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98 gtx limited bogging
- Thread starter BrianZ71
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Welcome to the seadoo forum Brian. If you think you really want this seadoo, I would do a compression test to be sure all is good internally. The compression should be ideally 150 psi. If the seller drops his price like crazy then it might be a good buy. If he is sticking to his original price, have him get it running as it should be or tell him good by. The last thing you need to do is buy an expensive project this late in the season.
Karl
Karl
The compression check is an important test. If you want info on how to do it properly, let me know. I know here in the states we use " www.nada.com "for book pricing...
Karl
Karl
If the compression is good, it could be the Rave Valves need cleaning or it could be the carbs need to be cleaned. Be sure the jet pump bearings isn't causing more strain on the engine either. If the bearings in the jet pump are bad it causes more friction too. Remove the spark plugs and turn the shaft from inside in a counter clockwise direction. It should rotate fairly easy, but not super hard to turn. There isn't any compression on the engine with the spark plugs out, so it should turn over by hand at least. All the electrical should work too, and the battery fairly new.
Here is a link for you to check out on buying a used seadoo.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=134
Good luck with it.
Karl
Here is a link for you to check out on buying a used seadoo.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=134
Good luck with it.
Karl
The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.
The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.
Here is another idea to try...If the new spark plugs and RAVE cleaning doesn't work. It sounds like you need to remove the carburetors and clean them. If you're careful and don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't need to buy a rebuild kit. Pay attention to the internal filters too. If you have gray fuel lines you need to replace them with black fuel lines available from auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Measure the length you need and bring a sample with you so you get the correct size. Replace one at a time so you don’t get them mixed up. If you need clamps replace them too. Use small stainless steel clamps also from the auto parts store.
Karl
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.
The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.
Here is another idea to try...If the new spark plugs and RAVE cleaning doesn't work. It sounds like you need to remove the carburetors and clean them. If you're careful and don't tear or damage the diaphragms you won't need to buy a rebuild kit. Pay attention to the internal filters too. If you have gray fuel lines you need to replace them with black fuel lines available from auto parts stores like Auto Zone. Measure the length you need and bring a sample with you so you get the correct size. Replace one at a time so you don’t get them mixed up. If you need clamps replace them too. Use small stainless steel clamps also from the auto parts store.
Karl
timmyboy76
New Member
yup...cleran the carbs, again, and this time, replace all grey lines except the vent line, and pull the raves out, and clean those.
Cleaners won't clean the carbs. You need to pull them apart and use spray carb cleaner to get rid of the crap inside.
Karl
Karl
There's a lot of that going around...sellers claim the seadoo ran perfect last summer. Gee now it's for sale. Imagine that...
Karl
Karl
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