Air bubbles in fuel lines

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That’s your pickup. If it we’re bad, the boat wouldn’t run, so I don’t think it’s your problem... I’d replace the gauge and you should be back in business.

As far as changing colors, it’s quite a process... I did quite a bit aesthetic work on my Speedster, but it took a lot of elbow grease, and I didn’t even paint the hull... This photo still has the purple Bombardier decals on it, but those have since been switched.View attachment 41647

Yeah man that looks great. Way better without all the 90's style decals. Not sure how to remove those but I tried a little and it's proving challenging.
 
The best way to remove the decals is to use a heat gun and gently get underneath them with a razor blade. Once you get the decal itself off, use some adhesive remover (Goo-Gone or Turtle Wax Decal Remover) and a scotchbrite pad to clean up all the residue. If you don’t like the idea of scaling the gelcoat with a razor, you can use those decal eraser wheels that chuck into a drill, but they don’t last long, so buy two or three of them if you go that route...
 
Also, I painted the rub rail, which has been fine for the channel itself, but I’d really suggest replacing the insert rather than trying to paint it. I’m going to go back and redo mine at some point because I’m tired of having to touch it up every time it rubs a dock...
 
This might go back to the pole switch on the tach, if it has one. The thing is, tachs have to be adaptable to the various signals coming from the source, some magnetos will have many more polls than other, depending on the manufacturer, thus the pole switch sets up the tach for number of pulses per revolution. Often 6 pulses per rev but CAN be some other number.

Perhaps a typical Seadoo ski tach is fixed, these are a custom type of tach order in bulk for a specific application (not universal type) where they're designed for a specific number of pulses per revolution already determined. This factory (not universal) type wouldn't need a pole configuration switch for field configuration.

The boat and instrument manufacturers don't always know in advance how many pulses per revolution a tach signal will have, Yamaha vs Honda, vs Evinrude, etc., they can be different from year to year and model to model.

Another for instance, if the engine is 6-cylinder and the tach pulse was derived from a single ignition coil, a V8 would generate more pulses per revolution than a V6 would. The universal tach must be configurable to match timing with the signal source.
 
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This might go back to the pole switch on the tach, if it has one. The thing is, tachs have to be adaptable to the various signals coming from the source, some magnetos will have many more polls than other, depending on the manufacturer, thus the pole switch sets up the tach for number of pulses per revolution. Often 6 pulses per rev but CAN be some other number.

Perhaps a typical Seadoo ski tach is fixed, these are a custom type of tach order in bulk for a specific application (not universal type) where they're designed for a specific number of pulses per revolution already determined. This factory (not universal) type wouldn't need a pole configuration switch for field configuration.

The boat and instrument manufacturers don't always know in advance how many pulses per revolution a tach signal will have, Yamaha vs Honda, vs Evinrude, etc., they can be different from year to year and model to model.

This tach looks stock. But when I had it out I didn't remove the tach from the plastic enclosure. I'll do that tonight and see if theres a switch on it.

One problem I'm seeing though is that if the tach is in fact bad, and needs to be replaced, the part is discontinued. I'm seeing them on ebay but I don;t typically trust that.
 
Yeah, if it's a 2" tach then there are fewer choices. I've seen the 2" basic tachs with no frills, perhaps not hardly waterproof, made in India for about $12 new on ebay. They might be waterproof assuming they were designed with mopeds in mind?

I'm betting you'll need a configurable tach, the typical Seadoo tach reads 2 pules per revolution I expect, b/c the signal is derived from the CDI ignition system that might fire twice; dual coil ignition systems fir just once. It's not clear how the signal coming from the black box is derived exactly, but it does come from the CDI and not the stator.
 
Yeah, if it's a 2" tach then there are fewer choices. I've seen the 2" basic tachs with no frills, perhaps not hadly waterproof, made in India for about $12 new on ebay.

I'm betting you'll need a configurable tach, the typical Seadoo tach reads 2 pules per revolution I expect, b/c the signal is derived from the CDI ignition system that might fire twice; dual coil ignition systems fir just once. It's not clear how the signal coming from the black box is derived exactly, but it does come from the CDI and not the stator.

