Challenger 2000 240 EFI Won't idle - Bad TPS?

[poppie]

Check the throttle linkage. Make sure it's not binding up and letting the throttle plates fully close.

 

[nenikol23]

I just looked on Ebay and nothing... i am looking to get back on the water nest week :/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/mercury-20...429479?hash=item36611b8ce7:g:5iEAAOSwhMFek30R
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Mercu...630628?hash=item420c1650e4:g:TtQAAOSw25Vdx75h

 

[Tim75]

@novafreak69 Like Tim75 said. I just bought two throttle bodies (different part numbers for throttle bodies but same part numbers for injectors) I needed the injectors. Turned out my TPS was bad too, very very hard to turn. The throttle bodies came with TPS sensors on them, took one of them, chopped the wires (different connector) and just used some waterproof connectors with shrink tubes. All set for under $300 (set of injectors and TPS)

@Tim75 --> After replacing my injectors (got them tested before putting them in, all good) replaced and adjusted TPS, installed all new gaskets and seals. Boat starts up and runs every-time however the RPM will sometimes be 1000 rpm, sometimes 3000 rpm...Tried to adjust the idle screw but still erratic every time I start it. Suggestions?

Hard to turn tps? That could cause your throttle to not return to idle. Same for throttle cable. Slop or binding. Cable not pulling linkage on engine to full idle.

Possible vacuum leaks: check all the small hoses around the block. These pull fuel from spots where it pools to be burned. A leak can cause a lean condition and higher than normal idle. I use tygon (small engine fuel) hose.

Idle rpm spec. is 1100.

 

[nenikol23]

@Tim75 You are on point. I had a vacuum leak. Took care of that and boat starts and runs better than ever since I owned it. Was about to take it to the dock when something else came up....I noticed slight smoke coming from under the flywheel when I turn off the engine. Added to that, a burning electronics smell....Is my stator on it's way out?

 

[novafreak69]

Sooo I may have found an alternative for that $500+ TPS sensor for only $150...

I come from a Drag racing background with various different types of EFI and other processor controlled functions and sensors. 2 Stroke 6 Cyl are new to me so I thank the people above for quickening my lerning curve.


I am looking at a line of TPS from a company called Variohm....


https://www.variohm.com/news-media/technical-blog-archive/throttle-position-sensor

I am researching them now... and will update with what I come up with...

 

[Tim75]

@Tim75 You are on point. I had a vacuum leak. Took care of that and boat starts and runs better than ever since I owned it. Was about to take it to the dock when something else came up....I noticed slight smoke coming from under the flywheel when I turn off the engine. Added to that, a burning electronics smell....Is my stator on it's way out?

Disconnect both pair of yellow wires from stator. Check resistance according to the book. Plug in one pair. Crank engine. Check output from regulator. Repeat for other regulator. Trying to isolate a bad reg.

 

[nenikol23]

Disconnect both pair of yellow wires from stator. Check resistance according to the book. Plug in one pair. Crank engine. Check output from regulator. Repeat for other regulator. Trying to isolate a bad reg.

Resistance checked between yellow wire pairs. OK

Note:
- battery sitting with the knob to OFF is at 12.6V
- battery sitting with the knob to ON is at 11.9V
- battery with engine running is at 11.9V (this indicates that no output is produced)

For your prior suggestion to check output from one regulator while the other is unplugged, at which wire do I check the output? The red/purple one right under the yellow pairs?

 

[Tim75]

Resistance checked between yellow wire pairs. OK

Note:
- battery sitting with the knob to OFF is at 12.6V
- battery sitting with the knob to ON is at 11.9V
- battery with engine running is at 11.9V (this indicates that no output is produced)

For your prior suggestion to check output from one regulator while the other is unplugged, at which wire do I check the output? The red/purple one right under the yellow pairs?

Output from reg is the red wire.

Ater engine has cooled off, feel the regs. Is one or both warm? It may be dead.

 

[nenikol23]

Very minimal/close to no output --> 0.1-0.3 Volts on the red bullet connector. Same for both regulators. What are the chances they both fried?

Ran the engine at idle for 30 sec, top reg was same temp while bottom one got pretty hot. Will order a pair from amazon and take it from there.

 

[Tim75]

Very minimal/close to no output --> 0.1-0.3 Volts on the red bullet connector. Same for both regulators. What are the chances they both fried?

Ran the engine at idle for 30 sec, top reg was same temp while bottom one got pretty hot. Will order a pair from amazon and take it from there.

If your reg's are still wired from the factory, they both charge the battery. If the battery develops an internal short, that can fry a reg. When one goes, the other is not far behind.

 

[nenikol23]

Replaced both regulators, no more electronics burning smell, battery Voltage goes up to 13.95V when engine running. Finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Currently re-wiring the trailer and will probably put it in the water this weekend to test it out.

Thank you all for your continuous input, I really appreciate it. @Tim75 Special thanks to you!