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do these add up

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Hi all,
it said a solars impeller will add 1-2 mph
a great will add 1-2 mph
a 4'' air intake will add 1-2 mph
am i lookin at 1-2 mph or 3 to 6 mph
thanks gents
 
I can't answer your question but have to ask, unless you are doing competitive racing, why do you want to spend that money to squeeze out 1-2 mph? what speed are you getting now?

I get 63 on the speedo (never measureed what it really is with a gps) on my stock GSX, I can't imagine 2mph making a difference and I would not want to go 70mph, I'm hanging on for dear life at 63
 
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2004 RXP new impeller and ring coming this week--torn up pretty good,
70 was the best i ever got out of it, didnt buy the great or air intake
was just wondering how sensitive the parts were,
was wondering if there was an edge with the wones i ride with:seeya:
 
Several people I know attest to the intake grate, prop, and intake adding a bit over a mph each, minimum.

I just did the closed course (not the high speed intake grate) and 4" intake, along with filled ride plate holes. We shall see how it does come spring.
 
thanks Carguy89, that answers my question,
throw a little into it now and a little later and your doing 80:D

I can confidently say been there, done that! It's a lot of fun and is less of a headache if you find out all the tips and tricks before starting. Where about in NY are you located if you don't mind me asking?
 
1hsv1976,

I used Loc-Tite two part Marine epoxy. Some have even used JB Weld. On the plate I used a small piece of string around the bolt's heads first. It enables you to remove the epoxy easier if you want to later swap out plates.

Do yourself a favor at that time...flush the grate to your plate.

70.jpg
 
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Hi all,
it said a solars impeller will add 1-2 mph
a great will add 1-2 mph
a 4'' air intake will add 1-2 mph
am i lookin at 1-2 mph or 3 to 6 mph
thanks gents

Adding a taller prop and a "top loading" grate...without increasing the hp of your otherwise stock motor will cost you speed.

Start things off with a 4" front air in place of the restrictive oem intake. This will enable your ski to breath easier and increase hp. Increases of 100-150rpm over stock is not unheard of. Or....build/buy yourself a rear air set up and see even more.

Now..what are you gonna do with the extra rpm? Your ecu will cap your rpms at 8100-8150 or so. So...being on the limiter already an increase in hp will net you 0. So....you need to incease the load on your motor and use the extra hp you'll have. A tweeked oem prop would be the next logical choice. Why?...cost you maybe $30 for the prop removal tool...and you can do the work yourself.

The grate now is another story. They are all a drag...literally. They are a benefit to those only who are running more power and or are running in rough water and want to maintain speed better..ie lessen the effect of becoming unhooked.

I have about the least expensivly modded ski that I know of...I've spent a lil over $1500 for an increase of 6mph.

One last thing....the ski you have has a flaw. You'll only ever see high mph numbers on flat water. The tunnel allowing water to your prop will not allow you to run fast in any kind of rough water. Bombardier addressed that when they made the RXP-X boats.
 
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If the ECU will not let the RPMs go over 8100 then how can a increse of 100 to 150 RPMs ever be seen? (quote Increases of 100-150rpm over stock is not unheard of)
the motor will never show it the ECU will never let the tac show it,
I am doing a stage one kit with the same prop they call to use on a stock ski
I need the next prop pitch up if I am still turning 8100 I need more pitch
 
Hi red 2 blue what mods did you do to get extra 6mph on what ski

'05 RXT 2*wedge, skegs, reverse bucket mod, blocked up opas, flushed and filled Riva grate and oem plate, free-flo exhaust, Redneck Engineering rear air, Solas 14/19+2 and an old S3 wheel on a rebuilt charger.

72.7mph @ 8050rpm
 
If the ECU will not let the RPMs go over 8100 then how can a increse of 100 to 150 RPMs ever be seen? (quote Increases of 100-150rpm over stock is not unheard of)
the motor will never show it the ECU will never let the tac show it,
I am doing a stage one kit with the same prop they call to use on a stock ski
I need the next prop pitch up if I am still turning 8100 I need more pitch

As the ski approaches the rev limiter the ecu retards the timing...or some such. Try this...on a cool day...60 or so...water about the same temp and like glass. You got fresh gas and plugs...oil right between the bends. 3 bars of fuel.

