Broken DESS Key and No BRP Support

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Need help! 2007 Utopia, the plastic “cap” of the DESS key degraded in heat over the years and disintegrated last weekend, so the key won’t stay on the post. Set up an appointment at the one SeaDoo dealership in the DFW area I could find that even supports SeaDoo boats anymore, and ordered a key through their parts department. Went to the service department today to get the key programmed into the MPEMs for the motors, and they came out and said it worked fine on the left engine, but the right engine won’t start with the new key even through their computer says it “took” the info on the new key. They said it’s likely either a bad MPEM or bad harness but troubleshooting would be a multi-hour follow on appointment and they probably can’t get parts anymore since BRP doesn’t support boats at all anymore. I said that didn’t make sense, there couldn’t be an MPEM or harness problem because the key with the disintegrated plastic still starts both motors fine, it just won’t stay on the post. So I drove home wondering what in the world I do next. Gonna try to rig up some kind of plastic key body to attach to what's left of my key to keep my key on the DESS post, but is there anyone who has run into a similar situation, either with the key disintegrating or the dealership saying they could only get one MPEM to “accept” the key? Greatly appreciate any help.
 
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Need help! 2007 Utopia, the plastic “cap” of the DESS key degraded in heat over the years and disintegrated last weekend, so the key won’t stay on the post. Set up an appointment at the one SeaDoo dealership in the DFW area I could find that even supports SeaDoo boats anymore, and ordered a key through their parts department. Went to the service department today to get the key programmed into the MPEMs for the motors, and they came out and said it worked fine on the left engine, but the right engine won’t start with the new key even through their computer says it “took” the info on the new key. They said it’s likely either a bad MPEM or bad harness but troubleshooting would be a multi-hour follow on appointment and they probably can’t get parts anymore since BRP doesn’t support boats at all anymore. I said that didn’t make sense, there couldn’t be an MPEM or harness problem because the key with the disintegrated plastic still starts both motors fine, it just won’t stay on the post. So I drove home wondering what in the world I do next. Gonna try to rig up some kind of plastic key body to attach to what's left of my key to keep my key on the DESS post, but is there anyone who has run into a similar situation, either with the key disintegrating or the dealership saying they could only get one MPEM to “accept” the key? Greatly appreciate any help.

Maybe a 3D print of the rubber boot? Also-I see on eBay you can buy non-dess keys-I wonder if you could strip one and fit the other around it?
 
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Maybe a 3D print of the rubber boot? Also-I see on eBay you can buy non-dess keys-I wonder if you could strip one and fit the other around it?
Thanks, really appreciate the reply. Those are two of the solutions I was noodling through, too. I have two non-DESS keys arriving from Amazon today. Don't know how close or in contact the chip in the DESS key has to be to the post, but wondering if I could just tether the DESS "guts" to the non-DESS key and use that. If that doesn't work I'll try to epoxy or plastic weld the removed "cylinder" of plastic from a non-DESS key to the DESS key "guts". If neither of those work, maybe look at 3D printing one. My bigger concern is actually the non-existence of BRP support. Love this boat, but don't know how much longer I'll be able to operate it now that it's starting to show its age.
 
Please update what you do and what works. I’m having a key issue also and have no one in area to reprogram.
 
Well, the boats use the same parts as the skis. The MPEM's can be hard to match up and impossible in the case of the special double-stacked boat MPEM but even in that case two ski MPEM's can be installed. ($$$ either way)

Have you tried swapping the two DESS posts and then maybe the 2nd MPEM key can be read? If this works, then perhaps a new(preferred)/used DESS post from a ski would be the ticket.
 
Well, the boats use the same parts as the skis. The MPEM's can be hard to match up and impossible in the case of the special double-stacked boat MPEM but even in that case two ski MPEM's can be installed. ($$$ either way)

Have you tried swapping the two DESS posts and then maybe the 2nd MPEM key can be read? If this works, then perhaps a new(preferred)/used DESS post from a ski would be the ticket.
I only have one DESS post on the boat.
 
If the old key was able to start both engines, then I am thinking that the dealer is doing something wrong.
If they are not a boat dealer, then their equipment may not licensed to be used on the boats.
I think that you may want to consider buying a Candoo Pro.
 
If the old key was able to start both engines, then I am thinking that the dealer is doing something wrong.
If they are not a boat dealer, then their equipment may not licensed to be used on the boats.
I think that you may want to consider buying a Candoo Pro.
I agree, thanks for the recommendation. I have VAGCOM for my car and TuneECU for my motorcycle, so I'm sold on the idea of being able to interface with the ECUs in my garage. Also considering sending the ECUs into Torx Racing, looks like they will program two keys to my ECUs for $200. In their response to my email inquiry they said they have seen cases where adding a new DESS key to an ECU failed. Does anyone have experience with Torx for DESS programming to ECUs?
 
