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carb rebuild and fuel line replacement cost
- Thread starter Brauls
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parts:
OEM official carb kit for dual carb roughly $150cdn from ebay (not sure if your doo is dual carb or single). automotive fuel lines and stainless steel clamps from local parts store is $30cdn.
Total $180+labour.
Labour:
Siphon fuel out of tank. remove tank. remove lines. clean fuel selector, filter. do carb job. install new lines. insert gas tank. add new gas incase old gas is reason for your initial problems.
***WARNING***
do not use aftermarket carb kit. That cost me and many others time and money. Had to get official oem carb kit after first attempt.
OEM official carb kit for dual carb roughly $150cdn from ebay (not sure if your doo is dual carb or single). automotive fuel lines and stainless steel clamps from local parts store is $30cdn.
Total $180+labour.
Labour:
Siphon fuel out of tank. remove tank. remove lines. clean fuel selector, filter. do carb job. install new lines. insert gas tank. add new gas incase old gas is reason for your initial problems.
***WARNING***
do not use aftermarket carb kit. That cost me and many others time and money. Had to get official oem carb kit after first attempt.
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Not sure if the mechanic intends on replacing all fuel lines, remove and clean fuel tank, selector and peripherals. If he can get all that for $650 that is a real good price. I just did that to two skis but I check a lot of other things and clean everything, paint the carbs, etc....
I purchased a Venom carb kit and had no problems with it. I also purchased a Mikuni kit for dual carbs. I have another ski with dual carbs to rebuild and I'll probably go back to Venom for that kit. I like doing my own work because that way I know what I got in the end. I clean the heck out of the carbs and the last set I prepped and alodined the carbs, then painted them. Trying to keep the corrosion at bay.... doing what I can. LOL Good Luck
I purchased a Venom carb kit and had no problems with it. I also purchased a Mikuni kit for dual carbs. I have another ski with dual carbs to rebuild and I'll probably go back to Venom for that kit. I like doing my own work because that way I know what I got in the end. I clean the heck out of the carbs and the last set I prepped and alodined the carbs, then painted them. Trying to keep the corrosion at bay.... doing what I can. LOL Good Luck
I just did two of these last summer. Here is a price breakdown for one ski:
1. 25' x 1/4" type A1 (in hull) fuel hose = $60
2. 20 x 1/4 SS hose clamps = $25
3. OEM carb kit (with filters, needles, and seats) = $120
4. New bulb fuel filter = $14
5. New selector switch = $45
6. 6-12 cabs of carb cleaner = $25
7. A weekend of your life = priceless
All in all, it is about $300 in parts. You can save some money (~$ 75) by using automotive fuel line, and not replacing the selector switch.
1. 25' x 1/4" type A1 (in hull) fuel hose = $60
2. 20 x 1/4 SS hose clamps = $25
3. OEM carb kit (with filters, needles, and seats) = $120
4. New bulb fuel filter = $14
5. New selector switch = $45
6. 6-12 cabs of carb cleaner = $25
7. A weekend of your life = priceless
All in all, it is about $300 in parts. You can save some money (~$ 75) by using automotive fuel line, and not replacing the selector switch.
Just keep in mind that automotive fuel line will not pass a coast guard or detainment of natural resources inspection. Also, there is no way to clean the yellow goo from the selector switch, without destroying the internal gaskets/ seals. So if you do not change the selector switch you could re-contaminate your carbs.
I totally agree with you in just replacing the fuel selector and strainer. Cheap insurance.
I do know here in the States the fuel system on these are exempt from the Coast Guard and it even says so on the sticker on the ski. In 30 years of being around skis and on the water here in California I have never once had any of my watercraft checked or inspected.
Good point, though i am surprised that they exempt PWCs from all aspects of the USCG; some obviously do not apply, but other parts (e.g. Ventilation, flame arresters, tank pressure testing, and fuel lines) seen to be basic safety items for in-hull applications.
With respect to inspections, I too have never had been inspected; however my brother got dinged on a private lake here in IL by the DNR for some trivial stuff; they kicked him off the lake. I guess it is like any regulatory body, they have enforcement discretion, which gives them the ability to overlook or overstep their assigned responsibilities based upon whether they like you or not.
With respect to inspections, I too have never had been inspected; however my brother got dinged on a private lake here in IL by the DNR for some trivial stuff; they kicked him off the lake. I guess it is like any regulatory body, they have enforcement discretion, which gives them the ability to overlook or overstep their assigned responsibilities based upon whether they like you or not.
