Drive Line seals and Boots

[Gene-D]

I got this Doo with the engine out. The drive shaft was still in the Doo.
I pulled the pump and was looking at the drive hookup and how to align the engine.
Looking at the picture of the driveline, I am missing the #18 O-rings.
Part#5 is pressed onto the drive shaft( part#3).
Part#9(boot) clamps to part#10 on one end and to the hull on the other end.
Now the problem. The driveshaft diameter is .870 but the hole in part#10 is 1.090. Thats almost a 1/4 inch difference. It sure looks like I would sink If I put this into the water.
I drew a blue line where water would come in.
Are those O-ring really that big or am I missing something else?

Plus I have not figured out how to align the engine.

 

[Chester]

The #18 o-rings are inside the #5 collar and once everything is installed, it will be OK. It's called a floating carbon seal. You will need an alignment tool to properly align the engine.
Also, if #6 is still an o-ring, replace it with an update C-clip part # 272-000-135.

Chester

 

[Gene-D]

I like "floating"

Thanks.
So #5 is pressed on with the O-rings in the hole, got it.
I hope you are right about that floating part, I'll order a new clip and O-rings.

I want to make my own alignment tool. I am thinking the engine has to be aligned to the pump?
I watched a video of someone using an alignment tool. They showed the PTO and had their hand at the back of the pump and was pushing a alignment tool in and out of the PTO. I don't see how that will work without tearing down the pump. I was thinking there was a bearing or more back there.
What do I align to?

 

[djredman99]

I hope you are right about that floating part, I'll order a new clip and O-rings.

You will learn to trust whatever Chester tells you. He is a pro.

 

[Gene-D]

Yes Yes I see Chester is correct

I see parts #5 and #10 press against each other and seal


I see the pump needs torn down to align the engine.
I am making an alignment tool that bolts onto where the pump bolts on.
Kinda a mock pump.

 

[PWCdoc]

No, the collar is not pressed onto the shaft, it just slides on. You should be able to slide the collar to the rear of the shaft slightly, remove either the o-ring or c-clip, then slide the collar off the shaft towards the front. Unless it is so chummed up with rust that you have to press it off.

And as Chester stated, replace the o-ring collar retainer with an updated c-clip if it has not been done so already.

When you reinstall the parts, a light coating of waterproof grease goes a long way to making it easy.

 

[Gene-D]

Done-Thanks for help

It already had a c-clip in it. I took it apart, replaced the one o-ring, and put some lithium grease on it.
After I put the engine back into the ski, will the shaft install from the engine side, or pump side?
It looks like there will be enough room to install from engine side with the carbon seal, collar and clip, and front boot already installed.
If not- shaft will be installed from pump end and these pcs will be installed then.

 

[Rampage]

Just to add a little info for you...this is what I went through with my carbon seal. Also I found it much easier to install the drivshaft on the motor side first then put the pump on..

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=33259

 

[Gene-D]

I will check my mounts.

So the problem the entire time was your engine shifting, and the drive shaft was not spinning the pump?
What side slipped the PTO or the pump?
I would not think a bad carbon seal would cause much cavitation?
I hope you don't have damage to any of those drive parts.
Thank you for the story.

 

[Rampage]

So the problem the entire time was your engine shifting, and the drive shaft was not spinning the pump?
What side slipped the PTO or the pump?
I would not think a bad carbon seal would cause much cavitation?
I hope you don't have damage to any of those drive parts.
Thank you for the story.

It was just the carbon seal was not perfectly matched with the plate...so everytime I hit the throttle it just sucked air.....and yes just the carbon seal will cause that much cavitation....and when not on the throttle water comes back the other way...and in my case very very fast....my ski almost sunk. Neither was slipping. We put new motor mounts in and made sure Alignment ws good and it was fine ever seance....well untill The carbon seal broke one day but thats another story LOL!!

Well here is the other part of my carbon story

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=36675

 

[Gene-D]

I will be very very careful with my carbon setup then.

I am going to precision grind the carbon seal and the collar.
I like Dr. Honda's idea about the tie stiffining the collar boot.
I have asked on the forum about engine alignment.
Did you remove the pump, tear the impeller out and align with the open pump bolted on?

 

[Rampage]

I am going to precision grind the carbon seal and the collar.
I like Dr. Honda's idea about the tie stiffining the collar boot.
I have asked on the forum about engine alignment.
Did you remove the pump, tear the impeller out and align with the open pump bolted on?

Nope...replaced all the motor mounts, and made sure to leave the factory shims in there same place. Then slid the motor back and forth untill it looked like a nice perfect seal...then tightened everything down...It was perfect untill a big chunk of the carbon broke out....I think it had weakend from my first issue. You can see plain as day if everything is not streight.