Best and easiest "tune up" / performance boost for 240EFI engines...

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You guys are awesome Excellent posts I have 2002 v6 240 just picked two weeks ago will be replacing them with all filters and new plugs refurbished. I'm a little weary on the injectors but with the help here think we can get er done. Time for some v6 tlc
 
I am new to the forum and don't know about posting to 10 year old threads. Hopefully this doesn't go against forum etiquette. I posted a video to YouTube to help replace the port side heat/temp sensor:

 
Short version: Replace your head temperature sensor. (It's the one on the port side.)

Longer version: The port side temperature sensor tells the ECU the engine's temperature. The ECU uses that information to control fuel injector pulse width. (There is also a temperature sensor on the starboard side, but that is used to sense the cooling water's temperature.)

The port side temperature sensor has a reputation for failing after a while. I've never experienced this, but the symptoms are many and varied, and usually pretty dramatic. I have a spare sensor that I picked up "just in case" from a guy who was parting out a 240EFI, but haven't ever noticed any of the dire symptoms reported by most victims of a bad temperature sensor.

This weekend we were running the boat and I realized that I've been seeing a bit more smoke lately, even when the engine is fully warmed. It seemed to smoke at idle more than it should, and definitely more than I remembered. Nothing serious, nothing dramatic, but I noticed it.

If the ECU were being lied to about the temperature, and thought the engine was still cool, it would lengthen the fuel injector pulse widths to richen up the mixture and help the cold engine warm up. On a warmed engine, though, that could cause the smoking I was seeing.

So, having a few spare minutes, I thought what the heck - let's swap out the sensor. So I did. (It takes a 13mm socket and about three minutes.) We then ran the engine for the next two days.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The smoke was gone - totally. That alone made it worthwhile. But the engine also ran smoother. The change had been so gradual that I hadn't noticed it, but snapping back to like-new performance was amazing. I couldn't believe what we'd lost.

We also gained 3-4 MPH on the top end. I had attributed that to air resistance from the waketower I installed, but now we're back to 54-55 MPH from the 51-52 we were seeing. That may be due to the ~100-200 RPM we gained at WOT. We had been at 5900-6000 and now we're getting at least 6100.

We also gained efficiency. We used to hold 20 MPH (wakeboarding speed) at exactly 4000 RPM. Now the engine purrs along at ~3600 RPM for that speed, a full ten percent less.

It is now my opinion that these sensors can fail gradually. I haven't plotted curves on the old one, but I bet they don't match the ones in the manual anymore. I now think they should be considered a consumable that should be replaced every few years, particularly since they only cost around $40 IIRC.

I wish I had replaced this sensor at the start of last season. My advice: Don't wait. Buy a replacement and swap it in. If you don't get any improvement, at least you have a spare for a component that is known to fail quite often. If you do see improvement, pat yourself on the back for the fastest and cheapest tune up imaginable.
Do you have a link for this part. Mine is getting a little smoky.
 
You guys are awesome Excellent posts I have 2002 v6 240 just picked two weeks ago will be replacing them with all filters and new plugs refurbished. I'm a little weary on the injectors but with the help here think we can get er done. Time for some v6 tlc
Nice, let me know what else you do. I have the same engine! 240 EFI baby
 
Short version: Replace your head temperature sensor. (It's the one on the port side.)

Longer version: The port side temperature sensor tells the ECU the engine's temperature. The ECU uses that information to control fuel injector pulse width. (There is also a temperature sensor on the starboard side, but that is used to sense the cooling water's temperature.)

The port side temperature sensor has a reputation for failing after a while. I've never experienced this, but the symptoms are many and varied, and usually pretty dramatic. I have a spare sensor that I picked up "just in case" from a guy who was parting out a 240EFI, but haven't ever noticed any of the dire symptoms reported by most victims of a bad temperature sensor.

This weekend we were running the boat and I realized that I've been seeing a bit more smoke lately, even when the engine is fully warmed. It seemed to smoke at idle more than it should, and definitely more than I remembered. Nothing serious, nothing dramatic, but I noticed it.

