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97 gsx won’t rev past 5k

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Old dog 68

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I rebuilt my carbs with back to stock kits from osd pop off at 37 now she won’t rev past 5k plugs are wet and chocolate after 20 minutes or so running. Starts and idles great goes for on 0rpm to 4500 as it should then just falls apart. Has new rectifier also from osd(pulled plug with red/black wires no change). Low speed 1.5 turns and high speed .25 turns on pto side
Any ideas
 
I’ve rebuilt raves with new style housings. Gonn pop holes in covers tomorrow and verify they are opening. When it gets to 35-400 rpm it feels as though it’s missing or loading up. Probably gonna pull carbs off again and double check things. Thanks for the response
 
When you rebuild the carbs did you verify the arm for the needle and seat is absolutely flush with the carb body?
 
I like to use a razor blade and put the edge across where the red line is it should be even. If it is above it can open the needle and seat63a652f1fbf44d38b004637e56ac3392.jpg
 
There are 4 holes in the carbuetor barrel. One larger and 3 smaller ones. The 3 very small holes have to be clear with nice streams flowing from them, Unless you are familiar with this you will miss them. These holes not being clear will affect the transition in the range your are having problems.

I haven't looked at the Carb thread in a long time but I think that item should be covered. For instance, you have to install the low speed needle with the low speed jet removed. I use Brake-Kleen but I spray into the low speed jet hole with the small red hose connected to the brake-kleen. Open the butterfly and look down the throat of the carb. at the top you'll 3 three streams and also liquid coming out of a fourth on the left side at the top as well. All those holes need to be clear. Good Luck
 
Yes, those small holes are tough to see and need to be clean. I never saw them until I read the carb thread, eyes aren't that good.
 
Yes, those small holes are tough to see and need to be clean. I never saw them until I read the carb thread, eyes aren't that good.
My wife's ski 1997 GTX.... 38mph unless the impeller unloaded then it got up to speed. Would not transition. When I fixed that problem her ski walked right on by my 1996 GTX. LOL She loves it. ha ha
 
I blew through and sprayed carb cleaner saw holes spray. I’m wondering if the used parts I got to replace rave housing could be worn out. I may bite the bullet and get new from osd. Thanks for all the input gonna pull carbs some time this week after putting old rave housings back on as it ran good with them aside from a small flat spot.
 
I bought new rave valve housings and in a few hours of riding the bore size of the new housing was as large as the ones I replaced. I selected the "less worn"from my pile. I had some measurements on the new verses old as, like you I was exploring every possibility. one problem I did have, the rave gasket pinched the rave valve and it didn't move easily. It got stuck and burnt the rave piston. The rave on the mag cylinder which is difficult to get in position was the one I had problems with. I fought these skis tooth and nail. I had 2 GTXs so what I did to one I did to the other. Both responded exactly the same so it was cool. Pulling the carbs 4 extra times wasn't cool but it taught me some stuff. These engines really do like 36 psi pop off. Post the follow ups. Good Luck !!
 
I will post all follow ups. Unfortunately I won’t have a chance to get it in the water till next Saturday. In the meantime I’m going to do one thing at a time starting with old rave housings and I’m going to cut a viewing hole into rave caps. I’ll probably take my calipers and measure all my rave housings.
 
I'll measure mine as well and remember the sizes but I'll verify before posting. I kept the housings I bought (Aftermarket) and planned on installing a bronze bushing in the aluminum but didn't need to. Like I mentioned, I chased these issues for a time. My wife's 1997 when I upgraded to slotted rave valves and swapped the bodies for those designated, her ski launched so much better. I put those same valves on mine with no change at all. :D

If anyone has worked on the RFI engine, the rave valve slots are SO MUCH TIGHTER that the carb version.
 
It was the Bay Area power sports bellows and rave bodies. Put the old stock rave bodies with the bypass holes and stock rave bellows back on and BAM! Running like a raped ape. A little adjust of the high speed on the pto side and both low speed and I’m consistently getting 7000-7050 rpm’s now it runs as good as it looks. And a pic of captai Cody just because
 

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