97 seadoo 800 gtx wont start help

[mikidymac]

so the reason I am doing it is because money and time.

Perfectly fine reason, I like to do all my own rebuilds but send the cylinders to Group K because I don't have the skill or equipment to bore them.

If you are going to keep the ski I suggest using OEM seals for the crank. I would also have the balancer and rotary shaft rebuilt.
Make sure you get Threebond 1211 sealant for the cases and the proper threadlock so you are ready to go.

 

[ReeseBlaisdell]

Alright so I know it has been awhile but does anybody know the specs for the clearance between the rotor and the rotor housing? I want to know the best tolerance because I am going to surface grind the intake housing. This is for a 97 seadoo gtx 800 (787 two carb engine). Thanks for your time.

 

[ReeseBlaisdell]

i have currently got 0.0346" clearance in between the rotor and housing.

 

[mikidymac]

Are you talking about the rotary disc clearance? If so you need to consult the manual as you have to grind the surface and the groove for it to be correct.

 

[ReeseBlaisdell]

i dont have the manual and yes i am grinding the outside lip where the seal goes, of the intake side to bring it closer

 

[GGuillot]

i dont have the manual and yes i am grinding the outside lip where the seal goes, of the intake side to bring it closer

Per the service manual, check it with the RV in, it should be between .010 - .014 in or .25 - .35 mm. If you do discover it out of spec, you need to machine the oring groove at the same time, same amount taken off.

I'd proceed with caution with RV cover machining, I'm 1 for 2 getting it right. Worked on the 97' GTX, and I thought I needed it done on the 96' GSX build but it was fine all along. My measurement was off doing the solder method because of flex from the RV cover when I torqued it down. My measurements were coming up .005 to .007 too high while it was perfectly fine and in spec. It was a $140 mistake I made, $100 for the machining job on the cover and $40 for a new RV valve and used replacement RV cover. I got lucky by only scoring the very center of the cases by the gear with the over machined RV cover, something I'm still pissed about doing.

If you can still see vertical machine lines in the cover and the cases aren't scored with a ridge at the edge, it's probably fine.

 

[ReeseBlaisdell]

thank you, so for my setup i've got the rv cover bolted down to a ground steel block on the carb side holding it perfectly flat (or as close as humanly possible) and then I had milled that block to be parallel to the o-ring grove and that then stops it from flexing and acts as a holding jig. using the mag chuck on the surface grinder to hold the block, I then ground the face flat and the o-ring grove flat with only .0002in of variation of parallel and flat to each other. my plan is to grind the o-ring grove down until I get into tolerance. and I also ground the rv and was wondering what the spec for that is? and here is a picture of my finish on the cover. in this picture I hadn't ground the o-ring grove yet

 

[GGuillot]

and I also ground the rv and was wondering what the spec for that is?

I haven't heard of anybody machining the RV itself. I don't remember the thickness spec I measured off hand, but for about $25 - $30 you can get a new one. I bought a few from WSM on ebay and they have worked out fine.

 

[ReeseBlaisdell]

I will probably just buy a new one then

 

[mikidymac]

There is nothing to machine on the RV itself as it is already thin stainless steel. You would just be making the clearance even worse. If it is in bad shape just replace it.