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Ok.... well i was just curious. Mine don’t seem to make any noise. One seems to spin kinda harder than the others is all. I think I might try to soak them in some solvent for a bit and see if it loosens it up and change the outer bearings then and see what that gets me.

Actually what it looks like is the Bering that’s a little harder to spin is the bearing that it seems like that gear is pushed up against so I guess I’ll try to slide that gear out with my bearing separators and see if that will free it up
 
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Just be careful not to damage the inner crank seal.

Also if you remove the double outer bearings make sure to very precisely measure the space between them as it is critical.
 
If you're crafty you can machine/grind/file a spacer to just fit. There is a procedure in the manual on how to install the bearings, do not just press them on.
 
Ok another question. How difficult is it to replace the connecting rod bearings on the crank? It looks like when I take the outside bearings off that I should somehow be able to press out that rod that holds the pin which holds the connecting rod on....
 
You are asking for trouble taking the crank apart. Outer bearings is one thing. Don’t take the webs apart. You won’t be able to true it or get it back correctly.
 
I'll make it easy, just get a reman crank. If there is any shadow of a doubt in the bearings (sounds like there is) just replace the crank.
 
I’m not gonna taje the webs apart. I’m just wanting to do everything I can do to replace the outer bearings on the crank and possibly the connecting rod bearings.
 
To do the rod bearings you have to pull the webs. And you would have to replace the rods not just the bearings.

Honestly it’s not worth it because the inner bearings and seals are worn too so not much point in just doing the outers.
 
As racerxxx said any questions just replace the crank if you are going to keep the ski. For a quick flip is the only time I would ever recommend just some outer bearings if they were obviously bad.
 
NO DO NOT MESS WITH THE ROD. You have to have special tools and equipment to true the crank. Just replace the outer bearings if anything. If you remove the webs and rods you will not get it back true. Don’t do it.
 
Ok here’s what I’m gonna do. I’m gonna give it a try replacing the connecting rod bearings by pressing out that rod. I’m one of those guys that can think a bit and work something out. If it doesn’t workout... oh well I’ll get a different one. It just seems like you should be able to press out that silver rod on the journal is all
 
Well, this will be my last attempt to stop you from doing it.....

You can press it out but you need a big press.
You will also need new rods, rod bearings and pins, you can't reuse any of the three.
You will have to heat the webs and freeze the pin. Even then if you don't have the correct spacers and jigs when you press in the new pin you risk moving the inner webs and other pin.
Assuming you have aligned everything perfectly, not changed the depth and alignment of any of the other webs and pins and pressed the outer web on perfectly straight you will still need a set of precision V-Blocks and dial indicator to true the crank.

FYI: Properly truing a multi-cylinder crank is an art and takes years of practice and precision equipment to master.

So can it be done? Technically yes.
Can it be done as a DIY project correctly? No.
Would I let even a good local machine shop touch a seadoo crank? No.
There are only 3 places I would trust to rebuild one of my cranks.
#1 Seadoo OEM.
#2 Crankworks.
#3 SBT.

Also if you damage the crank most places will not give you the core credit on it.

If you still decide to do it please post pictures and a thread on it.
 
All I’m wanting to do is replace the needle bearings for the connecting rod, I shouldn’t have to replace the connecting rod itself nothing is wrong with that
 
Are we talking about the same bearings?

I am talking about the lower rod bearings on the crank.
Are you talking about the upper ones for the piston pin?
 
Yeah I’m referring to the lower rod bearings. It just seems that you should be able to press out that rod that goes through the journal
 
The pin will be damaged from pushing it out and the roller bearings wear to the rod and pin so no and again you can’t just replace the bearings. They develop wear patterns and have to be replaced as a set.

I have given you the correct answer numerous times but you still are adamant about doing it wrong.
At this point go for it and let us know when it throws the rod through the cases. Just trying to save you from headache and expenses down the road.
 
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