97 xp half throttle for 24-48 hours after flip in the water please help

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k_24

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I have a 1997 seadoo xp 787
Everytime it turns upside down in the water it runs at half throttle for the day after a day or two everything is normal
I opened the spark plugs ,let the water spit out run it again and still half throttle
I checked the fuel tank has no water in it ,the electrical box is dry
Any suggestions ?
 
Every time? how often do you completely flip the thing? do you turn it over the right way as per the manufacturer sticker? You may still have some residual gooey crusty stinky water somewhere in the carbs. Have you at least taken the plates off the carbs and see any rusty, mucky water? just remember, the longer you wait, the harder it'll be to combat seizing and rust.

good luck man, keep us posted.
 
Everytime i take it on the water my friends flip it and water gets inside its inevitable with a 20 yr old seadoo
I cant really see how they are flipping it back

And what do you mean plates off the carb? Keep in mind i have twin carbs
I changed the filter inside the carburateur (took off the right 3 pieces to get to it not full dissasembly )
 
Dont let your friends ride your seadoo, they are not meant to be flipped over on every single ride. Let them buy their own if they are gonna abuse yours.

There is a procedure to flipping them back over in correct direction. Honestly cant believe yours even still runs.


Rob
 
First off you need to completely go through the carbs being it is 20 years old.
Second I have a 2001 XP and two friends have 1997 XP's and we ride hard and none of us get water in the engines.
Third every time you get water in the engine is removes the oil and steam cleans it which is death for a 2-stroke. I am as surprised as 1983 that it still runs at all with it being flooded every time out.
 
Definitely true.. people have two philosophies with these 20 year old skis:
1) "Ehh, its 20 yrs old, what the heck, my friends and I can beat this thing up...when it blows, it blows"... (yet when this happens, the owner gets pissed and blames it on the ski)

2) "These skis are a rare commodity nowadays and I've put in way too much wrench time to have someone beat it up, damage it, or sink it"...

I'll tell you, I never let ANYONE ride my ski unless I KNOW that the person knows more about skis than me, AND is willing to help fix it if it breaks. It's Murphy's Law, my 96 spx ran for 5 years even with the engine being inadvertently consumed by saltwater on three occasions (All from mechanical failures, NOT me or friends beating it to a pulp), and the ONE TIME I let someone ride it, against my better judgment, the motor blows.

with that said, to each their own. And if you're willing to put the time and effort in and are willing to learn, all the guys here will get you going.

With regards to the carbs, yea if that thing has been flipped multiple times... first off, be grateful that motor is still running...hopefully its not on borrowed time. So, with your dual carbs, you NEED to rebuild them using the genuine Mikuni kits (you'll need to kits, one for each carb). Just cleaning the little filters isn't enough. punch "carb rebuild" in the search function and you'll get tons of threads on completely rebuilding them. When you do it, please take and post pics. we are curious as to whether there is any rust in there or not. Also, do you still have the grey fuel lines? If so, they need to be swapped. Theres an inline fuel/water filter bowl with a spin off bottom. definitely make sure that's clean too. let us know if theres any sirt or rust or goobers in that...when sealing it back up, make sure the o-ring is seated flat and is not out of round/damaged. This will cause an air leak. can you post some pics of the inside of your hull? We'd like to see the condition of what a ski that is constantly flipped looks like.

good luck!
 
you need better friends or at least friends that know how to ride a ski properly, all you have to do is let go of the handlebars at the "moment of truth" .

Sorry I can't help with your issue and i'm focusing on the side story but that's like saying "every time my friend borrows my truck he runs into something" and asking for collision advice instead of just telling your friend to buy his own dam truck.
 
Open your hood, remove the plastic tray and looking towards the back of the engine compartment it will be to the left of the filler neck.
275500358.jpg
 
What difference does it make what type of kit i use it still seals and honestly what guarantee do i have that the carb rebuikd would fix it
 
What difference does it make what type of kit i use it still seals and honestly what guarantee do i have that the carb rebuikd would fix it

Honestly you can do what you want. And there are no guarantees.

