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Damaged exhaust manifold o-ring surface
- Thread starter jborr8
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Ckrawiec
Well-Known Member
Well, considering that the oval hole is part of the water jacket around the exhaust, it'll leak.
Obviously, the best course of action is to replace the part.
Me, i'd probably try to rebuild the edge with JB Weld epoxy and grind it smooth with a dremel....I've done silly stuff like that with success on other things but I've never had to do an exhaust part like this from a jet ski, so I can't attest to any level of success you might have if you tried.
Obviously, the best course of action is to replace the part.
Me, i'd probably try to rebuild the edge with JB Weld epoxy and grind it smooth with a dremel....I've done silly stuff like that with success on other things but I've never had to do an exhaust part like this from a jet ski, so I can't attest to any level of success you might have if you tried.
Ckrawiec
Well-Known Member
Just out of curiousity...why were you taking the exhaust system apart? You threw the word "carb" in your original post and I said to myself..." self -> you don't need to remove the exhaust pipes to get to the carbs". Of course, makes more room, but taking the exhaust system apart is a real PITA from what I've read....have personally never done it myself though, never had to.
I wouldn't JB weld on the exhaust. Those parts can't be that expensive can they??
What year model uses the rubber O-ring type seal? I have a few of these but they are on engines I plan on rebuilding I guess I don't need them.
I surely would not JB weld that section because there isn't room to put enough material to make it as strong as it needs to be.. Still.... I don't think you have an issue if it is just that one broken piece I see. Where is the water going to go?
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LikeabossTM
Active Member
I'd be concerned that epoxy (jbweld) wouldn't stand up to the heat for long, however, if you want to try it to see how long it will last, here's what I'd do...
... fill that whole corner so that you're creating a plug that covers the entire broken area, versus trying to rebuild just the walls. Yes, you're losing a little cooling capacity but not enough to matter, I believe. The JB will have much more surface area to adhere to.
I'd cut a little plastic piece off a milk jug and tie some dental floss through a hole in it. Use that as a backing for your JB so you don't fill the pipe chamber. Bend it in to where you are making the plug then pull it tight to the bottom surface with the dental floss and tie it off. The jb won't stick to plastic so when you're done you grab the plastic with some pliers and pull it out. The floss will stay embedded in the repair, who cares.
Then file down there repair area so it's flat.
Hard to describe and I don't know if I'd bother versus replacing the pipe, but here's a toddler's description in picture.
Yellow is the entire area I'd JB after creating and inserting and tying off the plastic and floss dam as shown in white ( you put the dam under where you're repairing before you start to keep the cavity from getting filled).
... fill that whole corner so that you're creating a plug that covers the entire broken area, versus trying to rebuild just the walls. Yes, you're losing a little cooling capacity but not enough to matter, I believe. The JB will have much more surface area to adhere to.
I'd cut a little plastic piece off a milk jug and tie some dental floss through a hole in it. Use that as a backing for your JB so you don't fill the pipe chamber. Bend it in to where you are making the plug then pull it tight to the bottom surface with the dental floss and tie it off. The jb won't stick to plastic so when you're done you grab the plastic with some pliers and pull it out. The floss will stay embedded in the repair, who cares.
Then file down there repair area so it's flat.
Hard to describe and I don't know if I'd bother versus replacing the pipe, but here's a toddler's description in picture.
Yellow is the entire area I'd JB after creating and inserting and tying off the plastic and floss dam as shown in white ( you put the dam under where you're repairing before you start to keep the cavity from getting filled).
Ckrawiec
Well-Known Member
All good points...however.....I did not mean to imply straight KBWeld epoxy. JBWeld makes a malleable epoxy steel compound that you can mold into shapes...so taking a little piece of the product and rebuilding that little chip MIGHT work (after some careful grinding, etc...).I'd be concerned that epoxy (jbweld) wouldn't stand up to the heat for long, however, if you want to try it to see how long it will last, here's what I'd do...
... fill that whole corner so that you're creating a plug that covers the entire broken area, versus trying to rebuild just the walls. Yes, you're losing a little cooling capacity but not enough to matter, I believe. The JB will have much more surface area to adhere to.
I'd cut a little plastic piece off a milk jug and tie some dental floss through a hole in it. Use that as a backing for your JB so you don't fill the pipe chamber. Bend it in to where you are making the plug then pull it tight to the bottom surface with the dental floss and tie it off. The jb won't stick to plastic so when you're done you grab the plastic with some pliers and pull it out. The floss will stay embedded in the repair, who cares.
Then file down there repair area so it's flat.
Hard to describe and I don't know if I'd bother versus replacing the pipe, but here's a toddler's description in picture.
Yellow is the entire area I'd JB after creating and inserting and tying off the plastic and floss dam as shown in white ( you put the dam under where you're repairing before you start to keep the cavity from getting filled).
That is an exhaust part for sure so it'll be subject to heat, BUT the chip is on the outboard side of the water jacket so it shouldn't be getting THAT hot if the water is flowing through the jackets.
