chanllenger 1800 driveshaft

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Already have pumps off.

BZZZZT wrong answer :lols:

put the pumps back on. ok to just hand tighten the nuts.

now climb in the boat.

remove the shield that protects the carbon seal/PTO at the back of the engine.
while the pumps are in place, push the floating ring against the carbon seal forcing the accordian boot to squish and move towards the rear of the boat.

move the floating ring rearward enough to expose the "C" clip

while holding the floating ring in that position with one hand, remove the "C: clip with a cotter key puller, or pick, or small screw driver. I suggest placing a towel or shop rag under the drive shaft to catch the "C" clip and any parts that drop when removing the drive shaft.

after the "C" clip is removed, unlock the SMALL oetiker clamp on the small end of the PTO BOOT... this rubber boot is at the PTO and on the drive shaft.

after unlocking the clamp, go ahead and remove the jet pump.

now reach in the tunnel and grab the driveshaft and slowly/steadily pull the shaft out of the boat. you will here the floating ring drop, and maybe the oetiker clamp fall from the boot... reach in the boat and grab them before they get lost.
NOTE how the orientation is of the oetiker clamp...

I suggest downloading a shop service manual for the correct torque specs and illustrations of the O rings, what needs to be greased, what DOES NOT get grease, etc etc...

good luck...:cheers:

see picture for PTO boot, oetiker clamps (large and small), floating ring, carbon seal and bellows (accordian boot)
 
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Thanks for the help! any ideas on getting the PTO off the motor. I have got the motor pulled and on the bench. i got a rag in the piston but unsure which way to turn it.
 
Just did mine last week righty tighty leftey loosely should come right off with steady pressure and a pipe wrech with a 4' pipe extention.!Good luck
 
I used an impeller installation tool in the PTO, long azz breaker bar and a pipe... be prepared to bust your balls and hang on for when it lets go... wow!
 
I was about to get it off after it strapped the motor down 8" pipe wrench and about a 8' cheater pipe. Will the impeller tool take that kind of pressure?
 
I was about to get it off after it strapped the motor down 8" pipe wrench and about a 8' cheater pipe. Will the impeller tool take that kind of pressure?

yessir, my solas impeller tool can handle it... I don`t know about those cheap knock offs found on fleabay tho...

I`d rather break an impeller tool then booger up the outside of the PTO hub and tear out the zerk...
 
Impeller tool, rope down the cylinder, breaker bar and a 3' pipe, done. Honestly, doing it in the hull is easier. Bolt the engine to some 2x4's.

If you use a pipe wrench remove the zerk fitting from the pto.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2
 
I got all that done and got the motor ready to ship back. The other motor is an original and was flooded to. Gonna replace with a new one. Is the old worth having rebuilt and selling or is it not worth the trouble?
 
I got all that done and got the motor ready to ship back. The other motor is an original and was flooded to. Gonna replace with a new one. Is the old worth having rebuilt and selling or is it not worth the trouble?

the old engine could be used as a core or for parts, I`d hang on to it if you plan on keeping the boat...

who is doing the rebuilding?
 
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