Anyone add a second battery to 210 challenger or other sea doo boat?
- Thread starter gb387
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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I suggest building a mounting spot using KILN DRIED wood, fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin. This type of resin will seal the wood to keep water from penetrating and the wood makes a great sturdy place to mount a proper battery box.
I estimate a quart of epoxy resin should be enough, start by mixing small amounts with activator and mix additional as needed.
First prepare the wood piece by cutting to size and wrapping it in fiberglass cloth and coating that in epoxy resin.
Then clean the location for mounting well using acetone and clean rags to remove grease and oil, then sand using 400 grit sandpaper to help smooth and prepare the hull surface for epoxy adhesion.
Mix up an epoxy resin bedding compound by adding fine sawdust to your activated resin and make a paste of peanut butter consistency. Apply paste liberally to hull surface and bed the piece of fiberglass covered wood into that to make your battery tray mounting surface.
Some duct tape can be used to make a dam to hold parts and keep resin from flowing out of the paste and make the overall job tidy.
Than after resin paste is fully cured, sand as necessary to make clean edges, etc., perhaps another coat of activated resin to finish.
Now you will have a nice solid place to screw-mount the battery tray but you might want to paint the new location first, using a spray can of epoxy appliance paint, the type Home Depot sells.
I estimate a quart of epoxy resin should be enough, start by mixing small amounts with activator and mix additional as needed.
First prepare the wood piece by cutting to size and wrapping it in fiberglass cloth and coating that in epoxy resin.
Then clean the location for mounting well using acetone and clean rags to remove grease and oil, then sand using 400 grit sandpaper to help smooth and prepare the hull surface for epoxy adhesion.
Mix up an epoxy resin bedding compound by adding fine sawdust to your activated resin and make a paste of peanut butter consistency. Apply paste liberally to hull surface and bed the piece of fiberglass covered wood into that to make your battery tray mounting surface.
Some duct tape can be used to make a dam to hold parts and keep resin from flowing out of the paste and make the overall job tidy.
Than after resin paste is fully cured, sand as necessary to make clean edges, etc., perhaps another coat of activated resin to finish.
Now you will have a nice solid place to screw-mount the battery tray but you might want to paint the new location first, using a spray can of epoxy appliance paint, the type Home Depot sells.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes you're right, it's not all that complicated or difficult necessarily. And yes, it depends on how you intend on using your configuration. Overkill is unnecessary.
Batteries have a life span normally in years when maintained and used as designed BUT are far from qualifying as perpetual motion devices. I've had cases where a battery might last more than 10 years and others where they lasted just a couple, despite proper use and maintenance. And, batteries can fail suddenly or even spectacularly thus I don't count them as life-saving devices where I'd trust my life to one.
A good single battery can more than suffice in most cases, DEPENDING on circumstances.
Keep in mind, any battery or bank of batteries is incapable of perpetual motion and thus requires some amount of attention, especially when electrical appliances such as stereos and such are involved. When 11 volts static condition is reached, that battery by rule of thumb, is considered 50% discharged and in most cases will require minimum 12 hours on a good automatic float charger at a maximum rate based on battery size to return to full capacity, best case.
Batteries have a life span normally in years when maintained and used as designed BUT are far from qualifying as perpetual motion devices. I've had cases where a battery might last more than 10 years and others where they lasted just a couple, despite proper use and maintenance. And, batteries can fail suddenly or even spectacularly thus I don't count them as life-saving devices where I'd trust my life to one.
A good single battery can more than suffice in most cases, DEPENDING on circumstances.
Keep in mind, any battery or bank of batteries is incapable of perpetual motion and thus requires some amount of attention, especially when electrical appliances such as stereos and such are involved. When 11 volts static condition is reached, that battery by rule of thumb, is considered 50% discharged and in most cases will require minimum 12 hours on a good automatic float charger at a maximum rate based on battery size to return to full capacity, best case.
James.Moon
Active Member
I have considered adding a second battery in case I beach somewhere with the radio on and it drains the battery. However instead due to laziness and cheapness , I bought one of the new fantastic lithium style battery boosters instead - I keep it in my boat all summer and move it to one of my road vehicles for the winter.
JPass
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rcguy
Active Member
I bought a Perko battery switch ($40.00), Attwood Battery Tray 27 Series($10.99) and Wal-Mart Marine battery 27 series ($74.98). Installed all three years ago and works fine. The battery tray was installed behind the factory battery tray using liquid nails and stainless screws. The only added expense was for the battery cables and positive terminal cover under $10.00. I guess it took about 3-4 hours of work.
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JPass
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I'm curious as to what it looks like. Part number is different from the OEM one I posted from the parts diagram.
Premix
Active Member
Is this picture from a 210 Challenger?
rcguy
Active Member
No...if you look at my profile I own a 2008 Challenger 180
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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The EC5 accepts up to 12AWG, I think.
SB175 accepts up to 1/0 but it all depends on what you're doing of course.
http://www.andersonpower.com/_global-assets/downloads/pdf/ds-sb175.pdf
SB175 accepts up to 1/0 but it all depends on what you're doing of course.
http://www.andersonpower.com/_global-assets/downloads/pdf/ds-sb175.pdf
Did you have to use the field terminals on the back of the switch or just the feed and battery 1 and battery 2 terminals?
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