Degree setting

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hal5778

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Hi I have a 1996 Seadoo Sportster with a single 717 motor and need to know the correct degree setting of the. rotary valve wheel. I have been told 3 different setting of 130,147 and 159 and would only like to do this precedure once. The rotary valve wheel is a 159 degree if this helps determine the proper degree setting
 
159 is the degree of your rotary valve but not how you time it.

You can download the manual for free and even print a paper degree wheel from the manual. Just follow it step by step and don't trust any marks already on the cases or what you read online.

Also remember that the rotary valve is eccentric so if you flip it over it will change the timing a couple degrees.
 
Hello Mikidymac glad to hear from you again I understand the 159 issue but just need to know if I should use 130 or 147 on my degree wheel or even be shown where I can get the correct info online
 
The manual is your best bet but I will see if I can explain it as you do not use the 159 degree.

1. Make sure the front piston is at TDC.
2.Put your degree wheel on and align the Zero line with the bottom edge of the front intake port.
3. Follow the degrees counterclockwise and make a marker mark on the cases at 147 degrees. It should be up around 11 o clock.
4.Do not rotate the crank or rotary shaft.
5. Reposition the degree wheel so the zero degree mark is aligned with the top of the front intake port this time.
6. Mark a spot in the cases at 65 degrees going clockwise from zero.
7. Remove the degree wheel without turning the rotary shaft or crank.
8. Install your rotary valve and it should align with your two marks.

If it does not you can flip it over and it will change a couple degrees. Just put it whatever side is closest to your marks. It might not be perfect but just get as close as possible to your 2 marks. The factory tolerance is + or - 5 degrees.

Make sure you put a little 2-stroke oil on both sides of the valve for lubrication before you seal it up.

You are only using API-TC 2-stroke oil correct????
 
I will try your directions tomorrow and let you know how it turns out. I will also let you know about the oil issue as well I believe I am using just a good grade 2 stroke oil
 
Please verify as you can't just use regular TCW-3 outboard oil in these like Yamaha and Kawasaki use.
 
Will check this issue as well. I have another issue that has be stumped. This same boat I bought with the motor being hydrolocked I pulled the motor and drained and flushed out all the water and contaminated oil using a gas/oil mixture like you recommended. I reinstalled the motor and it started but when I accelerate the motor seems to bogg down like it is starving for fuel and seems to have a knocking sound to it. I have done the following but non have made a difference.

1. drained all fuel and added fresh fuel as a premix
2. disabled the oil pump
3.Compression in both cylinders is 150 and have new plugs br8hs-10
4. Had carbs rebuilt by supposedly an expert
5. checked rotary valve and set to 147
6. Ran motor on an external fuel supply connected directly to the carbs
7. Checked for good spark at plugs even switched the plug wires which seemed to make no difference in how the motor ran

I have NO idea where to go from here
 
Those are the wrong plugs and are too short so the spark is happening up in the head instead of the combustion chamber.

You need BR8ES.
 
Yes I apologize for saying BR8HS I actually have the BR8ES in the motor. I tried the timing procedure you told me to follow today and still have the issue of the motor bogging down when I increase the throttle. I did notice that the plugs when I pulled them out were pretty wet as if they were not firing or a weak spark was present. I changed the coil with a used one I bought on ebay awhile back is it possible with the issue I have it is a weak spark problem or possibly a poor ground on the coil?
 
I agree about the carbs, sounds like thw plugs are wet with fuel thus likely the metering valves are leaking. B/C I'm curious usually looking for confirmation before digging into stuff, I'd confirm pop-off pressure just before tearing into them.
 
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