Thats interesting. Because the tach signal wire is attached to both the wire from the mag and the component located under the solenoid. Is that the CDI?

I'm hoping I won't have to go that route of changing the tach. I prefer to stick with the stock one. Maybe I'll try to repair it if I do find it's faulty.
 
Thats interesting. Because the tach signal wire is attached to both the wire from the mag and the component located under the solenoid. Is that the CDI?

I'm hoping I won't have to go that route of changing the tach. I prefer to stick with the stock one. Maybe I'll try to repair it if I do find it's faulty.

The stator AC power is fed through yellow wires to a regulator/rectifier to keep the battery charged, that's the only function of the stator. Well, in your case they tapped off it to derive a tach signal as well.

Dollars to donuts it's not a ski tach unless ski tachs are pole configurable, which nobody has mentioned, so I assume not.
 
The stator AC power is fed through yellow wires to a regulator/rectifier to keep the battery charged, that's the only function of the stator. Well, in your case they tapped off it to derive a tach signal as well.

Dollars to donuts it's not a ski tach unless ski tachs are pole configurable, which nobody has mentioned, so I assume not.

As far as I know, most of the skis utilize a signal directly from one of the stator wires, and it does not pass through the MPEM. It’s an odd way to pick up a tach signal, and most aftermarket tachs will not work with this signal. If you were to replace the tach with a non OEM unit, you would need to run new wiring to pick up a signal from the CDI unit...
 
As far as I know, most of the skis utilize a signal directly from one of the stator wires, and it does not pass through the MPEM.

You just described the type of tach he needs, for stator derived signal.

The tach in my boat uses a signal derived from the CDI, there's no electrical connection to the stator itself.
 
You just described the type of tach he needs, for stator derived signal.

The tach in my boat uses a signal derived from the CDI, there's no electrical connection to the stator itself.

I see where the confusion is. My Speedster and skis both use a stator derived signal for the tachs... I thought the majority of them were wired that way.
 
I see where the confusion is. My Speedster and skis both use a stator derived signal for the tachs... I thought the majority of them were wired that way.

Looks like Seadoo changed the signal source along the way at some point, with probably some overlap. He needs either a tach that's configurable or the stator driven tach like yours, either one will work. I don't think my Sportster tach would read correctly, it would be much higher than it should b/c the stator probably pulses around 6x per revolution. Unless Seadoo tachs are configurable and I'm just not aware.
 
Here's the 1996 GSX schematic I have showing the grey wire tach signal source highlighted in red, the entire stator driven charging circuit is shown as well,1996 Seadoo GSX Regulator.jpg
 
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Not directly applicable, just as an example of how tach signals are derived from the stator windings on engines other than Seadoo, this voltage regulator/rectifier for a 40hp Mercury outboard has the yellow AC input wires and a grey wire output as the tach signal:
s-l1600[1].jpg
 
Welp, just tested the tach resistor and it’s good :/ Looks like the tach may be bad after all.

Since the engine wouldn’t run if that pulse line was bad, really that only leaves the tach. I’m going to open it up and see what I can find. Got nothing to loose I guess.
 
You can test the stator if you want. An even faster test would be measure battery voltage while the engine is running, which will be higher than without the engine running if the stator and rectifier are working.

My bet is the tach's bad, verwy common (Elmer Fudd voice).
 
You can test the stator if you want. An even faster test would be measure battery voltage while the engine is running, which will be higher than without the engine running if the stator and rectifier are working.

My bet is the tach's bad, verwy common (Elmer Fudd voice).
One thing back on the tach. When I place the key on the tach needle resets to 0. The lights are also on. If the needle is resetting to 0, does this suggest that the tach could still be back?

Also, I'm debating the tiny tach is Westside Powersports does not have a working one.

Thanks again
 
A tiny tach is a great idea if you don’t mind having the non factory gauge there. They’re super simple to install and give you quite a bit more functionality than the stock tach...
 
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