercharge version, their nothing specific on my issues. Its why I called upon the forum. I was hopping someone had had the same issue.

About the fuel, I had heard that if you put regular gas in a supercharged seadoo it will run incredibly rough. Cant say that I have done that, but I was more thinking impurity's or water in the gas.

There's definitely still a problem, its not normal that it heats up so quick. I mean ive heard of the supercharged engine not doing 8000 RPM but never as low as 7550-7600.

Anyway, I think all call the shop on Monday. Hopefully they will be able to solve this for me.

All check the oil and plugs first tho and let you all know.

 

[AircraftDoc]

While you have the Supercharger hose off, check to see if you can spin it with your finger. If the clutch is worn it will be loose and vary your rpm.

 

[Hacks]

So i checked everything that was said and there was no problems. So I took it to the shop and the mechanic called and told me that this was the fault of the hose that comes into the supercharger.. The hose had a big kink in it and it was progressively getting worse. He explained that this would cause the lack in rpm as the sc is not putting out full booster and the fact that the engine overheats is cause it has to work that much harder to get and receive from the sc... The hose from bombardier is 220$ can.... But is simple to replace...

I'll let you all know if it solves my problem but it sounds like it will.

Thanks to everyone on the help.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Sounds reasonable so I'll go along with that, for now.

 

[AircraftDoc]

Let us know.

 

[Hacks]

Final update: went to the shop to pick it up, turns out it was the rubber exhaust pipe that they replaced. Seeing the new one, I can now tell that the old one was bad. Took the ski out for final testing and it does 70mph @ 7750rpm. Best of all its not overheating anymore. Good enough for me.

Thanks to all that assisted me, learned a lot.

Cheers Mike.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

So the exhaust hose was delaminated internally and causing higher than normal back pressure? If yes, that sounds very reasonable.

 

[Hacks]

Ya, and restraining the water. That's what caused the heating of the exhaust.

 

[3ftDeep]

Thanks for the update! It's probably the same problem my old 2003 GTX 185 had (before it died a horrible death).

 

[Hacks]

Thanks for the update! It's probably the same problem my old 2003 GTX 185 had (before it died a horrible death).

Just curious, how did it die?

 

[3ftDeep]

About 1,000 ft before the end of a long open-water stretch, the pump took in water and lost the bearings and other "guts" into the ocean. The pressure from the impeller forced the drive shaft toward the engine and unsealed the carbon ring seal. Water flooded into the hull and to make a long story short, it choked on salt water. The thing that killed it was continuing to ride it a bit with water in the engine which caused the oil to mix improperly. The inner engine "bearings" failed, spreading metal debris in the engine. Then it was dead. The good news is a marine mechanic bought it and rebuilt the engine, so I guess it was "reborn". He changed the seat, though, so it didn't quite look the same after that.

 

[Hacks]

About 1,000 ft before the end of a long open-water stretch, the pump took in water and lost the bearings and other "guts" into the ocean. The pressure from the impeller forced the drive shaft toward the engine and unsealed the carbon ring seal. Water flooded into the hull and to make a long story short, it choked on salt water. The thing that killed it was continuing to ride it a bit with water in the engine which caused the oil to mix improperly. The inner engine "bearings" failed, spreading metal debris in the engine. Then it was dead. The good news is a marine mechanic bought it and rebuilt the engine, so I guess it was "reborn". He changed the seat, though, so it didn't quite look the same after that.

Ya, wow. That sucks. Well at least there's a happy ending lol. I still can't believe seadoos don't come with bilge pumps... Anyway.

Again thanks for the help everyone.

 

[dcm0123]

Final update: went to the shop to pick it up, turns out it was the rubber exhaust pipe that they replaced. Seeing the new one, I can now tell that the old one was bad. Took the ski out for final testing and it does 70mph @ 7750rpm. Best of all its not overheating anymore. Good enough for me.

Thanks to all that assisted me, learned a lot.

Cheers Mike.

HI-
I have the same problem on my 2005 RXT but it only happened once to date and stayed on for about 30 seconds. Can you please tell us which segment of the rubber exhaust pipe was replaced? A part number would help if you have it even if not for mine so I can see what it looks like.
Thank you

 

[Hacks]

HI-
I have the same problem on my 2005 RXT but it only happened once to date and stayed on for about 30 seconds. Can you please tell us which segment of the rubber exhaust pipe was replaced? A part number would help if you have it even if not for mine so I can see what it looks like.
Thank you

I don't have the part number on hand but its the part of the hose that goes from the muffler to the resonator.... I don't have a resonator on mine so that tube goes from the muffler all the way out to the back of the ski... You'll see, its the big black 4" rubber hose at the back of the jet ski. It's right behind the engine.

Edit: part number 274001101

 

[dcm0123]

Thank you!

 

[Hacks]

Thank you!

Np. PM me if you have any other questions.