I've got a 97xp that since I bought it, it runs perfectly out of the water. When I put it in the water it will run for 5 minutes or so and then dies. When I try to restart it, the engine has a hard time cranking over and barely will if at all. Eventually it completely stops cranking over, almost like the battery is dead or the engine is locking up. When I put it back on the trailer and it sits for a few hours the engine fires right back up and runs great. The key connection is good, every time I plug the key in, the gauges sweep and stay on. I have a brand new Deka battery in it and have checked the starter cables and they're good. I've turned up the idle about to what it should be. I'm sure this is something stupid but this has got me stumped and I'd appreciate any input or ideas. Thanks.
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97 seadoo xp runs out of water, dies in water. Please help!
- Thread starter fhansen
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Have you checked the compression? Have a peek thru the pto rav port for scoring as well. Is the spark a nice white blue? I know the battery is new, but did you load test it? Once in a blue moon I come across a new battery that is a failure. Is the charging circuit working? Maybe the engine is locking up after it is hot.
I have not checked the compression but plan on it. The charging circuit is working and the battery has been load tested. Ill have to take a look through the rav port. Haven't checked the spark but I will. I've been digging through the internet and saw how an excessive gap between the rotary valve and plate that the carbs bolt to can cause this issue so I plan on checking that as well. The weird thing to me is how the engine just stops turning over after riding it. I can't see how an engine can lock up when it's hot and then continue to run great after letting it sit for a few hours. I'll check this stuff and update with what I find, thanks again.
Regarding the rotary valve clearance,,,years ago on my 580,,,(my 1st ski), I went thru 2 starters,,.yup,,,the dealers mechanic didn't know why or even care,,,he just replaced them,,,Later a former racing champ,,,saw me on the shore struggling to start,,,and suggested my RV clearance was too much...the clearance is the primary form of compression,,,when the motor is warm/hot,,,that clearance opens up,,,and it may take forever to start,,,yup...2 bloody OEM starters,,,,
So I took the carb and rotary valve plate(the one the carbs mount to ) off. The carb mounting plate has wear marks in it. I know its a tight tolerance, don't know the spec off the top of my head, also not sure how to measure it. But I would imagine that with the wear marks, it's too excessive. I plan on replacing the plate. I noticed that there two "nozzles" in the carb mounting plate, one in each port. These nozzles have no oil lines (i think its oil) running to them, there capped off. Theres no pump that runs the oil to them on the front of the engine, that has a block off plate installed. The engine is an SBT rebuilt engine, its been in it since I bought the ski. Did whoever install the engine neglect to swap the pump from the old engine to the new one? Or do the SBT engines not use these oil lines? I could see the lack of oil that would usually be injected through those nozzles cause the excessive wear that I see on that mounting plate. Any ideas?
Sorry about the starters, I know that's not cheap!
Sorry about the starters, I know that's not cheap!
If you ran it without premix already your engine is shot.
Premix should be 40:1 but I like a little more oil at 32:1 as long as you aren't fouling plugs.
The seadoo oil injection system is extremely reliable and you will use a lot less oil. I don't recommend removing them as the only thing that fails are the little 3/32" lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold. These should be changed every 10 years or so.
Premix should be 40:1 but I like a little more oil at 32:1 as long as you aren't fouling plugs.
The seadoo oil injection system is extremely reliable and you will use a lot less oil. I don't recommend removing them as the only thing that fails are the little 3/32" lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold. These should be changed every 10 years or so.
On the SBT site, their motors come with instructions to go with pre-mix only.
If/When I do need to get my engine rebuilt, who would you recommend I go with? Is SBT not good?
Not saying SBT isn't fine but they are not the best either and their info isn't always good. They are really the only option for someone that can't rebuild and engine themselves and wants a warranty and an engine quick.
The only reason they say to get rid of the oil injection is because they don't know any better and it is one less thing that they have to worry about for giving you a free warranty engine. Seadoo is the only system that is super reliable so just as a generic answer SBT says get rid of any oil injection.
The only reason they say to get rid of the oil injection is because they don't know any better and it is one less thing that they have to worry about for giving you a free warranty engine. Seadoo is the only system that is super reliable so just as a generic answer SBT says get rid of any oil injection.
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