Where might the water go IF he did nothing....maybe nowhere if we assume the gasket gets squashed into the cavities when it is re-assembled.....but water does have a way of getting into places where you don't really want it.....probably nothing to overly worry about as any small amount of water would then be exhausted out the pipe ( mini internal steam cleaner????? - but again, with a water cooled jacket how HOT would that area ever really be getting???? (I don't know)
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
This will only work if you have a JBWelding certificate. I think they're available on-line?
BTW, my bet is if you assemble with new o-ring, (jb weld optional), it will be fine. Using new bolts/studs/locking nuts is required in this location but they must fit properly to avoid creating new issues.
BTW, my bet is if you assemble with new o-ring, (jb weld optional), it will be fine. Using new bolts/studs/locking nuts is required in this location but they must fit properly to avoid creating new issues.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't JB weld on the exhaust. Those parts can't be that expensive can they??
What year model uses the rubber O-ring type seal? I have a few of these but they are on engines I plan on rebuilding I guess I don't need them.
I believe the o-ring began either 1999 or 2000? Seems like I remember 2000
That’s again for all the info guys this is my first jet ski and my first time taking one apart. I ordered a used manifold off eBay for $80 so I don’t have to worry about it. @sportster it is the o-ring style. What do you mean new nuts and bolts are required? The same ones can’t be used with some Loctite?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
There have been a rash of broken bolts and studs due to vibration harmonics, recycled ones are also more prone to backing out. The official suggestion is to replace this hardware and torque to spec.
If you decide to and can find some shouldered studs, I personally prefer them to bolts whenever possible although some frown on changes.
New nylon insert locknuts and lock washers (where applicable) will help to keep things from backing out as well.
This location has been a sore spot for many and the associated bracketry for the pipe is muy-importante.
The o-ring design was a big improvement so dare I say, the famous leaking issues were resolved.
Good luck, I have high confidence whatever you decide works well.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You're correct about not disassembling the PITA pipe for a carb rebuild. I see a head laying there on the table along with his manifold so I'm guessing it's completely torn down.
Ckrawiec
Well-Known Member
Yep I saw all that too...I'm kinda a literal guy.....I thought "carbs" ...no problem....don't need to mess with the exhaust...BUT he is obviously deeper into the doodoo on this one....I'm not going there anymore...I've reached that tipping point in my life (i'll be 60 soon) where....I've done many things in my "ute" that I now look fondly back upon and say..."be there, done that, never again".....buying NEW has a SPECIAL appeal these days.
Although....tinkering is in the blood....hahahaha! (as my wife rolls her eyes for the millionth time and curses under her breath!)
Although....tinkering is in the blood....hahahaha! (as my wife rolls her eyes for the millionth time and curses under her breath!)
Yea I saw some surface rust on the piston rings through the rave valves and got a little carried away lol. I couldn’t sleep at night wondering how the bottom end looked. @sportster do all bolts need to be replaced? Y manifold to engine bolts and pipe to Y manifold bolts?
Not saying it it the correct method but I have always reused the bolts with loctite and not had one fail.
Surface rust is really common on the 951 for a reason that has never been determined but it gets condensation in the engine more than any other. this is why I preach to fog your engines (especially a 951) after every ride.
Surface rust is really common on the 951 for a reason that has never been determined but it gets condensation in the engine more than any other. this is why I preach to fog your engines (especially a 951) after every ride.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I believe the only bolts it makes sense to replace are those 4 pipe bolts. You can probably skip it and do fine, however, there are some out there who insist they should be replaced.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Consider a compression test before opening the jumbo can of worms, if it tested 130psi it gets no better. A little surface rust is from lack of moisture protection, ie fogging., maybe you saw coking, hydrocarbon deposits? All 2-strokes will need rebuild at some point though, the 951 consensus is about 250hrs.
I know I should have done a compression test but I don’t have the equipment. I need to go out and buy one. I do wish I hadn’t torn it down considering that the “rust” wiped clean off with one rub. I’ve never been this far into a jet ski or any other machine for that matter. The rust just freaked me out. I bought the ski a month ago with 175 hrs from a guy who clearly was not good about maintaining the ski(using tc-w3 oil, filthy dirty raves, tempo fuel lines, blown out pulse line, dirty bilge.) I was nervous about the internal condition and went nuts hahaha. Now I have to put it all back together and hope for the best. I haven’t even been able to ride it once because of my need to know what’s inside. I know a rebuild is in my near future, I like what I see from full bore online. Probably going to wait till the top end goes and ship the whole thing out and get a fresh reman.
I will. In your opinion will the work that I have done help in any way to improve the short life span of the 951?
THe only thing that will really extend the life of a 951 is a clean fuel system, API-TC full synthetic oil and fogging after riding.
They make more power per cc than any of the other 2-stroke watercraft so that in itself relates to a shorter life. more performance=shorter life.
They make more power per cc than any of the other 2-stroke watercraft so that in itself relates to a shorter life. more performance=shorter life.
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