Auction purchase 2004 seadoo rxp

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Nubeee

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So I’m going through the ski. This seadoo had the dess post removed and the gas tank bone dry at time of purchase. It has a check engine on display.
I’ve
Replaced dess post
Check compression 120psi all three
Oil looks good
74 hours on display
When I press the start button I here the fuel pump but it does not turn over?
I jumped the solenoid and it started right up it runs between 1750 and 1800 with no issues. If the solenoid is bad does the ck engine come on and stay on after start? I’m trying to trouble shoot the problem and would take any support
 
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Few possibilities... Does the instrument cluster powers up? How many beeps do you get?
 
The 4 beeps is only a confirmation that the safety lanyard is left on its post without starting the engine or after the engine has stopped. (4 beeps every 3 seconds for 4 hours)
You should get 2 short beeps when installing the safety lanyard to confirm the ECM recognized the safety lanyard so the engine can be started.
If you are a member you can download the manual, that might help a lot.
 
No, a bad solenoid will not trigger the check engine light. Press set 5 times, then mode until it says end, and give us the codes.
 
That's the compass out of range error and the reason you have the check engine light. So on the rxp there is no compass but for some reason, usually after a long period of not having a battery in it, the system loses it's setting that tells it there is no compass. It is a simple fix but you will need BUDS or Candoo to uncheck the compass setting and write it to the ECU.

You still need to replace the solenoid. They are a very common failure.
 
Tha
That's the compass out of range error and the reason you have the check engine light. So on the rxp there is no compass but for some reason, usually after a long period of not having a battery in it, the system loses it's setting that tells it there is no compass. It is a simple fix but you will need BUDS or Candoo to uncheck the compass setting and write it to the ECU.

You still need to replace the solenoid. They are a very common failure.
Thank you so much!!
I have a VTS problem not sure if it’s in the control or motor. Not much on YouTube on them.
 
It's can be either but modules fail more frequently than motors. Simple to check, just open cover and put 12v to the motor leads. If it moves, it's good and your module is bad. If it doesn't it's bad but your module may also be bad. You can check to see if the module is sending 12v when you press the vts button. Although, lots of people just set it in the middle by hand and never fix it.
 
I was thinking about getting a rebuild kit for super charger just for my own piece of mind. I don’t know who owned it previously it has 74 hours on it. Anyone have any suggestions on which one to buy?
Is there any other parts I should look into replacing?
 
It's can be either but modules fail more frequently than motors. Simple to check, just open cover and put 12v to the motor leads. If it moves, it's good and your module is bad. If it doesn't it's bad but your module may also be bad. You can check to see if the module is sending 12v when you press the vts button. Although, lots of people just set it in the middle by hand and never fix it.
That was easy enough. It moves up and down. Must be module.
 
check the vts fuse, it could be shorted out. On my 97spx, I bypassed the module in lieu of two relays wired to the buttons. I never had my gauge work again, but it at least I could control where the VTS was. It was my cheap fix. I don't believe those modules changed much from then to now.

As for the SC, def. rebuild it as you most likely have the ceramic washers. you'd be lucky if you didn't lose any pices of it by now. All the new rebuild kits use steel washers. The rebuild isn't TOO hard, but you do need some special tools and some mechanical knowledge. My OEM kit came with decent enough instructions that I could do it myself w/o issue, however, 100hrs later, my SC oil seals are leaking. I know it's due for another rebuild, but honestly, I thought that was a preventative measure. I didn't think the seals would leak so fast, esp being OEM. Might try WSM next time and save some $, as I believe they use Viton seals.
 
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