I’m going to send my ECUs to Torx Racing to get a new key programmed to my boat’s ECUs. Am also interested in the CanDoo Pro, but not sure at this point if I can justify the $400 price tag. Will let everyone know how the process with Torx Racing goes.
 
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I just programmed a second aftermarket key today with my candoopro box. I had a similar problem while programming the new key. While I was connected to the port engine diagnostic connector I added the new key. I wrote two keys back to the port computer. I tested the new key a found it would only start the port engine. It would not turn over the starboard engine. So I moved the candoopro connector over to the starboard engine diagnostic connector and repeated the key programming. It fixed the problem. Both engines start with the new key. So I suspect you need to bring it back to your dealer to fix it right. This was my first time programming a key with my candoopro. I erased a couple of other keys that was listed in the computers (ecu). It is nice to have a spare key handy.
 
I just programmed a second aftermarket key today with my candoopro box. I had a similar problem while programming the new key. While I was connected to the port engine diagnostic connector I added the new key. I wrote two keys back to the port computer. I tested the new key a found it would only start the port engine. It would not turn over the starboard engine. So I moved the candoopro connector over to the starboard engine diagnostic connector and repeated the key programming. It fixed the problem. Both engines start with the new key. So I suspect you need to bring it back to your dealer to fix it right. This was my first time programming a key with my candoopro. I erased a couple of other keys that was listed in the computers (ecu). It is nice to have a spare key handy.


Not a bad thought... I have to use a specific port to communicate with the candoopro as well. One of the ports I can access everything on both engines with no issues, the other it seems to create communication issues between the engines.
 
I just programmed a second aftermarket key today with my candoopro box. I had a similar problem while programming the new key. While I was connected to the port engine diagnostic connector I added the new key. I wrote two keys back to the port computer. I tested the new key a found it would only start the port engine. It would not turn over the starboard engine. So I moved the candoopro connector over to the starboard engine diagnostic connector and repeated the key programming. It fixed the problem. Both engines start with the new key. So I suspect you need to bring it back to your dealer to fix it right. This was my first time programming a key with my candoopro. I erased a couple of other keys that was listed in the computers (ecu). It is nice to have a spare key handy.

My local Seadoo guy did the same thing last week. Only one engine was starting after the programming of the new key.
 
Update - just got a call from Matt at Torx Racing. The ECU from the engine the dealer couldn’t program a key to had an internal short to the DESS post wiring that wouldn’t allow it to accept a new key code. So basically junk. The other ECU had so many indications of impending death (numerous coil faults, over-voltage indications) that I ended up buying two reconditioned ECUs from Torx. Matt was very helpful and informative in helping me make the decision, and he said he’ll try to get the “new” ECUs programmed to the new key and out the door today so I have them for the weekend.
 
**12 December 2018 Update** - Still trying to get the ECUs form Torx Racing to work on my boat. Should receive an MPEM tomorrow which Matt Riley from Torx thinks is why two of the ECUs he sent me don’t work well on either engine but the third ECU he sent me worked fine on both engines. (The MPEM idea was what Matt came up with back when we troubleshot using his diagnostic cable back in October, I’ve been literally chasing him down daily to try to get updated status from him). Overall at this point I would say I can NOT recommend Torx Racing, during the winter Matt is a one man shop and trying to get him to do what he said he would do has been a struggle every single step of the way. At this point I just want to get to where I can be done with him, but I have to get to the point where my boat runs well... Frustrated beyond belief.

**26 October 2018 Update** - FINALLY got the diagnostic cable today, will post an update after we troubleshoot.

**9 Oct 2018 Update** - One ECU worked great, regardless of which engine it was installed on, but the other had a constant volts light, ran rough and got an engine oil light and loud warning beep at 3500 RPM regardless of which engine it was installed on. Contacted Torx, Matt sent another ECU. This one has a constant check engine light, RPMS “hunt” and at full throttle, runs 1200RPM lower, and rough, compared to the other engine. Again, these problems followed the ECU no matter which engine it was installed on. Contacted Matt at Torx, he is sending a diagnostic cable to help determine exactly what’s going on. Seems obvious from the ECU swapping results that I got one good and two bad ECUs from Torx, but will post an update after I get the diagnostic cable and we do more troubleshooting.

Got the reconditioned ECUs and key back from Torx Racing. Had some hiccups with shipping, but the communication was good and the “new” ECUs and key work fine in the boat. I don’t get the double “chirp” for each engine like I did with the original key and ECUs, but both engines start and run normally. Haven’t taken the boat out yet, so I will post another update on how everything works when I do. Overall I’d say Torx Racing is a good option to go with.
 
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