Another oil question....sorry

[jjsinaz]

On the my 94 GTS, the PO was running Kawasaki 2-stroke Jet Ski oil, which is TC-W3 rated. That is the oil that I have been running in the ski since I got it a few weeks ago.
I have done a good bit of searching on this subject, so I understand that TC-W3 oil is NOT what Sea Doo recommends. So, I'd like to change over the the XPS full synthetic API-TC. I read something to the effect that once you start running a certain oil for a length of time, that switching isn't a good idea, so my question is, would it be advisable to switch now?

I also understand that the oil tank, lines etc would need all of the old oil cleaned out of them. Also, how should I get the oil out of the RV cavity?

Thank you!!!

 

[JJinSC]

Yes, switch ASAP. Like you say, remove all oil from tank. Purge all oil from lines. Clean system and change filter. Fill with new XPS full synthetic and bleed. The confusion about changing is actually about mixing. You should never mix brands or types. Changing from TC–W3 to API–TC is highly recommended at this point for your Doo.


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[JJinSC]

PS you can vacuum the oil out of the RV cavity.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yes, it's a good idea to switch over to the correct oil in this case, ASAP. I would probably disconnect the lower most oil line for the RV and suck all the oil out from there. I would also flush a bit of the new type oil through the RV cavity, these two oils have incompatible detergent packages and can gel when mixed so it's important to remove as much of the TCW3 as possible b/c if they mix and gel the goop will clog the oil injection system.

I think that must be the 720 engine which doesn't have the RAVE exhaust valves that tend to coke up with carbon when burning mineral and syn-blend, thus you can use the mineral or syn-blend. ie: full syn isn't required or necessary for the 720 but certainly more than adequate of course.

While you're at it, I'd also clean the oil injection nozzles in the intake manifold using carburetor cleaner and make sure they're not plugged, sometimes this does happen and it's a good opportunity to clean them internally (they have check valves in them).

Make sure the block drain isn't plugged with sand, important part of the cooling system among the other hoses, inlets/outlets.

Those small oil lines from the oil injection pump pushing oil to the oil injectors are 3/32 ID Tygon F-4040-A tubing and swell/rot over time thus should be replaced at some point. Now is as good an opportunity as any!

You can partially fill the fuel tank using premix @ 40:1, a few gallons of fuel perhaps, until the oil injection is completely purged of air bubbles from the maintenance if there's any question or concerns, and there's an air bleed screw on the oil injection pump as well.

I think you can download a service manual for that model, or a later one that uses the same engine.

I like to do one thing at a time between water tests, in case the engine begins to run poorly for some reason it's easier to backtrack.

Good luck, ask questions, enjoy.

 

[jjsinaz]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll git er' done as soon as possible!