Rabid
Active Member
Do you have a copy of the bulletin?
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
97 GTX 787 / 6000rpm
- Thread starter Travlash
- Start date
- Status
Yes still having oil to rotary. I have stock air box on. I don’t know how they removed choke. I had a primer hooked up but removed it because it was trash. I also took the first rave valve off, the bellow came off on the top where the spring is. So i set it all back up. Cleaned it up. Checked again after a couple hour ride. Bellow is still together but a decent amount of oil in the whole set up.
I set everything to stock on the carbs
Jtamaro
Member
I remember also did the same on my last rebuild but it didn’t run at the top end. I leaned out a fraction and it made all the difference. The factory settings are a guide to start with(but I wouldn’t deviate too much from factory). I went an extra 1/8 and that’s all it took for it to start opening up
I am into the carbs now. Tested pop off. 45 psi in both. Changing it to 30. Will this help rpm or just starting
I set it to 35. Do you think this will help with RPM issue? One carb was at 43 and other was 21 lol. Now both 35
One carb was flooding rich the other was lean not getting enough fuel. Both ends of the spectrum. I think You'll notice the difference and if that doesn't fix it, you know what it isn't. 
35 should be fine. I increased both our skis carb pop-off in increments. Started at 23 then 25-27, then 30. Then 33. the 1997 had more of an issue with the transition than my 1996. When I put the black spring and the new mikuni needles and seats both ran much better. When I did the TSB on the 1997... it made a noticable difference. Good Luck.
35 should be fine. I increased both our skis carb pop-off in increments. Started at 23 then 25-27, then 30. Then 33. the 1997 had more of an issue with the transition than my 1996. When I put the black spring and the new mikuni needles and seats both ran much better. When I did the TSB on the 1997... it made a noticable difference. Good Luck. I know for a fact it will help my hard start
, and that alone is good enough for my peace of mind. I don’t know if it will help my 6k rpm issue, but i hope so. Because if it doesn’t i really don’t know what else to check. Water reg isn’t leaking. Raves are opening. Rectifier is fine. Mpem is fine.One carb was flooding rich the other was lean not getting enough fuel. Both ends of the spectrum. I think You'll notice the difference and if that doesn't fix it, you know what it isn't.
That and $2.00 might get you a cheap beer. LOL Don't give up.... Good Luck !
Jtamaro
Member
I’m not sure, perhaps both?
Jtamaro
Member
Good luck mate, let us know how you go
The 3 ports that open into the throat can be a problem with the transition. They are the reason I bought the ultrasonic cleaner. There should be 3 strong streams coming from the center of the carb. Low speed jet removed, low speed adjuster inserted just a tad and lectra clean sprayed VIA plastic nozzle into the lowe speed jet hole. Open the throttle butterfly and verify. Wear safety glasses.
Last edited:
fatblockabody
Well-Known Member
This is the exact fix I started doing after messing with a couple for a weekend. Works great.
So many of those bushings are loose that is a great fix. Do you have an O-Ring size? Metric or Standard?
fatblockabody
Well-Known Member
No but I can look tonight when I get home from work. I bought a big box of different size nitrile o-ring's for racecar stuff a while ago and I just swapped them in until I found one that worked how I wanted it.
fatblockabody
Well-Known Member
9/16" x 3/32" (14.28mm x 2.38mm) worked for me, may need fatter depending on how bad it is
Last edited:
Update : pop off pressure didn’t help the rpm issue. But makes it smoother. I am completely stumped. I have about 6200 rpm at 45 mph max. Revs out of the water to 6850. Any thing else i should look for ??? Only other thing i noticed is the battery isn’t charging.
so i unplugged the rectifier to see if it would help RPM. Still doesn’t change it. So the battery isn’t charging but the rectifier is good (i replaced it this year) any other things i should investigate?
so i unplugged the rectifier to see if it would help RPM. Still doesn’t change it. So the battery isn’t charging but the rectifier is good (i replaced it this year) any other things i should investigate?
They'll always rev high out of water, so I wouldn't focus on that. Also, avoid revving it out of water as it can damage your carbon ring. The good news if you damage the carbon ring is that you won't have problems hitting the rev limiter.
If your battery isn't charging, you have a stator, rectifier, wiring issue or maybe a blown fuse. That can't be your RPM issue, though, as you disconnected the red wire.
The 1997 really needs the slotted raves as the rave passages are smaller than 1996. The problem was so bad they made a TSB about it. I hate to tell you to spend $400 on rave valves that may or may not fix your issue, but there's a good chance that's your problem. You say you can hear the raves opening... But I don't hear the raves at all on my 96 GTX. I just get a sudden surge of power from 4-5k RPM and the thing GOES. But maybe one of your raves isn't opening, or opening all the way.
It really sounds like you fixed the carb issue. You could do another spark plug test at WOT to confirm, but probably not necessary. You said you verified that at WOT the butterflies are full open, but I'd double check that.
You could need new spark plugs, wires, or caps, but I don't think that's likely your problem. That said, plugs and caps are cheap and easy to replace. If you do, inspect the ends of the wires and maybe cut a small amount back if you see any corrosion.
It could be a MPEM with a weird failure, but that seems unlikely.
The likely causes are water regulator, mixture/fuel, voltage regulator, and raves. Honestly, it sounds like you've ruled everything out except the raves. I know you say you hear them open, but I don't hear mine and again, maybe only one is opening or they're opening partway. Also you mentioned that the bellows came apart when you pulled them. You may need new bellows, as mine take quite a bit of force to separate and clean. Maybe there's an air leak in the bellows making them malfunction.
If your battery isn't charging, you have a stator, rectifier, wiring issue or maybe a blown fuse. That can't be your RPM issue, though, as you disconnected the red wire.
The 1997 really needs the slotted raves as the rave passages are smaller than 1996. The problem was so bad they made a TSB about it. I hate to tell you to spend $400 on rave valves that may or may not fix your issue, but there's a good chance that's your problem. You say you can hear the raves opening... But I don't hear the raves at all on my 96 GTX. I just get a sudden surge of power from 4-5k RPM and the thing GOES. But maybe one of your raves isn't opening, or opening all the way.
It really sounds like you fixed the carb issue. You could do another spark plug test at WOT to confirm, but probably not necessary. You said you verified that at WOT the butterflies are full open, but I'd double check that.
You could need new spark plugs, wires, or caps, but I don't think that's likely your problem. That said, plugs and caps are cheap and easy to replace. If you do, inspect the ends of the wires and maybe cut a small amount back if you see any corrosion.
It could be a MPEM with a weird failure, but that seems unlikely.
The likely causes are water regulator, mixture/fuel, voltage regulator, and raves. Honestly, it sounds like you've ruled everything out except the raves. I know you say you hear them open, but I don't hear mine and again, maybe only one is opening or they're opening partway. Also you mentioned that the bellows came apart when you pulled them. You may need new bellows, as mine take quite a bit of force to separate and clean. Maybe there's an air leak in the bellows making them malfunction.
- Status