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I wasn't sure what you were talking about with the issues on the carb using the aftermarket kit. I read something about the diaphragm being too stiff. The ski started fine before I rebuilt the carb. It gave me trouble immediately after the rebuild and changing the fuel lines. I thought it was because I installed the inline filter. I played with that a bit and it got easier to start and I learned what to do to get it running quickly but still a bit of an enigma. Before the rebuild, just pull out the choke and it fired up right away and kept running.
I ordered a new OEM diaphragm and I will replace it this week. If this makes a difference you'll have made a believer out of me.
honestly, I thought i purchased an OEM kit initially. That was my intent anyway.
Mainly the aftermarket diaphragms are the problem but I have also seen the clear fuel pump valves and the tiny clear check valve be too stiff in the aftermarket kits too. There just isn't a single part in the kits worth a crap. If I ever get the time I would love to offer a rebuild service for members but time is the one thing I don't have at the moment.
OSD has internal screws available. IMO OSD is the best place to get carb kits. You can ala carte what you need the parts are OEM and they have good prices. Plus they give you correct advise on rebuild. They also have viton tipped needles available. $650 is a fair price if he's doing it right and using the approved fuel line. I did two skis for a friend for $650 a few years ago. I didn't charge him much labor tho but I still made money. Went thru the fuel systems 100% for that price Oem carb kits from OSD new hoses new selectors new strainers and o rings.
For me at least, the socket style screws in the OSD kit were a lifesaver. I really had to wrench on mine to pass the pressure tests, and I couldn't have torque the slotted screw heads to that degree without stripping them.
Another problem I had was removing the internal set screws without the right screwdriver. As a result I ended up stripping about half of them during disassembly. Since the OSD kit only contains the exterior screws, I went to Fastenal and found socketed replacements.
Another problem I had was removing the internal set screws without the right screwdriver. As a result I ended up stripping about half of them during disassembly. Since the OSD kit only contains the exterior screws, I went to Fastenal and found socketed replacements.
Get a JIS screwdriver, it looks like a phillips but is actually Japanese Industrial Standard and that is what the carb screws are. You can tell because they have a small dimple on the head. I haven't stripped a single one since I got the correct screwdriver.
To loosen screws in carbs external or internal slotted or phillips. Place the screw driver in the screw and take a small or medium hammer holding the screw driver straight to the screw strongly tap downward on the end (handle) of the screw driver. Helps to have screw drivers with a shaft all the way thru the handle and a tap post on top but not necessary. I almost never have one like this handy and this technique always works. Give it a few good wacks. Sometimes I have to be fairly aggressive just be sure to secure the carb against something solid or put it in a vice in a way it won't get damaged or broken. Then take the screw out. Most of the time it doesn't take any effort. For really bad ones or if they've been badly stripped there is an impact tool you hit with a hammer that will take them out. Never had a screw in aluminum that wouldn't come out using these techniques.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...rWithBits.png/1200px-ImpactDriverWithBits.png
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...rWithBits.png/1200px-ImpactDriverWithBits.png
Chisel, Hammer, gouge, straight punch, and a lot of finesse. This is the end all be all of methods. When you use it.... you better be good and should have tried everything else. 
I've even reused screws removed using this method. In emergencies I have had to cut a slot in the top with my hacksaw and use a straight screw driver but it gets done. I hardly ever use an impact driver as you can brake a lot of stuff with it.
I've been workin on a fixing junk all my life. LOL I love it !!
Good stuff guys !!! Git R Done is the main thing !!
I've even reused screws removed using this method. In emergencies I have had to cut a slot in the top with my hacksaw and use a straight screw driver but it gets done. I hardly ever use an impact driver as you can brake a lot of stuff with it.I've been workin on a fixing junk all my life. LOL I love it !!
Good stuff guys !!! Git R Done is the main thing !!
The tap before you twist method is tried and true. Don't recall where I learned it I've used it for years. Works on any stubborn bolt or screw in metal but especially these little screws in aluminum carbs. I don't even try turning a screw in a carb before tapping it anymore. Most of the time a few taps and it turns out with little effort. Screw is most definitely reusable and keeps the head from stripping. Next time you do one try it.
nckb
Active Member
For hose clamps, I can't recommend these enough. And they are inexpensive.
[FONT=&]http://a.co/7XOrOgi
These are truly 100% stainless. I use them in salt, and have yet to see any rust. Some are several years old[/FONT]
[FONT=&]http://a.co/7XOrOgi
These are truly 100% stainless. I use them in salt, and have yet to see any rust. Some are several years old[/FONT]
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