What I can tell you like others that have been working on these for over 20 years there is a difference between the genuine Mikuni kits and they do much more than just seal the carbs.

As far as your original issue it sounds electrical to me. If it runs poor after it is flooded but fine the next day it sounds like something electrical is getting wet, shorting out then fine when it gets dry. If it was the fuel system it wouldn't get better within a day.
That being said please do yourself a favor and service the fuel system.
 
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What difference does it make what type of kit i use it still seals and honestly what guarantee do i have that the carb rebuikd would fix it

Firstly, as in life, there are NO GUARANTEES, only deduction by reasoning. But if you're asking that question, then your carbs have never been rebuilt under your ownership. Signs point to a fuel related problem and regardless, this NEEDS TO BE DONE especially after having water ingested into them as many times as you have had, especially not knowing which way the ski was flipped over.. It's like putting fix a flat in your tire without taking out the nail. You can flush out your entire fuel system, change all the fuel lines, use all the cleaner you want, and if those diaphragms and jets are clogged and your needles and seats (spring) is sticking, or gunked with mucky water, it'll be a waste of time.

Second, what difference does it make what kits you use? To me? None.. To anyone else? None. To you? It depends on what your time, energy and labor are worth. You will no doubt spend all your time rebuilding with cheap Chinese knockoff diaphragms, check valves, filters, gaskets, etc,... And then put it all back together, get a good ride or two out of it, then you'll be chasing another fuel gremlin and have to rip it all apart again because of a faulty check valve or a deteriorated filter clogging something up due to subpar materials.

I only say this bc IT HAPPENED TO ME.. I wanted to save $13.00 and since I just started working on skis, I wasn't too good with removing the carbs and linkage and return springs, so let's just say I spent a day or so out of my life just redoing something that I should've done from the start like all the guys on here told me to do.. Plus the entire week of downtime of no ski, as I was only able to work on it on weekends.

So just my experience, that's all. If you want those kits, you can find them on eBay or I think [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] has them. Let us know what happens.
Good luck!
 
Il get them rebuild by a marine mechanic i know and let you guys know what happened
 
How do you service the fuel system ? I changed the tank filter the water separator filter and filter in the carb

I checked the electrical box and it was dry what else can it be im sure they built it so that wires getting wet wouldnt make a big deal
 
seadoo.jpg
i was reading about carb rebuild and came across this could this be the problem since I dont get more than half throttle?
 
when you say the ebox was dry, that's a good sign, but was there any rust discoloration in there? any corrosion? or was it all shiny metal and clean black epoxy? Theres a black seal that is in between the two halves of the box and usually does a good job at keeping water out, so long as its not submerged for a while and that the plastic caps where the wires protrude are tight...

And yes, your HS jet very well CAN be part of the issue...Can definitely be adjusted incorrectly or clogged partially or completely...which is WHY we recommend rebuilding the carbs and giving them a full cleaning and setting them to spec.
As you said earlier...have the marine mechanic rebuild them, clean them and set them to spec (if hes a marine mechanic he should know how to or at least have the resources to find the parameters).

Report back
 
[MENTION=54779]k_24[/MENTION] for kicks, take a look at this post/thread... the second post, not saying what's right or wrong, but explains WHY using inferior rebuild kits COULD cause an issue.. [MENTION=64286]Mekanix[/MENTION] had an issue from a rebuild part not being of the same strength or material/thickness as another... as [MENTION=65307]Sportster-2001-951C-Stock[/MENTION] mentioned. There are a lot of other instances as well.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?79903-Hesitation-between-4500-5000
 
I can vouch for that: don't use inferior rebuild kits. You may end up with a carb that malfunctions and then it is so beyond fixing trying to find which part is working not properly that you may end up needing a new carb.

Benji.
 
Being a second year owner of a 96gti I appreciate your candor and telling it like it is in these posts. I will not let anyone else ride my GTI because it runs great now and I don't want unnecessary headaches caused by someone else. The experience on this forum is priceless and when I need to know anything about these skis
all the info is right here because I know very little,.thanks everyone.
 
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