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97 GTX changing piston-need question answered

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trabich

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I bought a 1997 gtx from a neighbor pretty cheap. short story- After 2 minutes of idling the motor died. Would not fire back up. Checked compression and got 110 out of front cylinder and 0 out of rear. Pulled cylinders off and rear piston was definitely shot. Cylinders don't look too bad. I ordered two new over sized pistons w/rings. I went ahead and ordered all new gaskets, new exhaust valves (rear one had some nicks in it), and new needle bearings. I have a shop that is going to bore the cylinders to match the new pistons.

What I am needing to know if there is anything I need to do while I've got this thing torn down. Should I clean carbs? Do I need to change fuel line? I don't have much more money to put into it but I want to make sure she runs good. Any help would be appreciated
 
Clean the carbs really good and set the high and low settings back factory. Replace the grey fuel lines if the ski still has them. Clean the fuel selector valve really good. Change the jet pump oil and check for wear. Check wear ring and replace.

Carb cleaner 15.00
fuel lines & clamps 40.00
Jet pump oil 15.00
Wear Ring (e-bay) 30.00

Trouble free fun - priceless:cheers:
 
Thank you so much for the info. Where could I find out what the factory settings for the high and low needles on the carb? How do I know if the wear ring needs to be replaced.
 
When I started the restoration process on all my jet skis, I googled "Repair manuals for Sea Doo" along with the model and year. It sent me to this site and I could download any repair manual I needed for just a few bucks. Also at the top of this web page you can get repair manuals, as well. They will give you all the info that you need.
 
Thank you again. You have helped me out a lot. Someone had told me to run sea foam throgh the carbs to clean them out. Is that a good idea?
 
I am an old salt from the old school. I was taught that quality and short cuts do not mix. I don't know about sea foam, but I do know that carefully disassembling and throughly cleaning a carb along with cautious reassembly, replacing any worn parts is usually winning combination.

If a person does not have time to do it right, then when will they ever have time to do it over.

Look, you have time before your cylinders are ready. Just take your time and rebuild the cards along with the other things you plan to do. I guarantee you will do just fine.
 
That is the way I am looking at it. I'm very particular with all my toys (Birt bikes,atv's, and race car). I wanted to do everything I possibly can while I have room with the cylinders out. I still have to find a machine shop to bore out the cylinders for me. Any idea on how much borring usually costs. I have no idea. I just dont want to get hosed on price.

I went ahead and ordered the new wear ring today.
 
If you use these guys let me know what kind of work they do, as well as, turn around. I am thinking redoing both of my 94's top end done over the winter.

Also if you overbore your cylinders the new RAVES will have to be sized.

Good luck!!
 
After you download your repair manual go to the section on lubrication and it will show you how to bench test an oil pump, as well as, showing you how to adjust the linkage coming from the throttle. There will be two marks, one on pump and one on the linkage. These marks must line up at idle setting. The manual will also show you how to prime the pump.

Usually oil pumps don't go bad. What it sounds like went wrong with your ski is one cylinder "leaned out." probably from clogged filters in the carbs...mostly fuel delivery problems in general.

After you get Her rebuilt, premix the first tank to insure good lubrication for the break in period. Good luck :cheers:
 
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