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After carburetor rebuild won’t fire

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Taylor4616

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I have a 95XP I just purchased and not knowing I put TCW3 oil in it started running really strange cutting out or bogging out then It would run great for a minute or two and then if you were turning in turns playing around of backing off the gas it would just bog out and die or Accelerate and run great for a minute or two ..?so i checked the spark plugs and the front was wet and the back was dry brown .I got a carburetor rebuild kit ans changed the gaskets and fuel filters inside the carbs ,put a new fuel felter on and I also took my fuel Sending unit out and emptied the gas tank out to empty the oil out because it’s pre-mix and i put the carbs back on and it fired right up ,But it started revving up really high so I turned it off and haven’t got it to start back up only turns over. not sure now if it’s even getting fuel and dislocated the fuel lines that goes to and from the carbs and try to crank it over and I don’t See and fuel coming out ,so I’m not sure if it something I did in the carburetor or somethings wrong with the fuel sending Unit... the next morning it fired right up but started revving all the way up as if i was holding down the throttle again so i had to turn it off and now nothing again.
So i have checked the new spark plugs and the are getting fire, i tried putting fuel into the carbs”maybe to much”idk,took the carbs back apart and i did find a missing felter i fogot,when i had the gas tank out I glued the magnet back on the Float and my gauge now works ,but im not sure how the fuel pump gets gas to the engine on a seadoo ...these are my first pwc
 
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1) What color are the fuel lines? If they are gray, then you need to replace ALL of them. Those gray lines deteriorate and gum up the carbs and rest of the fuel system.
2) Did you clean out the carbs real good and blow all of the passages out or just put the new gaskets in. Unfortunately there is much more to rebuilding the carbs than changing the gasket. Check out the carburetor adjustments sticky at the beginning of the forum. It explains, in great detail, how and why these carbs work the way they do.
3) These engines will idle at about 3000 RPM out of the water, but once you put the ski in the water and the pump has a load on it the idle speed should be about 1500 RPM.
4) The way fuel gets into the carburetor is there is a fuel pump that is part of the carburetor. There will be a small hose connected to a nipple on the carb and it will also connect to a nipple on the engine block. This hose provides alternating crankcase pressure pulses, which operate the fuel pump diaphragm and causes it to pump fuel into the carb with the aid of the two check valves in there.
 
What your experiencing is lean runaway from lack of fuel. Sometimes the only way to kill it is with the choke.
 
1) What color are the fuel lines? If they are gray, then you need to replace ALL of them. Those gray lines deteriorate and gum up the carbs and rest of the fuel system.
2) Did you clean out the carbs real good and blow all of the passages out or just put the new gaskets in. Unfortunately there is much more to rebuilding the carbs than changing the gasket. Check out the carburetor adjustments sticky at the beginning of the forum. It explains, in great detail, how and why these carbs work the way they do.
3) These engines will idle at about 3000 RPM out of the water, but once you put the ski in the water and the pump has a load on it the idle speed should be about 1500 RPM.
4) The way fuel gets into the carburetor is there is a fuel pump that is part of the carburetor. There will be a small hose connected to a nipple on the carb and it will also connect to a nipple on the engine block. This hose provides alternating crankcase pressure pulses, which operate the fuel pump diaphragm and causes it to pump fuel into the carb with the aid of the two check valves in there.
Ok the only gray lunes i see left are the small line that goes from the carb to the engine (i was thinking that was the feed from the oil pump that is bypassed because it’s premixed now ) so I didn’t know that...very helpful! And grey lins from the sending unit to the gas shut off/reserve knobb but i will replace them...and yes all i did was change the gaskets and the fuel pump clear circles and the two srews under the mag carb but the other back carb one was stripped ,but i got a impact driver today,i just got done panting it today but i dont have the final pics till tomorrow but here is a sneak peek
 

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The line that goes from the carb to the engine is the pulse line. The pulses from alternating crankcase pressure is what makes the fuel pump work. The only one of those lines that can be left gray is the one going from the baffle on the fuel tank to the vent. I'd probably replace the pulse line too.

Looks great so far Looking forward to seeing the finished product
 
Ok the only gray lunes i see left are the small line that goes from the carb to the engine (i was thinking that was the feed from the oil pump that is bypassed because it’s premixed now ) so I didn’t know that...very helpful! And grey lins from the sending unit to the gas shut off/reserve knobb but i will replace them...and yes all i did was change the gaskets and the fuel pump clear circles and the two srews under the mag carb but the other back carb one was stripped ,but i got a impact driver today,i just got done panting it today but i dont have the final pics till tomorrow but here is a sneak peek
Because I put the wrong oil in it I’m thinking that could be possibly stuck in those gray lines and still need to be replaced as far as the carburetor rebuild went I didn’t blow any of the holes out the carbs himself to look very clean when I put the new gaskets in them that Jetski ran for three days it right after I bought it and would seem like you didn’t have any power and then all of a sudden would take off really fast and accelerate just like you wanted to but if you let off the gas it would either die or bog out
The line that goes from the carb to the engine is the pulse line. The pulses from alternating crankcase pressure is what makes the fuel pump work. The only one of those lines that can be left gray is the one going from the baffle on the fuel tank to the vent. I'd probably replace the pulse line too.

Looks great so far Looking forward to seeing the finished product
 

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There are three TINY holes in the carb throat right above the throttle plate. You have to open the throttle plate to see them. These are part of the low speed circuit and they are what supplies fuel during the transition from idle to part throttle. The are notorious for plugging up and a sometimes difficult to clean out. You need to spray carb cleaner through the pilot jet hole and keep blowing it out until all three of those holes are flowing. From the symptoms you describe it sounds like they are plugged up.
 
Update my rear carb is leaking needle and seat but now I don’t know what size to order for it I see eBay has 1.5 2.5 etc. any help appreciated
 
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