Carbon seal
- Thread starter Waterbug13
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Waterbug13
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devonte007
Active Member
I am pretty sure that is how they are supposed to be. The newer versions of stainless steel rings are bigger, give you more play. As long as the carbon ring fits into the bellows well, and the ID of the stainless steel ring is the same as the old one you are good. Remember the carbon ring is supposed to float on the shaft an not touch it. Only the stainless ring need to have proper clearance for orings on the shaft.
Since you have gone through the trouble to take this all apart I would also replace the bellows as well, they tend to loose their rubber 'spring' over time and you may not have a good seal. May also wish to replace the 2 orings inside the PTO oil seal, would suck to have an oil leak after you put it all back together.
Since you have gone through the trouble to take this all apart I would also replace the bellows as well, they tend to loose their rubber 'spring' over time and you may not have a good seal. May also wish to replace the 2 orings inside the PTO oil seal, would suck to have an oil leak after you put it all back together.
Waterbug13
Active Member
The ID is bigger on these then the ones I took off so I am stuck again with wrong parts. These I even told them I had the 155 min super charged and for some reason I always get the bigger super charged parts. Just my luck with this I guess. I am hoping they will do a exchange with me.
Thanks for the tip on the O rings I will look into that. I bet those are a beast to even see let alone change.
Sofla
Member
Hey guys... have either of you had any problems getting the shaft out to do the job. Im having a bad time with what seems to be a straightforward job.
First the allen head bolts are so stuck that i cant budge em ... even with an allen wrench in the hole and as tight vice grip.
Then once managing the whole assembly off, i see the ring seemingly fused to the shaft, cant move it to get to t the c clip. At present ive only managed to pull the shaft from the engine. Spilling what looked like ill oil anyway.
I had a drive line sound like as if i had a knock on the bottom of the boat.
Figured id service the bearings and seals and carbon ring. The pto assembly too i suppose.
Essentially all the relevant shaft and drive line related parts.
Get the shaft out and and you are practically there.. but i am afraid that I am not doing myself any favors by not asking for help before doing anything else.
Having trouble uploading pics
First the allen head bolts are so stuck that i cant budge em ... even with an allen wrench in the hole and as tight vice grip.
Then once managing the whole assembly off, i see the ring seemingly fused to the shaft, cant move it to get to t the c clip. At present ive only managed to pull the shaft from the engine. Spilling what looked like ill oil anyway.
I had a drive line sound like as if i had a knock on the bottom of the boat.
Figured id service the bearings and seals and carbon ring. The pto assembly too i suppose.
Essentially all the relevant shaft and drive line related parts.
Get the shaft out and and you are practically there.. but i am afraid that I am not doing myself any favors by not asking for help before doing anything else.
Having trouble uploading pics
devonte007
Active Member
If your problem is a fused/coroded stainless steel ring to the shaft, then you may end up cutting it off. You can try to use penetrating oil/heat over several days to see of that works. If not then get out the cutting wheel and have at it. If you plan on keeping the shaft then be careful, you do not want to cut into that. Might be able to cut most of the way through the ring, then take a hammer/cold chisel and snap it open.
If your shaft is corroded then just replace it, I replaced mine a few years ago. Bought an after market shaft for under $200 and was very happy with it. Working with rusty corroded stuff really sucks, just have patience. Wish you the best of luck.
If your shaft is corroded then just replace it, I replaced mine a few years ago. Bought an after market shaft for under $200 and was very happy with it. Working with rusty corroded stuff really sucks, just have patience. Wish you the best of luck.
C9R0J0
Active Member
I changed the carbon ring on my 180 a few weeks ago and the new parts were not the same as the old. As stated above this is just a new design. The pic you posted looks the same as what I used. As long as the ID of the stainless ring is the same you're good to go. The ID of the new carbon ring was much larger than the old.
beergut
Well-Known Member
I just did my carbon ring & seals on my speedster 155- the stainless ring has 2 O-rings and a tight fit on the shaft. the shaft is lose in the carbon ring- the carbon ring rides on the face of the stainless bushing- not a fun job by any means. I have the 3 special tools if you want to borrow them. (you pay the to / from shipping)
Sofla
Member
Is this an open offer that i could get with..
The tool offer i mean?
The tool offer i mean?
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