98 challenger 1800 twin rotax stall...

[kwmnh]

Hi,
well, after spending the day stuck in the middle of the lake , and found my way back to the marine with no engines, i dont know what to tell you .
both engines start, as soon as you touch the throttle they shut off.
if you dont touch the throttle it will run for like a minute and shut off...arggggg.
my first seadoo and im lost here.

Thanks.
Leo

 

[kustomkarl]

Welcome to the seadoo forum. You haven't given us much to go with as far as the problem... Here are some basics questions first;
When is the last time it was run? Is the fuel fresh? Did you replace the spark plugs? If so what did the old ones look like? Have you cleaned the carbs lately? Have you done a compression test lately and what is the compression? it ideally should be 150 psi. Is the fuel selector in the on position? Did you try the reserve position? Is it even getting fuel? Is the fuel filter clogged? You said it fired up, but did it labor because the battery is low on a charge? It needs a full charged battery to run properly. Did you use the choke to get it fired up?

Karl

 

[kwmnh]

Karl, i will try and answer as best as i can, i just bought the boat last week.
by the last owner, he ran thw boat last month, and its stall on him after running the whole day.
yesterday i put about $25 of 93 gas, to bring it to full tank, so i guess there was about half a tank full fro the last owner.
i didnt replace te sparkplugs.
he showed me recipts from july this year where they changed the little filters on the carbs, cause they were cloged, also replaced two ware rings and one implere.
i tested compression and its 155 all over the 4 cylinders.
the big fuel filters are full with fuel, so im guessing it is getting fuel, although im not sure, the fuel selctor is the one on the dash...right , i clicked it couple times...(it has black fuel lines)
it was starting up all the way back to the marine, and shuting off after 30sec to one minute every time, thats how i brough back to the marine.

Thanks,
Leo

 

[kustomkarl]

Leo, you should add your seadoo model and year to you avatar for future problems. Your seadoo is designed to run on 87 octanes to anything more is just a waste of money. The benefit is higher octane is ethanol free so that is a plus.
Check the spark plugs or maybe replace them. Are they wet from fuel? It sounds like dirty carb problem. Cleaning last year is well...last year. They could be dirty again from winter storage, and the gas evaporating and leaving a residue behind. Double check the compression again. Unless it was just rebuilt, it should no way be over the stock 150 psi per cylinder.

Here is some information on doing a compression test properly;
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression guage, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem.
I hope this helps you.

Karl

 

[kwmnh]

well, i took it to the marine today...bad bad news.
seem like rocks made theier way through the impeler and damaged both impelers and ware rings, dosnt look like it damged the jet pumps, but just the parts right before the jet pump.
the marine said its going to take about 4.5 hrs on each engine to take it out, thats 9 hrs on $105 each hr = $945...and about $700 in parts, brings me to about $1650...ouchhh....does that sound alright to you guys??? is it something i can do myself ???

Thanks,
Leo

 

[roneagan@cfl.rr.com]

WOW!!!! If you have some mechainical ability it's not that hard.. There is lots of help here that can get you throught it.. Here is about what the parts cost.. Wear ring $40ea, rebuilt impellers I think are 59.00 with return parts that are usable.. Take a look at www.sbtontheweb.com you will get an idea of the cost.. You should be able to do it for around $250.00 if you have the ability and time..

 

[kustomkarl]

You could buy the wear rings at out "parts" link in support of out forum. That price from the repair shop of yours is way off... Here in Floria thats about a $500.00 bill to repair.Here is what it takes to do the job yourself.

Here is some information on replacing the wear ring.
For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.

10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil

Karl

 

[timmyboy76]

just anutha shop, stick'n it to the man...

Yeah, listen to reagon, hit it on the head, chief....along w/ Karl's advice for pump removal,..except for #1...no water lines from inside motor going to pump you need to worry about.