If the ECU were being lied to about the temperature, and thought the engine was still cool, it would lengthen the fuel injector pulse widths to richen up the mixture and help the cold engine warm up. On a warmed engine, though, that could cause the smoking I was seeing.

So, having a few spare minutes, I thought what the heck - let's swap out the sensor. So I did. (It takes a 13mm socket and about three minutes.) We then ran the engine for the next two days.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The smoke was gone - totally. That alone made it worthwhile. But the engine also ran smoother. The change had been so gradual that I hadn't noticed it, but snapping back to like-new performance was amazing. I couldn't believe what we'd lost.

We also gained 3-4 MPH on the top end. I had attributed that to air resistance from the waketower I installed, but now we're back to 54-55 MPH from the 51-52 we were seeing. That may be due to the ~100-200 RPM we gained at WOT. We had been at 5900-6000 and now we're getting at least 6100.

We also gained efficiency. We used to hold 20 MPH (wakeboarding speed) at exactly 4000 RPM. Now the engine purrs along at ~3600 RPM for that speed, a full ten percent less.

It is now my opinion that these sensors can fail gradually. I haven't plotted curves on the old one, but I bet they don't match the ones in the manual anymore. I now think they should be considered a consumable that should be replaced every few years, particularly since they only cost around $40 IIRC.

I wish I had replaced this sensor at the start of last season. My advice: Don't wait. Buy a replacement and swap it in. If you don't get any improvement, at least you have a spare for a component that is known to fail quite often. If you do see improvement, pat yourself on the back for the fastest and cheapest tune up imaginable.
Do you have a picture of where this temperature sensor is? I think I am going to try it. Thanks man.
 
Hello, sorry for hijackings too, I'm new to the sea doo boats and just pickup a 2001 challenger with an mercury efi m2 240, it turns on without no problems, but it wont accelerated, we change the throttle cable, but that didn't help, I just order the port temp sensor just to see if that would help, change the spark plugs...again so sorry newbie here, this boats smokes a lot...we can't pass 6 miles top...thank you for any replies.
 
You should be getting closer to 6000. Are the throttle plates opening when the lever is pushed forward? Has the timing and tps been set? Do you have spark on all 6 plugs? It could be any one of these or a combination. Do you have the service manual?
 
Hey Poppie, thanks for answering, I do smart houses, new to the boats, speacially to this type, spark i know we have on all 6 cylenders, timing can't tell you, neither tps, i have a book that i e download from a website, but it only shows devices and what they do.

Thanks
 
Now let me ask this stupid question, there is an electric fuel pump that is been bypass for a manual pump, does this had anything to do with it?
 
The electric lift pump is basically a substitute for a squeeze pump on a small out board. It primes the fuel system on start up. It's not a problem to have that one bypassed.
 
It sounds like there is much wrong with the boat. It just needs some adjustments. Once these are set the boat should run for a long time.
 
Im going to tried doing the adjustments...or paying someone to do it...i just don't want to end throwing money to a crook mechanic(hard to find an honest one)...but this forum and you guys are really helpful.
 
Im going to tried doing the adjustments...or paying someone to do it...i just don't want to end throwing money to a crook mechanic(hard to find an honest one)...but this forum and you guys are really helpful.
It sounds like there is much wrong with the boat. It just needs some adjustments. Once these are set the boat should run for a long time.
Ok so today we took out the rev limiter, no luck nothing changed, look also under the helm for a throttle guardian, no luck neither, l don't know what else to adjust or look for .
 
It sounds like there is much wrong with the boat. It just needs some adjustments. Once these are set the boat should run for a long time.
ok so we did a compression test 124 psi all around, after downloding the manual and checking the wiring diagram from the ecu to all the components i found out that the wiring doesn't match the colors of what the manual saids, I even call Mercury and given them my engine number and the ecu number and they said it match but whoever had this boat before cut the wiring harness and it doesn't look or match the description on the manual...can someone help with this please...thank you
 

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