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Battery going dead...

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oleman77

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Im new to PWC's and have already had issues with my 2000 GTX DFI's. I bought 2 of them and pretty much got screwed. Been in shop since I had them. One of the problems is the battery going dead. Do PWC's have some sort of way to charge the batteries while crafts are running?
 
How old are your batteries? We can't seem to get more than 2 seasons out of the battery in our 2003 GTX.

If your batteries are new then it could be a computer issue -that's what happened to us and it wasn't cheap. Someone suggested too late that we install a kill switch in the battery cable to prevent the drain down but we had already replaced the computer.
 
Actually the battery that went dead was already in the jet ski so I'm not sure how old it is. I will purchase a new one and give it another try. One thing I have read on this forum was to check the voltage before and after engine running. Should be 12V with engine not running and 14V while running. So I will check the charging system when the new battery is in. Im having other difficulties with this same jet ski, maybe you could give me some suggestions. Once the jet ski is running it will run well for a while then the maint light comes on. The jet ski still seems to run well until you shut it off. Once shut off I have to pull the plugs out and crank the engine over to try to clean out cylinder, the plugs are real wet. Once I dry them off a bit and blow out some gas from cylinder the jet ski will start again until the next time I shut it off. I can do this all day, so long as I pull them put and put them back in dry it will start again and run for a while. So it seems to me I either have low spark or running rich. It is fuel injected so I believe the computer mixes the fuel, spark and air. Any ideas? I did put new plugs in it this past weekend before we went so Im sure its not the plugs.
 
Can you keep it on a tender, I have hard some issues where some models shut off with an open circuit and just drain the battery like crazy, I always keep mine on a tender if not using for more than a couple weeks. Some tenders have a quick hookup so you can connect more quickly
 
WET PLUGS
what brand plugs did you use? i happen to be quite certain plug brands offer different available heat ranges, and whatever the OEM or this forum recommends would be better to put in the ski so the cylinder temperature at the spark plug is just right. trust me, you dont wanna mess with heat ranges or know what they are or know exactly which one to put in and why. (i know this is VERY important in cars, not sure about the skis though)

many thinks can cause a computer controlled engine to run rich, so many sensors to check its kinda ridiculous. i would start with OEM spark plugs and maybe some fuel system cleaner (stuck injectors will make for wet plugs.) i would also get a spark tester and check for a nice, crisp blue spark.

FOR THE BATTERY ISSUES....
try replacig the battery. if it has a typical lead-acid battery in it, replace it with a glass-mat battery. i have about 4 seasons on my current battery, i got one season out of the typical wet-cell battery. hope this helps
 
Can you keep it on a tender, I have hard some issues where some models shut off with an open circuit and just drain the battery like crazy, I always keep mine on a tender if not using for more than a couple weeks. Some tenders have a quick hookup so you can connect more quickly

What is a tender? A battery charger?
 
The plugs are OEM NDK 4's. I was thinking about going to 6's but wanted to get input before I did. I did replace the battery but didn't get a glass-mat, I will next time. Thanks for the input...
 
What is a tender? A battery charger?

a tender is a "trickle charger" or a very low amp slow charger. basically putting in what is being drained out. good idea for vehicles stored months at a time.

use the plugs that are recommended. DO NOT alter the plugs, seadoo spent a lot of time engineering the machine for NGK 4's, put 4's in it. NOTE: modifications may require different plugs.

ALSO i got my glass-mat battery from Seadoo. it starts it fine, all you have to remember is they HATE fast chargers (anything over 2 amp) so youre gonna want a tender for it to charge it up after winter. OR you can do like me, bolt it up, start it, and it goes. DO NOT put your battery on concrete or metal surfaces for extended periods of time (hours/days) either as they tend to drain.
 
What is a tender? A battery charger?

It's basically a trickle charger, but smarter. Go to Ebay, Search on "Battery Tender Junior". They're as low as $24 delivered and they work great!

If your maintenance light is coming on, I'd guess you have a faulty sensor somewhere and it's throwing the mixture way off... may be heat related (why it doesn't come on immediately, the sensor is failing when it gets hot). A dealership should be able to hook up their computer to your watercraft's computer and pull the codes which will tell them which sensor it is.

To test if the sensor is failing due to engine heat, start it cold let it run 60 seconds then kill it and see if it'll restart again without pulling the plugs. If it'll restart before the engine get's hot, then there's a sensor going bad but only when the engine is hot!

- Michael
 
may be heat related (why it doesn't come on immediately, the sensor is failing when it gets hot).

do these machines have open and closed loop, like cars? cars only look at the feedback sensor inputs when at operating temp. if he has a feedback sensor failing/bad, and a battery not keeping enough juice to the ECU to maintain the volatile memory..... i see a sensor being quite possible.
 
They're a closed-loop cooling system (I don't think you can have open AND closed loop???). Battery shouldn't be an issue as it cranks over just fine but will not actually fire up, as I'm understanding it. Has to be a sensor going bad.

- Michael
 
its more of a system related to emissions/when the vehicle looks at sensor feedbacks. open loop=car is cold, not operating temp, sensor inputs can be invalid.

closed loop=engine at operating temp and sensor inputs are all possible and within perameters.
 
Yes but in boating terms, an open-loop cooling system uses lake/ocean water to circulate thru the engine for coolant, where'as a closed-loop cooling system uses antifreeze and a heat exchanger plate (the ride plate in this case has channels in it thru which hot antifreeze flows to be cooled down by the lake/ocean water).

- Michael
 
right, but i was talking computers here.

just tryin to throw an idea out there. also, on any engine with injectors, they can stick open if debris gets in them. the chances of it happening to all cylinders at once is slim/none though.

these things must have an engine temperature sender of some sort on them. if that fails it WILL run rich. computers are amazing, but they believe lies that bad sensors tell them.
 
Well according to Seadoo dealer I have a bad fuel pump. I questioned them because my plugs were so wet when I pulled them out but according to them if the pump is weak it will dribble the fuel into cylinder instead of a nice spray. Im going to have to believe them on this one. 800 bucks (ouch) but they are going to eat the labor so it could be worse I guess. Also there was a component in the charging system that was out which cost 180. 1000 bucks, dang I hope we can enjoy them now....
 
Well according to Seadoo dealer I have a bad fuel pump. I questioned them because my plugs were so wet when I pulled them out but according to them if the pump is weak it will dribble the fuel into cylinder instead of a nice spray. Im going to have to believe them on this one. 800 bucks (ouch) but they are going to eat the labor so it could be worse I guess. Also there was a component in the charging system that was out which cost 180. 1000 bucks, dang I hope we can enjoy them now....

Well it wasn't the fuel pump. The dealer has no idea what else to do. They told me they have tried everything they know of plus everything Bombardier told them to try. They are out of options. They are convinced that it's in the fuel system so they are going to just start changing out parts until they find the one causing the problem. First part to try is the fuel pressure regulator which I believe is in the fuel distribution rail. They said after it runs for a while the fuel pressure drops which is why they went after the fuel pump. Hopefully I get a call tomorrow telling me they were successful. Can't wait to ride this thing!
 
Well my battery issues were related to a bad voltage regulator. 180 bucks. Well at least my battery will last longer than a day now :D

Dealer still can't find why it will not stay running. I started another thread for this. I will keep everyone posted hoping to help out another poor soul having simular issues. Thanks for all your responses guys, they were very helpful...
 
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