You hit it...wot, ski jumps to 6500...rises to 8000 in no time...creeps to 8150 and bounces back and forth from 8100 to 8150...why? Ecu.

So...what happens?...how do you use the extra rpms that are waiting for you? Increase the load on the drive. The ski will still go to 8100 or so...but because you've increased the pitch of say, your prop...you're now going 70mph at 8100 instead of 68-69mph @ 8100.

It drove me crazy when I first started out...did all this extra stuff to clean up my hull...no measurable difference. Beefed up my air...still nothing. I had to tweak my prop to see where all the work had gone. Then...because beating stock ski's wasn't enough...I had to get a gps...so that I could finally understand exactly how minute changes could effect the numbers.
 
Another way to think on this...because fankly I don't know that you're already on the limiter like I was before starting to mod my ski...

Lets say you're seeing 69mph @ 8100-8150 on an other wise stock ski and oem speedo/tach read out. I'd say you're on the limiter.

But what if you are seeing 68mph @ 8000. I'd say you aren't on the limiter and will see immeadiate improvement from just an air intake imrovement.

See?

You really need to log all data before, during and after you test. It's very difficult to advise someone without knowing specifics such as air and water conditions...fuel load, oil level, weight of driver, altitude, barometric pressure, relative humidity.

All these factors come into play especially when you start adding bigger wheels, external intercoolers, fuel injectors, fuel regulators, set back pump mods ect.
 
yes all makes cents now I am running 8100 its like a boat load the motor with the prop
untill you get the RPMs you want,I am almost done with my air intake and it is
second to none true out side air, been taking pics along the way, front and back air intakes are about the same size witch means --with the vacume inside the hull it is pulling about the same air flow from both ports all based on pressure witch means your sucking very warm air much warmer then out side, black pain job its cooking in there, Any intercooler can only cool so much, an intercooler pulling out side air can only cool to lake temp. paint job will look much like 2011 RXP-X , from the bumpers up will be new
some decales and a different seat a bit more red.
 
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looks good to me, I wanted to go off my rear air intake hole
but i thought i may suck water from there the front offered
all of 4'' with out the water hazard
 
That is the trade off. If i flip my ski the chance of water ingestion is very real. 4" up front is a very good and safe improvement over stock......but you see better performance from a rear air intake. Cooler air...shorter path to the sc.
 
yes your right there but there was a problem with that on my 04
1-- there is a breather tube from my seperator that draws off of the intake
#2--the factory has a box 2''X3'' with wires and fins right buy the intake mouth
that air passes past on the way to th SC witch was ment to be cooled
I reinstalled mine wate to you see this, Clear 4" line so I can see the air pass through!!!!!!!!!
 
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yes your right there but there was a problem with that on my 04
1-- there is a breather tube from my seperator that draws off of the intake
#2--the factory has a box 2''X3'' with wires and fins right buy the intake mouth
that air passes past on the way to th SC witch was ment to be cooled
I reinstalled mine wate to you see this, Clear 4" line so I can see the air pass through??????????

Most just zip tie the rectifier to their new intake or do like I did and leave that section alone. That way the bungies around the gas tank stay tight.

re your "clear" 4" intake hose. I hope it's strong enough to handle the suction that your sc is going to be applying to it when you are at wot.
 
I bought it at a wood working store, its a vac hose for saw dust
good for a lot more then my SC can put out
does anyone no how much longer the trim controle rod is
im insalling my wedge plate and wanted to make one up?
also i never got a tool kit--cant even find a place(cavity) were it would go?
 
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Heh...beware that 4" clear dust hose on your ski. Your supercharger moves a lot more air than a vacuum cleaner. If that hose collapses.....you won't be happy.

Dunno where an rxp stores a tool kit...mines under the rear seat.

You shoulda got an extension with that wedge....1/4"-1/2" long...male on one side, female on the other.
 
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