GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I mainly used 150 grit on prep, 80 will work if you have some heavy scratches you want to feather out, or when you work the foot wells over. I die grinded out and filled all 80+ rivet holes, then prepped for gelcoat. I recommend removing the rub rail, easy to reattach later. If rolling on, it needs at least 3 coats to hide the old because of the sanding to get it smooth. You'll see in my thread how I paced doing a section at a time and about a pint at a time. It sets up quick, ambient temp can impact application, not too cold or hot, just follow the mixing guidelines. I found out that a pint at a time is about right because you've got only about 10 min after added the MEKP before it gels.
Nothing is reusable, so cheap plastic pans and 4" rollers. Agitate with the drill, pour in the pan, mix the catalyst in, apply, then throw away the pan and roller, wait about 30-40 min then repeat for another coat. Next day start getting the waxy coating off, rough paper, wet sanding with 150 grit. Start working with 400 grit when pitting is minimal, then final sand up to 1500 to 2000. I used a 2" air sander ($22) that'll run all day set at 50 psi, assortment hook and loop pads are fairly cheap.
FGCI | Fiberglass Coatings sells brushable gelcoat, you'll need a gallon to do either a bottom or top, cost about $100, includes enough MEKP. I did both the top and bottom on the GTX, no amount of wet sanding could bring the brightness out on the white like a fresh coat does. My 96' GSX was really bad on top, so fresh coat on that one with the white also, bottom was partial down the middle. With a lot of patience the results are rewarding, it's like a new ski when done. From stripped to bare hull to on the water, took me a year on each ski, some overlap with the GTX and GSX when I did it. Good time to start is end of season and strive to be ready for the next season.
I don't want to paint but I have to.
